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Captain Slog

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  1. Hi Ken, sorry to clutter up your log but Greg if you look here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2745-pt-iii-shopping-for-card-models/for where to purchase kits. Also Chris (ccoyle) has a whole series of threads on building card models in the card section of this forum. cheers Slog
  2. Hi Chris, Just catching up on some logs. Your planking is coming along. I hated doing the second layer on mine. With regards to planks, can't really help on actual widths but I remember reading somewhere that they never cut them more than half the width. Includes deck planks also..but I may be wrong. Cheers Slog
  3. I agree 100%, but you are obviously missing the point of my counter argument, so will leave it there. Enjoy your modelling and weather as much or as little as you think appropriate and it will still be welcome on this site and enjoyed by many. Cheers Slog
  4. Correct there is room for both but it comes to subject matter. In the scratch section there is a guy who builds contemporary fishing vessels and he weathers them superbly. The praise he gets for it is immense. He is not looked down on because he weathered his models. They look like the real old beat up thing. They don't look poorly done they look real. Why? In my opinion because they are steel vessels where rust and paint damage can be replicated realistically. This forum is more directed to wood models of wooden sailing ships. Built as nice and sharp and clean as possible. Why? because again in my opinion making a wooden ship from wood can easily look like poor workmanship although there are good examples on this site. If there were more steel ship builders then more weathering would take place I guess. Metal cars and military vehicles in larger scales take weathering far more easily in my opinion. For museums, they do have a choice as I would imagine they commission ships models to be built. Fact that most or all are 'clean' suggests they want them that way. With regards to real weathering I visited the local harbour where the Dufyken (spelling) was moored and a couple of workmen were on it. What a mess, it looked decrepit and falling apart. This is probably after only one season of sailing as well. To replicate that most viewers would think it should be thrown on the fire.
  5. My 2 cents and not having a go, but this and a handful of other topics come and go like the rising and setting of the Sun. If you had performed a search this same question would come up at least 3 times I can remember. And generally concludes with "its your ship, build it how you want to' You must be confusing MSW with some other site because this in general is far from the truth. My usual response to this question is that in my opinion making a ship look weathered and realistic runs the risk of looking more like poor workmanship, might be due to the scales or subject, don't know. Until the next time. Slog
  6. Hi Greg, Enjoying following this build. Got an observation though, looking at the 3rd photo in post #36 with your brass prop shaft, they appear to splay outboard at an awkward angle. I would imagine they would be closer in line with the 'hump' they exit from. I am not an expert just looks weird unless they used universal joints! Cheers Slog
  7. Hi Dashicat, Nice to see another Caldercraft Endeavour. Using a compass is a good idea. I messed up here and my wales are 1 plank width too low, which I didn't notice until it was time to mark the waterline for the white stuff. Bow filler blocks are a must for the bluff bow, it will be difficult to get a nice round curve without them as the planks want to go straight across the gap of the bulkheads. Cheers Slog
  8. I had this one and a couple of her sister ships on my wish list to build. David, as I mentioned above these are available in 1:200 scale card models along with several Russian and Japanese ones of the same era. They certainly have a certain appeal to them. Cheers Slog
  9. I love these oddball funky looking pre-dreadnoughts. There is a 1:200 scale card model of this available. Cheers Slog
  10. Hi, I'm with Paul on this one. I have always uploaded all my photos in one hit and then just insert them where ever I want and in what ever order I choose. Usually I have a speil of what the photo is showing, insert the photo and then the next speil and next photo etc. I don't understand how you can upload photos out of order? Cheers Slog Edit: sorry forgot to mention your progress is looking really great, nice work.
  11. Thanks for bringing his work to our attention. Here is the YouTube video for the hummingbird above. Very impressive. Cheers Slog
  12. Hi Andrew, You first planking bands look nice and flowing, curving in the right places especially shown in the first photo but before progressing to far you might want to go and correct the 2 individual planks where it appears that they are concave between the bulkheads around the midships area. If the second layer of planking follows these you are going to have hollow spots or if you get the second planking to bridge the concave areas they won't be secured down properly and might be springy. Just an observation. Cheers Slog
  13. I wish I had done this on my build. Will make stepping the mast spot on instead of spending time trying to line it up plumb. Cheers Slog
  14. Thanks Ron, been in the new place for 3 weeks now but modelling stuff still boxed up until I can sort out work table/s. The house build was a comedy of errors on the builders part but as usual lessons for next time, if there is one! Cheers Slog
  15. Hi Bob, I don't think its been raised but I would double check buying the additional brass photo-etch set. As far as I am aware the kit will come with the required photo-etch as standard and all you may be doing is buying an additional duplicate set. Unless of course the individual set is an upgrade to the existing. Either way I would double check. Cheers Slog
  16. Hi Grant, thanks for asking. Haven't done any more since the photos above. Spent a bit of time working on the card vehicle and then all modelling stuff was packed away March/April for selling our current place. Got to do practical completion inspection next week of our new place and then move in first week of October. Will have one of the spare rooms to set up in permanently so should be full steam ahead again so to speak not long after. Can't wait to get stuck in again with some modelling, its been so long now! Cheers Slog
  17. Hi Ken, I have quietly been following your build and enjoying your progress. I thought I might stick my oar in now since the topic of edge colouring has come up. I have never quite been satisfied with my edge colouring having tried, acrylic and enamel paints, as well as water colour 'blocks' and water colour pencils but have found a range of Faber Castell Pitt (PITT?) artist pens which have came very close to meeting my needs. The grays also come in cool and warm tones but the good thing is there is very little to no bleeding into the paper. I found using the very tip (less ink) and moving across quite quickly applies just the right amount. A lighter colour can be applied a couple of times to darken the edges. Also if a perfect colour can't been matched, the general consensus from what I can gather is the edge should be darker than the main part. The eye accepts it easier rather than a lighter edge. I covered the PITT pens somewhat in my Bismarck card build log. I found good matches for the different grays, a green and a brown. Cheers Slog
  18. Hi Bizibilder, good to see another Caldercraft Endeavour. I've been at mine on and off for 5+ years I think and still haven't started the masts LOL. Looking forward to more. Cheers Slog
  19. Hi Clare and Christian, Thanks for the info and the link, that clears up any confusion I had. Cheers Slog
  20. Hi, I have a bit of an ignorant question which I can't work out. Are the Shipyard kits like HMS Wolf, Alert etc all on white paper/card requiring 100% painting of all parts or is the parts pre-printed with colours, details etc. The reason I ask is they always appear to supply paints with there sets but then see Shipyard models which look so good with the colours they appear colour printed. The full painting of all parts would be well outside my skill level I think. Cheers Slog
  21. Hi Clare, I would go with the comments from Mark and Chris. Unless you are a purist, go with whatever is suitable to achieve the results you desire with-in your skill set. I am in no way a purist and ultimately will use or substitute with whatever I can as ultimately I want the model to be a decent representation of the ship regardless of how I got there. I consider myself a rank amateur when it comes to modelling and have the same concerns as you when it comes to rolling tubes for barrels etc. Looking forward to more progress shots. Cheers Slog
  22. Hi Clogger, Welcome aboard and thanks for the comments. Just had a look and the last time I worked on the Endeavour was over 18 months ago I didn't realise it was so long ago. The Endeavour and all my modelling gear is packed away until we move into the new place in October. This has to be a record for the longest house build ever, the builders have dragged their feet at every stage . Thankfully light at the end of the tunnel and can get modelling again. If you start up working on your Endeavour again make sure to start a build log here so we can follow your progress. Cheers Slog
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