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mcpwilk

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Everything posted by mcpwilk

  1. Planking above the wale was carvel as shown in the 'Anatomy of the Ship' book on the cutter Alert. Best wishes, Mike
  2. Looking very good so far. I built my cutter with a clinker hull out of basswood (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/gallery/album/668-hm-cutter-andromeda/). Personally I find clinker building easier than carvel. Good luck with your build. Happy modelling, Mike
  3. Very nicely done. If you soak the flag in water it will hang better, rather than stick out. Mike
  4. I use thin black paper between the planks to give the tarred oakum effect. Mike
  5. Beautiful to date. I find a clinker hull easier to plank than a carvel one.... Mike
  6. "Well then here's for you in Australia. " Why the Kiwi flag, not the Aussie one?! Mike
  7. "It's easy for Chuck with his new laser cutter" Superb work so far. I have convential modeller's bench and fret saws, but would like to get my hands on a laser cutter! Mike
  8. Good luck with this one. I find clinker planking easier than carvel, so hopefully will you. Happy New Year, Mike
  9. Awe inspiring - a true work of art. Happy New Year, Mike
  10. A very nice build. She should fly a red ensign rather than a Union Flag at the stern (see GB03, http://www.becc.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d31.html).Flags can be made to hang more naturally if you soak them in water and bend them to the required shape. Once dry they should keep the natural hang of the flag. Happy New Year, Mike
  11. A very nice looking model. It is very easy to make things overscale. I would suggest that you use much finer thread for the rigging in future. Some modellers put a scale figure on their models at different stages during the build. I think an imaginary figure is also a good idea when it comes to size of ribs, tiller, oar handles, 'ropes' etc. happy modelling, Mike
  12. Just remember when you are working out what thickness of wood to use that you will be rubbing down the hull and deck to get a smooth finish and that the original planks would have been produced with an adze and not machined. The width of the planks is more critical for scale, and this is down to the modeller if sheet wood is bought. I'm interested that your cutter is carvel built, I've always found clinker easier.... Mike
  13. That mizzen gaff ought to be at a higher angle. Mike
  14. Interesting that you chose a carvel hull, I prefer clinker..... I also display my finished boats/ships in a glass case mounted over a mirror, and I would agree that a natural wood finish shows off the workmanship better than a painted one. Mike
  15. Beautifully done. I always mount my ships/boats over a mirror in their cases. Mike
  16. You have been doing this beautifully. I have the same kit and am also hoping to use wood for the decks. However you have the shift of butts only one plank apart on your decks. They shoud be three or four planks apart on Victory. I think this is clearly shown in the Anatomy of the Ship volume of the Victory and on http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/thread2959-Notes--False-Butts-on-a-Planking-.html Best wishes, Mike
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