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AntonyUK

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Everything posted by AntonyUK

  1. Hi Udo. Any updates on this amazing build. I am getting withdrawal symptoms Regards Antony.
  2. Hi. They send my planks in 1 mtr lengths in a strong tube as Mike discribed. If you live in the UK it's always full length. If its a export they will cut it into half mtr lengths to cut postage costs ...Unless you pay the extra for large item shipping. That's the way I understand it. Regards Antony.
  3. Hi John. Just found this while browsing In AbeBooks.co.uk. http://www.abebooks.co.uk/?cm_sp=TopNav-_-Results-_-Logo Modelling Tudor Ships R K Battson Published by Model & Allied Publications, 1979 ISBN 10: 0852426925 / ISBN 13: 9780852426920 It might be of some use to you. I have no idea on the contents. Regards Antony.
  4. Hello Cristiano. I have just read your build log through start to finish. You have a big undertaking that requires a lot of different skills.. And you have them all Your approach is very through and precise. You give the name "Kitbashing" a whole new meaning Will follow the rest of the build with great interest. Regards Antony.
  5. Hi Richard. I would not recommend using the film on a curved hull. Very little stretch. You can spray on a film. Link below. http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2002/11/stuff_eng_tech_sea_water.htm I have NOT tested this but it should be fine. Regards Antony.
  6. Hi Divarty. Thanks for your kind comments I must finish this soon as I now have two ships in dry dock. Just got to cast the rest of the cannons. And install all the bits onto the different decks. Make a stand and case and it's done.. Sounds easy in words doesn't it Starting after the half term break. Thanks for looking in. Antony.
  7. Hi Kevin. Have you closer to home ? Timbersource Ltd, Marston Park, Tytherington, Frome, Somerset BA11 5BS http://www.timbersource.co.uk/ Hint.. Go there and have a chat to them. They will cut timber down to size and there range is quite good. Regards Antony.
  8. Hi ChristIan Lookin very good. In your first post " . Next step was the keel. Goodwin shows for the pass between keel and lower apron a solution which I could not find on any original cutter drawings." This had me looking into why Goodwin drew it like this... A local shipwright informed me that it use is " a part of the bow/keel joint that was phrone to being damaged while in shallow waters. This area is easy replaced. Antony.
  9. Hi. Found this while looking at sanders. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-large-drum-sanders?sel=500185 It's made by Jet tools. Should be available throughout the globe. Going to order one to look at the quality and uses. Regards Antony.
  10. Hi Chuck. WOW that's one nice Windlass. That's one of my things I have yet to overcome with my cutter. Taking the girls out to the cinema . It's what a dad does Regards Antony.
  11. Hi Mike. Yea door sales people .. I will not answer the door to them. This is a very nice build. How long has it taken you up to this stage ? Regards Antony.
  12. Hi Markus. Very intresing mods. I have done the splitter mode on my saw. For use on the TCT blade only. But I find this very useful when cutting very thin strips The Splitter should only be the same thickness as the blade Kerf.. But even this is not needed if you feed in the timber straight. I can see that this topic might be usefull to Jim. Regards Antony.
  13. Hi. Will be nice to see another cross section on MSW. The Mary Rose will a very nice model. Got to see this one being built. Regards Antony.
  14. Hi Chuck. Making some real progress with this build. I must start my build log on my Cutter. Regards Antony.
  15. Hi Chuck. That's a tidy workshop that's full of interesting bits ... Not Crap. I wish I has access to a large work area like yours. I bet more than 80% of the modellers here would like the space Regards Antony.
  16. Hi Christian. Is this what you are referring to ?. http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/BuildingAlert.pdf This is a link that is already posted on your build. Looking forward to you continuing this build.. Regards Antony.
  17. Hi Boyd. We can all live without luxury things.. But it's the best out there.. So much so I am considering in investing in a Thickness sander from Jim. I use a much larger saw to rip my timber into manageable bits then into the Byrnes saw to finished size. Most of the time I need only very light sanding as the finish is soooo good. Regards Antony.
  18. Hi. My story of a solid hull. Me at the time was at the tender age of 10.. Doing my normal thing in the morning befor school I would look around our local coves for any driftwood that might have come in during the night. In doing this one day I found a hull of a ship made out of solid wood. I picked it up as it was the only thing that got washed in that night. One of the locals was a model ship builder and spotted me walking through the village with it and called me over. This turned out to be a very good carving that he insisted that I should continue building it. With his help this model was completed and is now on display in the local pob. Solid hulls are not easy and are used by masters for model ship building. The hull was just over 27 inches long and had all the decks shaped ready. This was my start into this hobby. Regards Antony.
  19. Hi Chuck. Been waiting for this one Will follow this build with great interest. All the best. Regards Antony.
  20. Hello Magnus. This is just amazing .. Never thought that something could be nicely done. YOU are just Amazing. Regards Antony.
  21. Hi GTM. Found this in The Arming and fitting of English Ships of Ware 1600 - 1815 Looks like they just end on a ring bolt. Regards Antony.
  22. Hi. Was shown a book on lofting today. It's the best I have seen and it's got a lot of diagrams in throughout. LOFTING By Jack Reeman. Published by Normanston Publishing, Lowestoft, Suffolk, 1988 ISBN 10: 0952527804 / ISBN 13: 9780952527800 It's intended at introducing shipwrights into lofting. Regards Antony.
  23. Hi Decoyman. That is some very interesting news. The Museum here in Exmouth will really interested as this is where the ship was built. Regards Antony.
  24. Hi. Many thanks for your encouraging Sometimes I need it. As you can see we have started the rigging. We started by adding the standing rigging then we added the rat lines. This is the test run I made a jig for the spacing of the art lines. Then we painted pva glue onto the lines and placed the jig with the ropes spaced out. This is what they looked like after removing the jig. Then we started on making the sails. We used a piece of scrap MDF board and placed a copy of the plans onto it. Then we covered it in Cling Film (Cooking Film). Then the cloth was stretched evenly over the plans. Then drawing pins were used to hold the cord taunt while pva glue was brushed onto the cord and the outer edge of the sail. This is how it looked after removing the drawing pins. Just cut out rough then trimmed with sharp scissors. Will add the sails to the ship after marking the stitching and attaching them to the yards. Thanks for following my build. Alex S. Posted using Antony's Computer...
  25. Hi E&T. As always I am astonished on your research and interpretation of the subject. I think you should do a white paper on this (book) All the best Regards Antony.
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