Baker

13 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Your progress is impressive ... This is bound to come out well.

thank you,  with time and patience this will one day become a model 

13 hours ago, 72Nova said:

Love all your work Patrick and this will turn out to be another gem!. I wouldn't have the heart to burn cherry wood, glad to see you're making great use of it👍

 

Michael D.

Thanks, this is verry good wood for model making. Not too hard, not too soft, and bends fairly easily

8 hours ago, md1400cs said:

Patrick --- Just catching up - as always your research is top notch 👏

 

Regards,

Thank you Michael

6 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Nice work and good looking wood.   Are you saving the small off cuts?  If so, to use in the fireplace, soak in water for several hours and then toss them on once the fire starts making the red coals.   You'll get a very nice smell.

Good idea
But I'm going to recycle all of this nice wood.

A ecologically built ship model 😉 and all other wood into the stove  😇.

Thanks for the comments, much appreciated 👍

Determine the position of the lower wale with the laser.
The dimensions found on the sections are plotted on the hull. The laser is very useful for this purpose.

The "dummy" wale in place

With this dummy as example a line is drawn in pencil where the real wale comes later

Half a day of free time and good weather
and cherry firewood becomes cherry shipmodel wood

A first batch of different thicknesses

and a batch wood for planks, wales and keel.

Now i have to make the complex keel out of 3 pieces, each with different shapes and thicknesses 

Thanks for following

Indeed, 

Great work 👍

Oops.

as a resident of the eu i am not allowed to view this

I think wood is better than plastic for ships with a wooden hull. Although some of us can do amazing things painting plastic models.

Building a wooden hull is more difficult than a plastic one.  But once past this point, the rest isn't much harder than a plastic model. 

And, wood or plastic, rigging takes the same amount of time.

13 hours ago, Jeff T said:

The sanding job looks very smooth and precise.  How did you preserve the exact curves of the bulkheads when sanding down the filler blocks on each side of them (i.e. how did you avoid also sanding the bulkheads down at the same time)?

Thanks.

It is best to give the bulkheads a dark color. 

Then it is sanding off the excess material, except for the parts in the dark color. And regularly testing with a plank until the shape of the hull is correct

The rest is practice, experience and "fingerspitzengefühl" 

10 hours ago, Ondras71 said:

The model is ready for the competition in Poland..

First prize 😉 👍

A very nice model Ondras 

In the meantime, i have looked at where and how wales planks keel etc.. come.
Planks (oak) in the lower part of the hull were 10 cm thick. Respect to the builders 500 years ago for getting this done

The position of the wales and decks on section 1 3 5 6 8 and 10

The stern has also been studied.  Although not proven but also not disapproved. two stern chasers will be provided

to be continued, thanks for following

Fillerblocks 

All filler blocks are glued

Sand evenly with the angle grinder 😇

After a few minutes 

Dust, dust, dust.

Never do this indoors 😷😉

The final sanding was done by hand. 

The base for the hull is ready. With all the extra plywood and filler blocks, this is a solid base that will not warp later.

What is already noticeable is the pointed shape of the bow. I did not expect this at all from a carrack and certainly not from one of this size

Fantastic work, well done!

Nice work and good that you are having fun with this model.
But .
These don't go over the mast top but under it. 

the description is "a la billings"...
mast : 26 pieces...

if I remember correctly.

First impression.

Pieces with this shape are intended for the lower parts of the fore and main mast.
so, you should have 2 like this.
otherwise you may have one too many.

I fill the open spaces between the bulkheads with fillerblocks when I make a scratch model.
The reason is (was) that I did not have a correct frame drawing.
Due to the thickness of the filler blocks, there is a lot of margin for sanding errors here and there.
The first coarse sanding is then done with the vertical sanding disc (Goes quickly and without much effort).

I will not do this with a kit model with 2 layers of planking, only a few at the bow and stern.

An example from a great modeler 

The French text translated into Dutch

Onder de elementen wordt genoemd "een kleine brajart" van 20 voet lang, 4 inch in diameter en 6 inch in toon. Ik veronderstel dat dit mastelement onder een naam die ik niet kende een luchtboog is die het mogelijk maakt een fok te vestigen, zijdelings met de wind mee of met volle reikwijdte en bij goed weer.

Fok in English = fore sail 

It can be a curved yard for the fore sail (20 feet long 4 inch in diameter and a curve from 6 inch) 
To be able to make full use of the fore sail in good weather.

There is no guarantee that this is the answer 😇😉

Now that the bulkheads have approximately the right shape, it is time to add the extra supports between them

Then the bulkheads and the supports are chamfered 

now my favourite part, fillerblocks

These will be installed in the hull part below the cannon deck

Number 1 in place 

Thanks for following

Great work 

All the extra details bring more life to this kit

Good luck and enjoy 😉