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Posts posted by Baker
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2 hours ago, LCdr Dave said:
Patrick, if you haven’t, maybe you should.
So…..I won’t be wrapping the rope but how did you actually go about tying the deadeye in?BTW, I really like your hole pattern
Dave
When an old men makes a drawing on a smartphone ...🤣
Bleu = seize
Kirill is more professional 😉
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1 hour ago, LCdr Dave said:
according to Baker
have I written a book? 😉
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Scratch modeling is fun. And you are doing a very good job.
And yes, those little life boats are actually a model in themselves. I always enjoy following the construction of one of these, but starting building one myself...🤔 😉
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21 hours ago, druxey said:
Threaded rods are a much better option! And I don't recall that the original ship had permanent clamps....
25 minutes ago, Veszett Roka said:Thats a boomer
I think a few minutes how would i recover the clamp
Good news. The clamp has been surgically removed and repaired.
Model and clamp are doing well after this medical surgery.
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- AgesOfSail, Ronald-V and GrandpaPhil
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Thank you for the nice comments.
In the meantime, I've had a moment where you say to yourself "kieke" Flemish for "chicken".A fun way to say stupid 🤣
The plank is clamped and the clamp is now blockedAnd the iron wire, which kept the sides of the rear castle at the right width, and on which I have already cut my fingers a few times. has been replaced by a pair of threaded rods.
Safety first at the shipyard 👍 -
6 minutes ago, Scottish Guy said:
This is a piece of art what he archived there but sometimes I ask myself, should it really look like that? Did the real ships and boats really look that acurate and neat or were they just work items and no one spent so much attention to the details as we do in our models?
Don´t get me wrong here, I really like the build he did, I like this build here and I like being as neat, acurate and perfect as my skills allow me but sometimes I really ask myself if this would be authentic? Just buy a new car, even Mercedes or Rolls Royce have a clearance between their adjacent parts which is not always acurate (especiall Mercedes recently has massive quality issues with that) and that with computers and quality control mechanisms in place which definitely not existed in the early 20th century and definitely not earlier.
My humble 2c to this topic...
Micha
His model participates in competitions, the aim is to follow the plans you have as faithfully as possible.
He succeeds well in this and has already won several prizes.No one knows whether the model is completely historically correct, no detailed construction drawings were made during the era of 16th century period.
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Maybe you can find some build info here,
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With the beam for the swivels on the port side also installed and the frames made thinner, time to continue working on the transom.
The clinker planking that was previously installed has been removed. And the intention is to install two stern chasers here, the openings of the swivels will then remain empty.Applying the same number of cannons as the Anthony drawing is not feasible. A nice drawing to show to a king, but not a practical design in reality.
Several attempts...
And after three attempts it became this.
Finish the holes for the swivels with a beam on top
First i make grooves. This is more work, but positioning the beam correctly is much easier.
And above this beam back to clinker planking. This will provide more strength when the frames are made thinner later.

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On 6/11/2024 at 10:01 AM, Egilman said:
A tank appears on the battlefield today it's usually a pile of junk in a matter of a few minutes...
Unless it's an Abrams or a Leopard
If you drive it into a mine field, and the tracks "fly in the air". Then it does not matter which model of tank you are in.
You are, as they so aptly say in English,a sitting duck. 😪
- Old Collingwood, CDW, Jack12477 and 3 others
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Great work.
Amazing what you do on this small scale
- Old Collingwood, mikegr, Canute and 2 others
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A very nice diorama, Congrats
- mtaylor, Old Collingwood, Jack12477 and 4 others
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And good luck
- mtaylor, Scottish Guy and Keith Black
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8 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:
You have a deft touch with the chisel (must be quite sharp) used thusly ... Hats off to your courage ! Said the cowardly Lion, "What makes a King out of a slave? - Courage. What makes the flag on the mast to wave? - Courage. ... What makes the Hottentots so hot? Who put the ape in apricot? What do they got that I ain't got? ... Courage. - You can say that again."
wow.
An comment with so much poetry gets not one, but three smileys
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All wales on the clinker planking are installed.
On the starboard side a beam has been simulated where the swivel cannons will later be placed
And the thinning of the frames has begun
First a pencil line.
Then the more "heavy tools", used carefully of course.
One side is from 6 to 5 mm, the intention is to later make the frames even thinner above the beam of the swivels to 4 or, if possible, 3 mm
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You're doing very well. And it is very nice to follow.
I would only attach the backstays of the fore and main mast more forward, like on the mizzen mast.
If you tie them so far back they can get in the way of later rigging. -
First of all, I have little or no knowledge of ships from this period.
But, the stones of the mosaic all seem to be the same size.
So the poor guy who placed the mosaic has little room to make something as small as the stock taper.
There is also a chance that he knew more about laying mosaics than about ships.
I wouldn't rely on just this mosaic as a basis for your anchor. -

Golden Hind 1578 by kirill4 - Airfix - 1:72 - PLASTIC - conversion to 406 ton Elizabethan galleon in 1:100 scale
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Posted
So it will be ready on my 75th birthday 😉
This will be great to follow 👍.