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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Thanks again Michael; I missed this otherwise would not have cluttered you log as much This looks a very usable and ergonomic solution. cheers Pat
  2. Hi Chris, the biggest 'must do' for me is power outlets - never have enough of them- plus one at the front of the bench to plug in those hand held tool so that the cords are more easily managed/kept away from the work piece. cheers Pat
  3. Thanks Michael, that is very helpful. That would be very useful if you go ahead with a design using commonly available materials; I for one would value it. cheers Pat
  4. Very nice work Dave, that looks very nicely proprtioned and balanced. cheers Pat
  5. Nice progress Dave they look good - not trying clinker planking cheers Pat
  6. Michael, I think having two of those little beauties (third hands) is excessive; to save you the embarrassment I am happy to take the second one off your hands (all puns intended) Seriously though, they look great. I purchased a GRS third hand (soldering station) but yours, especially with the machine clamps look very usefull for rigging as well as many soldering set-ups. Would you mind posting a pdf of the mechanical set-up of the arm version (how you make it grip the bar yet remain adjustable etc)? I am not keen on grub or thumb screw option and I really like what you have done here. cheers Pat
  7. That's great Greg; very informative seeing someone with experience put it all together. Many thanks. Those clear perspex holders also look useful - where did you get them? cheers Pat
  8. I had not seen this topic before and sorry to have missed it That is 'some' restoration, and glad it is you rather than me. You're doing an excellent job of restoration Michael, I will be sure to follow this topic more closely now that I have found it. cheers Pat
  9. I wouldn't OC as the keying with sandpaper/steelwool (even the finest will leave micro-scratches) which in time may tend to show grime, swirls etc etc - better to wait I think. Then again, I have seen some high-gloos (but very hard) paint finished with a very, very fine wet&dry with no long effect. cheers Pat
  10. Looks good Greg, very fiddly work indeed and I just hope my 'trembling' old fingers can cope WRT copper wire those handrails must have been a real b....r to do? Comment duly noted cheers Pat
  11. Thanks Vossy and Greg. That answers the major part and much appreciate the feedback. The biggest trick (for me) as a novice will be to place things just right, hence my questions on where to apply the glue, the PE or the assembly part? A few pics, or as COG suggests a video would be real nice, on some of the techniques you have developed for placing some of these tricky parts. Unlike a nice big strong (compared to these plastic/resin models) you can clamp the assembly (read hull) which gives a nice steady platform on which to apply the part; how do you hold these smaller less robust assemblies while you place the PE; and don't fingers and the like get in the way???? I hope this is not high-jacking your thread Greg, and I am happy to move these posts to a separate topic? YouTube does not have much on this for building scale model ships (well that I can find anyway) and you seem to have a real knack for it; I am sure many others as well as I could benefit from your experience. cheers Pat
  12. Very nice plans you are developing Joss; they should make building very easy with such detail. I have been looking in regularly but not posted. cheers Pat
  13. Looking good OC - I was surprised how much detail popped with the top-coat; is it a flat or a satin (semi-flat) finish as it does reflect light with a bit of shine to it? cheers Pat
  14. Greg I think ir3 may have been wanting to know how you apply the CA? I'd be interested also After dry fit and painting off the assembly, do you apply the CA to the part or to the assembly? What do you use to apply the CA and what sort thin or gel or... I have been watching some YouTube (aircraft) modelling tips and they often place the part then apply a thin glue and allow it to wick into the joints; can you do that with thin CA? cheers Pat
  15. Thanks for all who looked and their likes and comments. Dave, one of the ideas is to produce at least some of the parts by 3D printing. I am learning 3D so that I can also produce templates for deck furniture and ship fittings; that way, I can trial them in 3D CAD to see if it will go together as planned. Ron, I'll take a look at that but a bit early for me just yet. The key thing I intend to use this for, is to try and build a representative CAD drawing of a pivot gun c1855. I have found no definitive plan or drawing just yet, so I will try and cobble what I can together from contemporary paintings, drawings and similar gun carriages etc. cheers Pat
  16. Hi folks, Well now that my Endeavour build is complete I have a little more time to do things and decided I would try to learn 3D (using TurboCAD). I learn by doing so I decided to invest in a Tutorial produced by Don Cheke of Textual Creations. Don has created a TC 3D tutorial for an antique cannon that while not exactly true to design is very close, so I thought this would be a good way of developing the skills I will need to design and create the cannon and carriage for HMCSS Victoria. The following show the carriage in a near complete state (still have to do the quoin and the trucks) and then onto the cannon itself. These are just basic renders with no materials or the like applied yet. It's been fun but I have soooooooo much to learn yet - just getting my head around the work planes is daunting cheers Pat
  17. Really nice work Toni; some really nice detail there. cheers Pat
  18. This will keep you going for a while Greg? Lots of fiddly bits to apply. Looks great. cheers Pat
  19. Thanks for looking in Glenn, no matter when I very much appreciate your comments which mean a lot to me. cheers Pat
  20. Thanks again Rowan and c.a. Not a one-off c.a. - see earlier posts ( and previous page) cheers Pat
  21. I would think some trawler skippers would be envious of this set-up Denis cheers Pat
  22. Great to have you and this little beauty back Glenn. I hope the novovirus didn't take too much out of you as it can be very debilitating. I would love to see this model, and your other work, in real life as the detailing is simply superb. cheers Pat
  23. I have used the nuking technique successfully for bending thin and thicker planks (up to 4mm square stock) and it doesn't seem to leech the colour out of wood (such as walnut) as you experience with boiling. cheers Pat
  24. Thanks OC, appreciate you looking in and the kind words. cheers Pat
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