Fright
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Everything posted by Fright
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Here are two of the places where the hull did not align together properly. First picture also shows the difference in match up the keel of the ship. I used CA glue to bind the two hull pieces together. I then ran a bead of Testors tube glue all along the inside seam of hull to strengthen the seal so it will not open up when I drill to install wiring for lights. -
Yves - this is my 2nd Lindberg kit and I'm finding out that some of the parts do not align up. The hull seam at some points were almost 1/16" off and the openings for the anchor on the bow, as well as the opening for the propeller, did not line up. I need to do a bit of filling and sanding along the seam of the keel to get it smooth. As for the propeller opening, I used putty to seal the hole up. I will just drill a proper size hole when the time comes. I've looked up a couple of builds on this model and I noticed that both had the black waterline under the first rub rail, but both are missing the second rub rail that should be at the bottom of the black water line. NOTE: Both of the builds are pretty spectacular and I hope mine will fair as well. The kit that I have has what looks like a rub rail that continues around the entire hull. On the real ship, it appears to be a very faint line. The NANTUCKET letters go right above this line. The next rub rail is the line that runs along the top of the black water line. The next extending line on the kit is at the very bottom of hull which I believe helps stabilize the ship in the water. So, I will try my hand with some styrene strips to duplicate the second rub rail that runs directly underneath the waterline strip. Thanks for taking the time to respond and give me your feedback on Lindberg kits. I fairly new at modeling but compared to the Revell kit that I built, I can see a big difference in the quality of the molding. Cheers! This is where it appears to show that the black strip runs between two 'rub rails'. Am I missing something or am I over reaching on what I am seeing?
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el cid @ Keith - many thanks for answering and it did not occur to me that they could be protective guards for hull. I really dislike the fact that Lindberg makes no reference on their plans as to what each part is called. Really makes it confusing for someone who has little or no knowledge of what each item is that is going on the vessel! I will try to add on the missing bumper guard with some styrene strips. Thanks again for your help!
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On working on this kit's hull, I noticed a discrepancy between the extended horizontal ridge/line(s)? that run along the upper portion of the hull. I tried to look up what these are called and could not find my answer. On the real hull, there are two of these horizontal 'ridges' in which the black waterline (plimsoll?) is painted in between from bow to stern. On the model, there is only one of these extended 'ridges'. Can someone help with the name of these ridges/strips? The directions that came with this kit does not name any of the parts - everything is by numbers only and no written markings. I know this is economical for the company when it comes to printing but this does not provide anyone, especially beginners, with the knowledge as to what equipment was used on the ship. Very disappointing! Here is a picture of the actual ship's hull: And this is a picture of the kit's hull: I will try to duplicate this 'missing' strip with some styrene strips.
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After watching a program on Youtube about the disaster in 1934 where the White Star RMS Olympic cut in half and sank the Nantucket lightship, I started to look up the history of lightships. I then stumbled across someone's post of their model build of this same ship. I had never heard about these ships but I found the history and looks of them fascinating, and so I purchased this kit from Hobbylinc. On another site, I asked 'what year' did this kit represent? A gentleman by the name of Ron J, who is on the BOD for the Nantucket lightship, was kind enough to respond and said this was prior to it's retro-fit in 1960. So that gave me a start to research what colors were used on this vessel at that time. As of 1939, the USCG took charge of all lightships and, by 1941, colors were pretty much standardized (except lightship Huron, who's hull was black). Colors were: red hull with white lettering, white superstructure and buff (also known as spar) color stack, mast, lantern galleries and ventilators. So I will try to work with this color scheme instead of color scheme shown on box lid. I am planning to try to incorporate some lighting into this ship. By 'try', I mean to say that my electrical knowledge is Cro-Magnon basic! But again, a nice gentleman, who goes by the name of RCBoater, shared some valuable information about using a 360 LED sold by www.superbrightLEDs.com and a controller that simulates a lighthouse beacon, sold by http://www.bakatronics.com.
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Welcome aboard and your work on those figures are wonderful! Great work!
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Gary - your detailing is outstanding. Thank you for mentioning your use of copper tape on hinges. The 'light bulb" switch kicked in for me LOL I'll use this for fine detail work instead of cuttings from copper strip. Thanks again!
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- america
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Congratulations on the completion of your Bluenose. She's a beaut !!!!
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Really enjoying your work and photos on this project! Many thanks for sharing this one
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- schooner
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MrBlueJacket - can you kindly tell me where you found this deck sheeting? I'd like to use this on an up-coming model. Many thanks!
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- schooner
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I believe that the black base compliments the wood used in your stand and boat and, when looking at your boat from above, helps to dissolve into the background. What a wonderful finish for a beautiful build.
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- pinnace
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Absolutely amazing work!!! I struggle with making a paper hat - I cannot imagine the time and skills involved on a project like this. Outstanding!
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Welcome aboard !!!
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Welcome JD to MSW !!!
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POPEYE - I really enjoy watching these 'little' boats get built. Your T78 Norten had so much character to her. As for your starboard post not holding, I kept having the same issue with my main boom crutch 'popping' off, so I drilled a fine hole into the bottom of the crutch; inserted a small pin; then glued it into the deck to help give it more support. (look at me, like I know what I'm doing LOL). I'm positive you already have all of your bases covered! This is going to be another one of your beauties!!! Thanks again for your kind words along the path - Cheers
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- krabbenkutter
- authentic models
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Welcome to MSW !!!
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Welcome to the group and a warm welcome!
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Welcome to the group!!!
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Excellent work with detail and your craftsmanship!!! I have really enjoyed your posts and builds. Thanks for sharing this with everyone
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Really a nice job on cutting out the ports! Your kit is shaping up nicely!!!
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