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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Hi Mike, A couple of thoughts to keep in mind and depending on your budget. I have found using Daylight (55000K) light the best to work with. These are readily available in fluorescent tubes as well as gloves; just make sure you buy a standard size light to accept the tubes. If you are REALLY serious about the light, you can get a 'medical' quality lamp that will produce a light that ensures no colour change to what you are working on if you wish to seriously match paint etc. cheers Pat
  2. Ulises, if you approach the task with the same aplomb you have with the deck planking I am sure it will look great. cheers Pat
  3. Thanks BE for you comments, and to all for looking in. A bit of experience with the jig has allowed me to achieve a tighter weave and using a less 'fluffy' thread has also helped with the final presentation. Some credit also to Cristikc whom sent me some photos of his work on his Endeavour (very nice build) and his rigging efforts and some ideas posted by other members (using plastic versions of this) inspired this. I hope the evolution of this jig continues; I look forward to seeing some of the output by Gregor and see if there are further enhancements to make the task easier. cheers Pat
  4. Hi Gregor, glad it was of some help to you. That is one jim-dandy of a jig you have created - it looks very efficient I am assuming it has the serving part built into it which would make it much better. cheers Pat
  5. Small but nice Coming along very nicely John but I note you have reverted to my rate of progress/building cheers Pat
  6. Nice work Mark, and a major (not minor) milestone now met cheers Pat
  7. Welcome ( a little belated) to the Endeavour build club Dave; you've made good progress. Another reference you may wish to pursue if you can get your hands on them are the plans (volume 2) of Ray Parkin's book also; I have found it useful for some items but there are significant differences between Marquardt and Parkin in some areas (rudder post trunk, stern windows and bumpkins as a few to highlight). I have stayed with Marquardt mostly and use photos of the replica as my fallback. Also, s Shipaholic has pointed out in some of his posts, the original plans are also very useful. cheers Pat
  8. Hi Greg, nice work on the yards mate; look great! Better hurry up though I am catching you at a snail's pace (just finishing the lower standing rigging - will post an update soon). cheers Pat
  9. Very nice work Ulises and great discussion on the various issues you have encountered and the remedies applied. Have you thought about installing any LEDs to highlight those windows? cheers Pat
  10. Extemporary work as usual Alex; a joy to see. cheers Pat
  11. Nice work Danny, looking really good (especially for a set of heads ) cheers pat
  12. Nice detail Piet, these tubes are becoming a true masterpiece in metalwork and detail. The original 'spaghetti junction perhaps? cheers Pat
  13. Excellent work Remco, you are providing some very fine examples of everyday activity aboard these ships and befits such a finely detailed model. I enjoy seeing the additional finely crafted work you are applying. cheers Pat
  14. The spars look good Greg; you'll be celebrating completion before you know it cheers Pat
  15. Very nice progress Rusty; haven't poked my nose in for awhile and was very pleasantly surprised. Go on - just one more 'wafer thin' coat' won't hurt Cheers Pat
  16. Shishh! You're not wasting any time in putting this build together mate; that's quite some quality progress. cheers Pat
  17. Nice to see the update, and especially to see the repairs done to your satisfaction Greg. Great work on the anchor, that looks great - I look forward to further updates. cheers Pat
  18. Hi Ulisis, seems like you have got a solution. My approach would have been to make a jig that represented the finished planking thickness (plus a smidge) with a square hole the size of the ports. Place the jig over the ports as they are now up against the framing and sand the metal ports down to approximate depth based on the jig. After planking and fitting the barrels there wouldn't be much sanding involved to fair the planks and ports which should minimise the risk of damage to the cannon? Just one approach - many other Looking good BTW cheers Pat
  19. Sounds like you have it well in hand mate; I'll follow along with great interest. cheers Pat
  20. Hi Mike, I don't know how I missed this. Started likes only to realise I was right at the start - so jumped to the end. That is a very nice build mate and looks great in the photoshop you have done - jest need to had some photoshoped figures and you'd swear it was the real thing cheers Pat
  21. She looks real good Ulisis; coming along very nicely. Will you be painting these red before applying the planking?
  22. Sorry Mike, my poor word use. I intended open as in a hole in the middle vice three lead (small holes). The Marquardt AOTS shows the heart as closed (as in a fully enclosed with single large aperture or 0 as you have asked). I hope this clarifies the issue? cheers Pat
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