GrandpaPhil
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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil
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And the cutouts from the kits will make perfect templates for those wish to make their own carvings to do so. This will make an awesome kit!
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- Seahorse
- De Zeven Provincien
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Congratulations! Well done!
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The starboard battery armor is on: I still need to cut out the port side and then install the waterline armor belt. After that, if I actually get my copper tape, I’ll copper the hull.
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Cornwall Model Boats has a wood one for $71 and the brass one for $42.95.
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Congratulations on the new home!
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Looking good!
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Nicely done!
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The fore and aft hull pieces are on: Currently working on the side pieces: Working on installing the gunport frames. Still waiting on the copper tape.
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Thank you all very much for the likes and just for stopping by! The windows and doors are all assembled (some are already installed): The first piece, the starboard bow section is on: The starboard aft section is partially shaped and almost ready to receive a door and 12 windows: In a card model, always preshape pieces before installing or you run a significant risk of it deforming the model.
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Model builder since I was 5 .
GrandpaPhil replied to Barry Rawson's topic in New member Introductions
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When I paint a wood part for a war gaming miniature, I prime it black. I then base coat it with a dark brown and dry brush with consecutively lighter browns, with consecutively less paint. The last coat is more of a tan and is more of a highlight coat. Then I put down a highlight coat. And it ends up looking like: That’s one of the bombed out buildings from the Bolt Action Band Of Brothers set by Warlord Games. I personally like acrylics. I also learned to paint, and many of my model making skills, playing Warhammer and Warhammer 40000, many years ago. For acrylic brands, Vallejo is hands down the best. Citadel and Army Painter are also very good. I use a lot of Delta Ceramcoat paint. It works well for me. Also, that carving group is most excellent. That’s how I learned how to carve. I really recommend it. After I carved the pieces from the example sheet, I had to go on a business trip. So while there, I bought an Excel brand knife, with some extra blades, and a sheet of basswood, and sat in my hotel room carving figures off the stern of the Triton and the Winchelsea for extra practice. I got decent at carving from that (not good by any stretch of the imagination), but decent enough to carve somewhat passably.
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Another option is that most print shops will print a color page pretty cheaply. Staples is a great place to get stuff printed. That’s how I made custom decals for a P-51 that I built a while back (nose art, etc). I printed them on a single sheet of paper, cut them out and glued them down.
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Welcome!
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I’ve been learning a lot about the structure of Magenta from building the Solferino. The hull is pierced in 108 spots for windows and gunports in the Orel kit. One difference I noticed is that the builders plans only show 94 gunports/windows. I am building from the plans as designed, so there will only be the 94, but that is definitely something to watch for, for the rest of the build (read planning process for now).
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Solferino has a keel! The windows and rudder are cut out! 1/8” wide copper tape is on order! Working on getting the upper hull covered so I can copper the lower hull. First thing’s first, need to build up the windows for the forward and aft sections of the hull.
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Working on the keel pieces now: There is some thin copper colored pieces to cover the keel pieces. There is also a bunch of copper colored paper with plating printed on it. I’m assuming that’s to fill in the gaps that wouldn’t be covered otherwise. I will try that first, but there’s still an 80-90% chance that the hull is going to end up with actual copper cladding. Coppering a hull is not overly complicated, or difficult, if you use self adhesive copper tape. It looks intimidating, but it is really very simple. I coppered the Prince de Neufchatel in a day (granted I had a nice blizzard outside, to work in). It is much like applying stickers to your model. The same applies if you are using that self adhesive vinyl wood grain covering that you use for cabinets, as a second layer of planking That is how I give a card model the appearance of wood grain when scratch building a wooden ship. Then you just paint as required. The only caution that I would give is only to buy enough for one project at a time, because both copper tape and vinyl covering lose their self-adhesive properties over time. For myself, I usually only finish one model every year or two, so this becomes important to remember.
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All 108 sills are cut out and assembled: Quick note, had those all been gunports, the Magentas would have been packing more cannons than the Victory (which packed 104). This is a direct reminder that the Magenta will be as complicated of a project as a traditional ship of the line. This is going to be fun!
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