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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Gregory
    I agree. Your input is appreciated.. I found the tape to be quick and easy. It didn't cause any safety concerns for me beyond what already exists. I fail to see why my fingers would be in any more danger than with the use of a rigid insert. In either case my fingers would need to encroach on the blade, and I fail to see how a rigid insert would mitigate that if I were not being careful to keep my fingers from the path of the blade. The tape certainly does not increase my comfort zone.. Now that someone mentioned it, the idea that a bind might cause a cut piece to go down through the tape, could be a gauge of a problem that needs to be addressed; cleaning, sharpening. I'm never resistant to good ideas.. Though I try not to dismiss ideas without trying them
  2. Gregory
    Does the Byrnes saw have any vertical play when you loosen it to move it? When you tighten it?
  3. Gregory
    A lot to think about.. I appreciate the comments.
  4. Gregory
    Haven't had that problem.. I can see where it would be more of a possibility if the blade is binding against the material. Time to clean or replace the blade. Will keep it in mind..
  5. Gregory
    I did that with my Microlux. Was easy to make with my laser.. But, one day I needed a new insert and thought I would try the tape as a stop-gap before taking the time to make one, it seemed to work OK, so I thought " Why go to the trouble to make one? "..
  6. Gregory
    I always do.. Haven't had a problem so far with this.. What do you see as a problem, if any, with the tape as a zero clearance insert?
  7. Gregory
    Just a random picture.. I adjust the blade based on the height of the billet being cut.. What do you see as a problem with the tape as a zero clearance insert?
  8. Gregory
    There is a definite need for Zero clearance inserts for our table saws. Replacements are not that expensive, and it's good to have one for different blades. I've been doing this: I put a strip of masking or duct tape over the opening ( over default insert with about 1/4 clearance insert underneath ).. Hasn't caused any problems I'm aware of. Why might it be a bad idea?
  9. Gregory
    Strange looking collet.. With no more information I would think it is upside down.. The collets I am familiar with look like this: The collet and retainer appear to be upside down. Looking at the manual I'm even more convinced.. If you continue un-screwing, the whole thing should come off if you can find some way to lock the shaft..
  10. Gregory
    I just noticed the belaying pins in the image above.. Did those come in the kit, and are they wood? They look a lot better than most kit provided pins..
  11. Gregory
    If it wasn't clear, I was referring to one plank at a time ; before laying the next plank..
  12. Gregory
    Sounds messy.. A pencil along the edge after the plank is in place makes for a good effect and is easy to do..
  13. Gregory
    Have you seen this one? The Schooner: Its Design and Development from 1600 to the Present Paperback – March 1, 2001 It looks like it may be fairly comprehensive as well..
  14. Gregory
    What kind of help do you need? There is another scratch build of Bounty going on by AdamA .. You might check it out.
  15. Gregory
    My log explains that 'Resolution" is a name chosen by Corel with no resemblance to any actual ' Resolution ' on record. Also explained in my log, the lines are a close match to drawings found at the NMM for Ferret 1711. The drawings say it is " ... a cutter-rigged Sloop. " ... I try not to struggle too much with rope sizes based on tables or establishments.. I look at contemporary and other well made models and try to get a look that is well proportioned.
  16. Gregory
    Don't remember exactly, but came across it somewhere. Think " rotten egg smell "... Has to do with outgassing sulfur compounds. If I were going to patina a ( model ) ship's bottom, I would enclose it in an upside down box or something similar, the more airtight the better, and have several chopped boiled eggs in there with it. Just a few hours should do it. Not as messy as having to brush something on, then wipe it off.
  17. Gregory
    I really like the look of the wood on the hull!
  18. Gregory
    Once the copper is all done, assuming it doesn't have some kind of coating on it, just clean it real good with acetone and it will develop a nice patina in a few months. If you want something a little faster, put it in an enclosed space with a few chopped boiled eggs.. Check every few hours untill it looks like you want. This is copper leaf that I put in a bag with a chopped boiled egg overnight..
  19. Gregory
    This one? Masting and Rigging Spreadsheet Thanks for getting me there.
  20. Gregory
    Do you by chance have a link for that? Searching for stuff here is not as intuitive ( for me anyway ) as you think it might be..
  21. Gregory
    Isn't it really great when someone takes the time to explain something rather than telling us to go look in " $200 Book " .. This epitomizes the true worth of these forums..
  22. Gregory
    Great update.. The FA is on my " soon to do list " .. I look forward to seeing how the CNC and laser can embellish the kit.. Did you consider using the laser to square up the window frames?
  23. Gregory
    I have to 2nd Blue Ensign on this. The reason most wood ship kits are never finished is because even the most simple ones are not simple. Take a look at the index of build logs. Note how many are " Finished " Note how many haven't been updated in 5 or more years.. Few people have the patience to see these kits through to the end..
  24. Gregory
    This came up when I was working on my Mary.. Similar boats have double vangs..
  25. Gregory
    On an 1820 Baltimore schooner, I assumed he meant these.. ... from the topic i referenced above..

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