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Everything posted by mcpwilk
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Planking above the wale was carvel as shown in the 'Anatomy of the Ship' book on the cutter Alert. Best wishes, Mike
- 188 replies
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Looking very good so far. I built my cutter with a clinker hull out of basswood (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/gallery/album/668-hm-cutter-andromeda/). Personally I find clinker building easier than carvel. Good luck with your build. Happy modelling, Mike
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Will you clinker build the hull like cutters of the period? Mike
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Very nicely done. If you soak the flag in water it will hang better, rather than stick out. Mike
- 57 replies
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- bluenose ii
- artesania latina
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I use thin black paper between the planks to give the tarred oakum effect. Mike
- 153 replies
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- swift
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HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
mcpwilk replied to Jaekon Lee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Superbly done so far. Mike -
HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
mcpwilk replied to Jaekon Lee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful to date. I find a clinker hull easier to plank than a carvel one.... Mike -
"Well then here's for you in Australia. " Why the Kiwi flag, not the Aussie one?! Mike
- 366 replies
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
mcpwilk replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Awe inspiring - a true work of art. Happy New Year, Mike- 881 replies
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- royal caroline
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A very nice build. She should fly a red ensign rather than a Union Flag at the stern (see GB03, http://www.becc.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d31.html).Flags can be made to hang more naturally if you soak them in water and bend them to the required shape. Once dry they should keep the natural hang of the flag. Happy New Year, Mike
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Longboat by Rao A.L.G. - FINISHED
mcpwilk replied to Rao A.L.G.'s topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
A very nice looking model. It is very easy to make things overscale. I would suggest that you use much finer thread for the rigging in future. Some modellers put a scale figure on their models at different stages during the build. I think an imaginary figure is also a good idea when it comes to size of ribs, tiller, oar handles, 'ropes' etc. happy modelling, Mike -
Just remember when you are working out what thickness of wood to use that you will be rubbing down the hull and deck to get a smooth finish and that the original planks would have been produced with an adze and not machined. The width of the planks is more critical for scale, and this is down to the modeller if sheet wood is bought. I'm interested that your cutter is carvel built, I've always found clinker easier.... Mike
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- cheerful
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That mizzen gaff ought to be at a higher angle. Mike
- 23 replies
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Interesting that you chose a carvel hull, I prefer clinker..... I also display my finished boats/ships in a glass case mounted over a mirror, and I would agree that a natural wood finish shows off the workmanship better than a painted one. Mike
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Beautifully done. I always mount my ships/boats over a mirror in their cases. Mike
- 753 replies
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You have been doing this beautifully. I have the same kit and am also hoping to use wood for the decks. However you have the shift of butts only one plank apart on your decks. They shoud be three or four planks apart on Victory. I think this is clearly shown in the Anatomy of the Ship volume of the Victory and on http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/thread2959-Notes--False-Butts-on-a-Planking-.html Best wishes, Mike
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