BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Hi Meredith, that is terrific. I note though you have only laid up LH rope to date; have you tried RH? Most interesting noting you can work several strands on each spool. I had been planning on experimenting with that, but you have saved me the trouble. Thanks for that great feedback. I am also considering a trial using a core (back fed spool) using a stiffer or larger rope. Just need to get my machine back together before I can progress Thanks for the superb service there Jim, much appreciated. I also would be very interested in any discussion on the best thread to use as I have experimented with Rayon, poly-cotton and silk. THe Rayon was too weak and kept breaking, but if I could get it to work, I think would make very nice rope. The poly-cotton has worked best so far but is far more susceptable to stretching and needs more hardening The linen proved very difficult to use and when Jim looked under a sample under a microscope, he said the thread diameter was variable and looked "awful". That said, it may have just been the brand/type I was trying and may not be true of all silk. cheers Pat
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Hi Mike, there are plenty of places selling these sorts of products here in Oz. There is a supplier in Perth that used to sell Carrs Brass Black; just can't think of the name at the moment (will need to search through my records). Also many gun shops sell Birchwood Casey "Brass Black" (for repairs to gun barrels). May pay to have a search around. cheers Pat -
Thanks guys, now back to the building board cheers Pat
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That is some very excellent craftsmanship Remco. I just lookked back through your log, and second time round really makes you appreciate how fine a job you are doing. That piccy of the tiny key you made is just .... well puts my efforts to shame cheers Pat
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I think they have to be some of the best canon I have seen made Alex. Did you use a duplicator when turning them? if so, could you show a pic of your set-up? cheers Pat
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Thanks for looking in Brian and Mark; appreciate the comments. Let's hope all the old logs reappear here, there were some wonderful builds. cheers Pat
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Upper Masts The upper masts were fashioned much like the process used for the lower masts. I have tried to make these from a single piece so that they are straight and stronger. With one exception I managed this but the Mizzen top mast "got away from me" when I was milling the six-sided conical shapes and I had to cut it out and pin a new one in. To ensure I had enough 'meat' in the stock for each process, I learned the hard way that I had to leave enough meat (diameter) in the round for the size of the future conical pieces and the masts caps etc and do a double taper design. Well, that's me caught up folks, I hope you find this log useful.
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Tops With the lower masts constructed, I have moved onto the tops and as you can see, my planking technique is improving but I have some way to go yet. I do not intend using plank joint trennels on the tops as the scale is much too small. I have now tried several different ways of simulating the caulking and have settled on using a 2B pencil rubbed along one edge of the plank as the best finish at this scale. The trestle-trees are just loosely fitted and will be adjusted to their correct position when the tops are fitted to the masts. I have yet to do the trennels for the platforms. It took me a while to determine the best technique to create the futtock deadeyes and straps. Eventually I realised that I could create the eye for the deadeye from brass wire. Soldering this closed is not such a problem as these deadeyes are black, and a coat of Raven Oil soon hides any char/scorch marks. I then flattened the tail using a pair of flat jaw pliers (no grip pattern on the inside of the jaws). Once the tail has been flattened and cut to length I drill a small hole for the hooks that will secure the futtock shrouds. The completed top platforms are shown below along with the futtock deadeyes ready for mounting when I assemble the masts.
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Lower Masts The next task was to make a start on the masts. Unfortunately, in my early days of construction I did not fit partners. I am currently trying to determine a good way to add these without making them an obviously tacked on afterthought – another valuable lesson learned. After some experimenting with turning on the lathe etc, I found the best method to create the compound tapers of the masts was: Reduce square stock to an octagon, and then to 16 sided, using a v-channel and small jack plane. I put the marked square stock into v-channel which is held in a vice. A small bolt at one end provides a stop for the stock while I shoot; the bolt head is set at a height that will not catch the blade at the smallest dimension of the reduced stock. Chuck and spin the reduced stock in the lathe while using various grades of sandpaper to create the round at the appropriate diameters. I used a digital calliper to measure the diameter, stopping more frequently to check measure the closer I arrived to the required dimension. I then used the mill to cut the flat faces for the fish and cheeks and upper flats. The angle plate attachment is ideal for adjusting the spar to a angle that when held in a machine vice, produces an even cut along to the tapered angle of the mast, to ensure a level cut. I have used vinyl pin stripe tape (used to simulate racing strips for RC cars) to simulate the recessed steel bands, and thin strips of negative plates (used in the printing industry) to simulate the iron bands where they stand proud. The negative has a flat black finish which looks like blackened brass, and is to handle and glue with CA (gel).
