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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Love that sail Steven; looks great. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    I'll jump on this bandwagon also. I have had most of Jim's tools for many, many years. Over that time the tools have been reliable, accurate and safe to use. The few issues I have had were quickly sorted and parts sent when necessary, much appreciated noting I live on the other side of the world cheers, and many thanks Jim and Donna Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Great job Steven, the rigging is coming on very nicely. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Boy, you're not sitting around on this - progress is impressive Rob. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Thanks for sharing; what a fantastic opportunity that was; especially collecting a few small artefacts. let's hope they find the funds to better preserve the vessel; if all these small bits keep falling off who knows what will be left in the longer term? cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Hi Clipper, not out of left field at all. I have purchased and consulting Andrew Bowcock's excelnt "CSS Alabama - Anatomy of a Confederate Raider" which, along with some other related material, has been the source of some very useful information. There are also some useful 'Official' ship's documents for contemporary vessels of a similar design in the NMM which have proven useful. My problem is that analysing all this by myself has proven very time consuming and slowed down the build considerably. The main reason/cause of the slow down being that I jumped ahead with the 'armament' only to find the initial research (sweep/race patterns) proved wrong and trying to fix them would ruin the model (deck). So lesson learned - thoroughly research and validate before building cheers, and thanks for your interest. Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Hi Greg, nice work, your Sydney looks great. If I may be permitted one suggestion: the Mk92 dome appears too shiny compared to the weather hull? (May be a trick of the photography though?). cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Very nice work Raz, I especially like the turned fittings. I don't comment much but look in often to follow your progress. The model is looking great with all this new detail. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Rob, some of those shots really show the very fine job you are doing with this model, very nice work indeed. I also very much enjoy reading the background discussion all of you are having in resolving the best possible outcome for her true lines and equipment placement. I just wish I had someone else with similar deep knowledge of the Victoria to bounce my ideas off cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    That rigging looks good Keith, I think you have done a pretty decent job of it. We are always our own worst critics cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi Peter, that looks pretty good. Please note the lay of the rope for the shrouds may also affect the amount of twist. Most shrouds of this era were cable laid (left hand). I was referring to the sequence or method you actually put the lanyards through the deadeyes; from your response I am still not sure you understood my comment. Please ignore/forgive any unintended 'motherhood' in the following if you did understand. A good example can be found here in the forums at post #20 in the following link: Basically from forward to aft and not crossing (I note yours do not cross so may not be the cause, so it may be twist imparted from the shrouds themselves). Another helpful diagram is provided on the Suburban Ship Modeller website. Hope these clarify, cheers. Pat
  12. BANYAN
    You're making some significant progress Peter. The twisting of the deadeyes may be related to the way you reave them - have you done them the recommended way (as in the real ships)? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Oh how I know about those chores - they seem never ending cheers pat
  14. BANYAN
    Ditto the above - mate you will just have to stop work, I am running out of superlatives for your workmanship and detail. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in and the info Steven; appreciated. Yep, the one and the same vessel. In her early years Victoria was attached to the Water Police with her Captain dual ranked as a Commander (Victorian Navy) and as a Police Superintendent, the rest of the crew were similarly dual rated based on their ranks. I was aware of the Shenandoah and the antics surrounding her visit. There is an excellent display and artefacts held by 'SeaWorks' in Williamstown, (some in the the "Pirates Bar'), if you are ever down give me a hoy and we could go visit. Also of interest, Churchill Island (near Phillip Island in Westernport Bay) has a couple of cannon on display in the grounds which they proport are from the Shenandoah. Attached is a piccy of the model of (Capt. Douglas) Elders Gun Raft 'The Elder' for anyone interested. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Very clever indeed. The yards with their furled sails look very effective, I will really have to try your technique. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Ouch, hopefully not a difficult repair? The 'canning' effect looks good Greg. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    All I can say Keith is WOW! but even that did not sound right beccause my lower jaw is still dragging on the ground. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Thanks for all the comments, likes and support/encouragement folks, much appreciated. Some good ideas presented/offered which may cause me to revisit my technique. The use of the crossed pieces inserted into slots sounds promising, thanks Eberhard. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Nice find Bruce, makes interesting reading. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Next up are the spiderbands which require lugs to be soldered to some small thin walled tubing. I made up a jig which I think is self explanatory. I used aluminium as the solder will not stick. The jig allows me to keep the lugs square to the tube even though in the photo they don't look it (optical illusion). These lugs have yet to be drilled, shaped and cleaned up, then I will use a razor saw to part of 1.5mm wide band with the lugs attached. The real tricky part will come when I have to try and impart a very shallow taper to the ID of the tube; hopefully the solder (silver soldered) will hold. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Well, I have finally got myself back into the workshop and started on some of the smaller fittings to be used in rigging the ship. The first are the fittings for the lower studdingsail/swing booms for which I need to make the ferule with gooseneck, and the spider bands. Noting the boom diameter is only a few millimetres in diameter, these are quite small. For the ferule I decided PE was the way to go, so drew up the basic stock parts. After experimenting I found I could not consistently 'round' a non-circular piece to form the concave end, so ended up going with a circular bit. I formed the concave shape by using a PE bending jig I have that has dimples inset for this purpose, then pressing the shape using a burnishing tool. I could not use tube for the bands as the diameters differ so I soldered a thin strip. The following are a couple of photos showing the end result of my first attempt where the alignment leaves a bit to desire, but overall, when viewed at eye distance, they look OK - not so great close up s they have not been cleaned up yet (the ruler is in mm). I will use some wire inserted in the end (through the preformed hole) as the start of the gooseneck. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    What a beauty! Very nicely presented and a well constructed Model John. You should be proud of this one. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Simply wonderful work Eberhard; she/he is turning into a very eye-pleasing model. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Allan, there are sure to be better solutions offered by the more experienced/talented builder but I used a 'splitter' tool generally employed by RC aircraft builders. I cut some very tight grained wood in thin strips to the required thickness to form the 'molded' dimension, then use this tool to take off thin strip to form the width of the stile etc. Below is a picture of the tool which I use with a jig clamped to a solid and straight edged cutting surface. I form a fence on the edge of the jig or table to guide the tool having clamped the strip to the surface (ensure it is square to cutting direction), and such that the cut strip between the tool and the stock ( I find that minimises the splitting sometimes experienced - a sharp blade is essential . Apart from the splitting, the other reason I have the cut piece restrained by the tool, is to stop it 'curling'. I hope that all makes some sense? There are various types out there, the first below is the style I used but I have also seriously thought of trying those card style cutters available from Office Supplies. The second image is a foam cutter that may also work? cheers Pat

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