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Seahawk1313

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Everything posted by Seahawk1313

  1. I agree with druxey with the removal of the Fasces and cap. Maybe replaced with something simple and British? - Hal
  2. Hi Kevin, Looks like your next ship modelling project, HMS Janus? -Hal
  3. Best wishes and speedy recovery, Will patiently wait for you to be able to work on your wonderful model. - Hal
  4. Hello Glenn, very nice work on the Flirt. I too know the draw of making saw dust. I'm rigging the frigates United States and President , and starting to lay the keel for the frigate New York. I bounce back and forth between rigging and saw dusting. When I need a break from one I do the other. Your work is very neat and clean, very well done.😄
  5. Steven, Your ship is wonderful and interesting , and your crew great fun. I'm very happy that I looked in on that you were doing. -Hal
  6. I love the subject. Your work is impressive. Just one question: You are using the British plans of the Tigre, are they as when she was captured ? I understand that the British tended to modify French ships to make them fit their service needs. Are the plans as captured or after modification? They usually changed deck hatches and various fittings. I will follow along with great interest. Your work is wonderful! - Hal
  7. Tim - The President was built slightly different then the Constitution and United States. J. Fox modified the plans and President had less sheer and slightly lighter framing and other minor alterations. -Hal
  8. Just a minor correction, The British did not burn the Navy Yard, The U S Navy personnel burned the yard before the British got to D.C. Also, all the " paper work" at the yard was carried away in wagons to some where in Maryland. What happened to them after that is anyones guess. = Hal
  9. Interesting story. I myself keep a note book not unlike that one for rigging. Early U S Navy ships. I'm basically old time pre computer guy. A different Hal.
  10. 50 years ago, the old wood boats I ran still had copper bottoms. I agree with Druxey's comments completely. The copper on them never turned green when in use and in the water, except maybe above the water line. The salt water cleans the copper fairly bright on an active boat. The bottoms didn't turn green until they were on land. They were 50-60 ft. Oyster Boats and Patrol Boats. I know some do not believe me, but this is how I remember it. - Hal
  11. Marcus K, If you can get it ?, The Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts had a book "William Rush, American Sculptor". It is excellent source of Rush's work. - Hal
  12. I agree with Beef Wellington and Wefalck. Easiest fix would be to add small piece of wood to the quion to level the barrel. Personally I would replace the carriages and barrels with some better ones. -Hal
  13. I seize my served shroud on a shaped piece of wood slightly larger then the mast head. I find working the lines off the mast and the model easier-Hal
  14. If I remember correctly ( dangerous ) the U.S. Navy stopped using them sometime before the War of 1812. -Hal
  15. Your carvings are excellent, a wonder to behold. I work in 1/96 scale. I wish I had your skill in carving. - Hal
  16. On the copper plates, You can leave them bright. On the boats I ran the copper didn't turn brown/green until it was out of the water in the yard. Salty water is like sanding the copper on an active boat. Sitting at dock the above waterline copper will turn, but once moving through the water it turns bright as a new penny. That's how I remember it to be.-Hal
  17. I laminate thin wood ( like "plywood" ) to make my collars and hearts, then cut to shape. - Hal
  18. Smaller upper block is for the lifts ,larger lower block is for the sheets. separate blocks seized together. - Hal
  19. The first two books on your list would be the most useful for 17 th century ships' rigging, the others are mostly later. - Hal
  20. Hi Ron, I use dyed veneer to "paint" my ships. You can use a black dyed veneer for the wales. - Hal
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