GrandpaPhil

Looking good!

Very cool

I photocopied the plan sheet for the brass photo etched sheets onto thin cardstock.

I sealed both sides of the cardstock sheets at the parts I am going to use.

The pieces that would have been thin brass, I will most likely just cut out and adjust as needed, like the lanterns above.

The pieces that go to door frame mouldings, the quarter badges and other trim pieces, will be fully glued to wood and be carved as appropriate.

The cardstock should reinforce the wood pieces so they don’t split out as they are being carved.

Tiny lantern prototype:

I need to make 6 of these.

Check out Grainger.  They have good stuff and their prices are usually decent.

The main deck is made and in place now:

The gundeck is now completely sealed in.

The majority of the gundeck is sealed in now:

I realized tonight, that you would have to boroscope the model to see all the detail work on the gundeck now, to say nothing of the orlop deck, lol.

This is the first time that I have ever made a fully enclosed deck before.

Looks amazing!

The gundeck is nearly ready to be sealed and then closed in:

I will add the final gunport sills after second planking the upper part of the model.

Nicely done!

The lower part of the hull is mostly complete now:

The pintles and gudgeons on the rudder needs some minor paintwork:

I need to paint the ones below the waterline that dingy white.

There are a couple places that need touched up in the same fashion, from where the green on the base came in contact with places it should not have, while the paint was still wet.

Then it will be time to complete the gundeck.

Thank you, Allan.

That’s what I figured.

I made the pintles and gudgeons from card and the pins from pieces of toothpicks.

I embossed the bolt heads with my pounce wheel.

I think it looks alright.

I’ll repaint those pintles and gudgeons below the waterline with the dingy white after this round of gluing dries.

The Admiral likes that look, so I’ll keep it.

I gave the hull a heavy patina:

I think I went a little overkill on the weathering and antiquing.

I should probably adjust the paint a bit, but I’m curious how this plays out.

It currently looks like I found it in an antique shop.

The base coat is done:

I am going to add a wash to the model with a strong tone wash from Army Painter.

That will add texture increase depth.

I am also going to paint the cradle a forest green so I can glue the hull to the cradle to simplify handling.

Excellent work!

Amazing work!

Nicely done!

Very good idea!

That looks amazing!

I will have to pick up a roll of that foil tape the next time I go to the hardware store!

I have several armored warships coming up.

Thank you very much!

The painting progresses:

And I’ve been working on the rudder:

I made the banding:

Now I just need to decide if all the banding is being painted black or the parts below the waterline will be painted white:

And because I do not like moving parts on a model, I glued the whipstaff in place:

Also, edge sealing when masking off for painting works really well for preventing bleed through.

And I discovered that most of my pieces are under thickness with my new calipers.

But, since this has been the same throughout the build, I am not worried about it.

The instruction booklet that came with my plans for the Victory Models Revenge shows the rudder banding below the waterline as being painted white with that lead anti-fouling paint that they used to use before copper plating.

Would that have been something done to prevent corrosion?

Well done!

A pounce wheel works well for embossing nail heads in card when using card for

iron banding or plating.

I pin my rudders to the ship.  It adds strength and prevents movement of the part.

Very nicely done, Brian!