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Mirabell61

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Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. David, the masts,yards gaff booms, and jib boom after cleaning and primering are painted with water soluble acrylic Basis paint (Color RAL 1017 Safran yellow), the parts get White tipped Ends Nils
  2. very nicely built ship Martin, I love your Detail to the rigging, Looks great. Hope that you have received your rudder pedestals by now, would like to see them mounted.... Nils
  3. Build log part 18 foremast one of the two main lower Yards with twinjackstays attached Yard mounted to its place Stern decoration with nameplate, and hometown badge (Kiel) Build log part 19 to follow.... Nils
  4. Build log part 17 getting all the eyelets soldered on stations for hight-fixed and vertical-moveable yards underside of topgallant platform masttop and slide rail for royal-yard underside of lower top platform Radar Station protection Cage on foremast fog horn within protection as well Build log part 18 to follow.... Nils
  5. Build log part 16 roller for Yard hoisting / lowering chain (in mid mast) bulls eyes inserted checking mast angles and alignment Fitting for taking up the chainplate (anchoring for the lower top shrouds) top spars with access- ladder and devices for antenna and nav light attachments belaying Points in deck area Build log part 17 to follow.... Nils
  6. Very, very fine work Bob, I love the Details and the accuracy you put into your woodwork Nils
  7. Thank you Bob I would`nt dare modeling my HMS Pegasus or any other 18th century ship with brass masts and -Yards.... Nils
  8. Gatean, I love that build of yours, great skilled handcraft work ! Nils
  9. Popeye, when I started using brass I took the following Advantages out of it... - tapering done by staggering appr. tube diam. (no endless taper-sanding etc.) - soldering provides stronger joining than wooden equivelant - to my experience with the rigging it is quicker than with Wooden parts - as I am using wire chord for the static rig, I can set shrouds, stays backstays, etc. well stiff without distorting the masts, when stays and backstays-stresses are equally balanced - a disadvantage would be the weight compared with wood, but that is not relevant for a stand model that is put on a stabil stand. I pay much Attention for securing the standbolts (removable but safely) to the model Nils
  10. Build log part 15 togallant platforms Connection to cap and spars (on the two mainmasts) alignment checks before soldering parts together the lower top is moved to the correct Position, then secured with a pin to the mast Mast rail shoe that goes to the appropriate yardrack set of uncompleted masts and jib boom some paint touch ups done, now ready for inserting portholes (bulls eyes) Build log part 16 to follow.... Nils
  11. beautiful work Jan, a pleasure to see this model in Progress Well done ! Nils
  12. Build log part 14 Starting to do parts of the masts plattforms for the lower tops (multifold soldering Piece) These will be slipped on to the mast and later secured in Position by a pin handrails at rearside of plattforms chocolate Brown Color at poop and forecastle upper portions anchorchain portholes mounted other porthole openings drilled but no inserts yet White paint on... Build log part 15 to follow.... Nils
  13. Build log part 13 Time to get primer and paint started... dull White resin based primer is brushed on the rudder has been plated as well, but the prop is too small in diam. found this one at a web-shop, and modified it a bit, cut off the eye and drill a M3 thread into the hub figure is 1:87 (H0) scale) here and the next pics the White Portion is only primered Build log part 14 to follow.... Nils
  14. Nice Project Hans, and yo layed down a good start, shall follow with interest.... Nils
  15. David, the plating I do (cut equal pieces)from a 100mm wide coil of 0,125mm thick alu-tape (self adhesive). The glue side is protected by a film that is pulled off from the rear side, just before the cut in shape and ponced plates are put in Position. The single plates are layed on a rubber plate with the shiny side down and then ponced from the rear side (without removing the glue protection film ) by using a handle with an spanned in toothwheel made of an old mantel clockwork. It depends on the width of the toothwheel how many toothrows can be arranged next to one another on the individual toothwheel ( 1 row riviting.... up to 3 row riviting, etc.) Nils
  16. Thanks Popeye, thats very encouraging to get such nice comment.... Nils
  17. Peter, for my behalf I`m not so far as you are right now, but if you would`nt mind, I shall be happy if I can contact you on the running rigging in due time. Meanwhile I shall study your Progress with great interest Nils
  18. Thank you Peter, I trust I shall have another Close look at the Amati plans Nils
  19. Very impressing work Remco, those Details are real eyecandy, and it is a delight to watch your Fitting out... Nils
  20. Nenad, as Long as there is no commercial use gained out of it, I have no objections with you passing photos on to your modeller freinds. Nils
  21. David, (...to ceat...) thats a new word to me I can`t look up anywhere, do you have a synonyme for it ? Nils
  22. Build log part 12 The ultimate GF 2 actual Version has rivited plates to the frames and also welded plates for horizontal seams. As I do not exactly know to what degree the riviting was in 1958 when launched, I "rivited" the entire models hull. Perhaps someone may now better... Build log part 13 to follow..... Nils
  23. Build log part 11 the ladder like fields dimensions orientate on the grating (later fitted) measurements the boatrack supports are screwed done under the same screws as the pinrack rails welldeckview looking foreward the functional flip launching boards shall take up the inflatable raft Containers (here closed) here flipped open, also the Center Support deck to boatrack Support can be seen here the plating of the hull Begins. The main plating to be seen in the next build log part Build log part 12 to follow.... Nils
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