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Bowsprit and Jib Boom The first spars to be produced were the bowsprit and jib-boom. I have used the design of the solid/joined knightheads found on the Endeavour replica. As this was to be painted I made it as a solid piece rather than constructing the chock between the knightheads. After dimensioning the bowsprit, I soaked it in boiling water for 20 minutes and left it to dry on a former under clamping pressure. I have used brass sheaves in the bee, and created a recess with and iron clasp in the bowsprit cap to hold the Jack staff which will be fitted when I have completed the rigging. I have used Huon Pine for the jib boom and masts and stained them with Bushman's stain. This is an Australian product made from natural products found in our bush. The resulting finish is very close in appearance to the varnished masts seen on the Endeavour replica.
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Hi Toni, a couple of things I have learned (the hard way ) while rebuilding my log that may help compress your log (white space). I hope I am not telling you how to "suck eggs" here, just trying to be helpful but please ignore the post if I am not being helpful When you import the images they appear as thumbnails at the bottom of the editor. If you look closely there is some text to allow you to delete it or "add to post". if you click the latter it is placed within the post at the location of the cursor (rather than attached as an image) allowing you to select exactly where you wanty it, and in which order (as you can upload in batches (max 10 per post). EDIT That is now 8 per post. (Danny) Also, I found that the editor adds several returns at the end of the post, and inserts extra line breaks if you cut and paste the text in. I went back through my posts and removed all the linebreaks and additional spaces at the end of the post (I wish that it was possible to make these visible) and it compressed my post sizes considerably. Just for thought - I can delete this post to remove it from your log thread when you have read it; just PM me and I will get to it as soon as I read the PM. cheers Pat
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Great to see you back Toni, and great news that you will repost your 'edited' log. BUT, please leave some (a selected few maybe) of the attaboys/gals in it just as a motivational thing for the future when it sometimes may seem to be all a bit of a 'slog'. You were (and continue to) doing some very nice work and its good to have some of the positive feedback there. At the same time I cann see the benefits of a 'streamlined' log. cheers Pat
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Hi Gary - Awesome - I was hoping you would repost that magnificent build! I look forward to reaquainting myself with the fine lady. cheers Pat
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Great to see this build-log again Garward; this is an examplary build of a battle station. I especially like the canon which are so finely detailed. cheers Pat
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Great to see you back Alistair along with your repost of this fine build; as you say, a great reference for others building this kit. You did a great job with her. cheers Pat
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Great to see you back Pop-eye. Now all we need are some M&Ms cheers Pat
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Hi Andy, great job in 'cherry-picking' your photos; that's a great summary of your build. I particularly like your quarter badge window modifications. cheers Pat
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Hey John great to see you and this great build reappear. Could I ask that one of your next posts includes a scaling device or ruler so that newer folks see just how small a scal you work with? Popeye - we'll look forward to the when you are appointed cheers Pat
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Nice to see this build-log of a very fine model again Ilhan, I hope youu repost some of your other very fine builds also? cheers Pat
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Thanks for reposting this wonderful build Chuck; she is a thing of beauty! I have her marked as a future build cheers Pat
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Great to see your fine build on dispay again Alex; I have very much enjoyed watching your fine craftsmanship. cheers Pat
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Nice to see this fine lady gracing our build-logs again Russ. Such sweet lines don't deserve to be hidden away on some HDD or the like cheers Pat
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Great to see the log back Greg; this time I haven't missed it until quite late - will follow this with interest. cheers Pat
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Great to see the log being reassembled. Reading for the second time has been instructive as I missed a few great tips the first time through. cheers Pat
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Hi folks, If you are a scratch builder, or like to make your own stock timber, then Australian Furnture Timbers in Port Melbourne are also helpful and will allow you to purchase 1 meter lengths. You will need to be able to resaw/mill the large planks into billets yourself (or find someone to do this service for you). They have a wide range of timbers and the staff have always been very helpful (no financial interest etc; just a happy customer ) cheers Pat
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