DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING!
×
Gregory
-
Posts
3,160 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Gregory
-
The AOTS for Bellona said she shipped out with 48 tons of coal, wood and candles.. Perhaps the Winchelsea would have had half that.. I don't think the candles would have been a big part of that..- 1,784 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Without actual section stations other than the one provided. your only option would be to invent them yourself. Some of your top drawings appear to be missing also.
-
How to seize a block to an iron band
Gregory replied to Laggard's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Just to make sure you are getting good info, it would help to have more information about the model and the purpose of the block. If the plans do not show how to set up the block, there may be other missing or incorrect information. -
Very nice work so far.. FA Is one of my favorite kits, and on my to-do list.. I'm a big fan of un-painted wood, so I look forward to seeing how much bare wood you end up with.
-
Apparently this is one of those modeling conventions that has a life of it's own.. To me, it's one of those things that detracts from an otherwise nice model.. It looks like someone started a basket and didn't finish it.
-
With apple wood, you have to work with an orchard to get prunings or a culled tree.. still may not be a practical option for you..
-
If you Google the title, you can get it for at least half that.. Here is one at Abe Books for $95 shipped.. If you don't have to hold a book in your hand, here is a free E-book .. The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, It is apparently in the public domain. There is also a free "Steels Art of Rigging" in the NRG resources..
- 857 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
I know how I will be making most of my lashings from now on.. How I used to make them is embarrassing..
-
One more thought.. I thought I read somewhere that NZ has lots of apples.. If you can get your hands on some good apple wood, it is excellent for modeling. Of course, it would also depend on your milling capabilities.
-
Probably no more than the average storm drain around the world..😁
-
( Alan, just saw your comments. Thanks for the additional input. ) Here is a quick quote from Lees regarding some of the belaying points in question.. Page 97 of my copy regarding topgallant bowlines and bowline bridals. After 1773 ( Melumpus ) they were still belayed to the fore top, but blocks that were used previously are omitted. So that is the change/improvement that would have been made since 1750 ( Royal Caroline ). As to the question of whether lines were belayed at the tops, this reference says they were, and there was no change in that regard between 1750 and 1785.
-
The information I provided from Petersson was an effort to answer a question. There was no claim of reliability, just a possibility. However, a reply from Delf appears to add some credibility to the information. Which I have added to my fount of knowledge.. I will look forward to your input when you return from holiday and can check your references...
-
What improvements do you think might be evident with regard to the original question regarding belaying points? Lees often quotes practices that didn't change much over periods of 35 years and more.
-
Petersson does show some belaying on the tops. He shows some pins on the rail at the rear of the top and some cleats on the shrouds. Of course, Petersson is looking at a model, so there is no confirmation this was actual practice..
-
FWIW, the wood of the model in your image is/was probably boxwood.. The color comes from 200+ years of aging.. An idea I had for covering exposed plywood edges was to use strips of veneer. Not sure what resources you have in NZ, but here in the US I would be looking in a woodworking store for something like this:
-
Here is a drawing from Anatomy of The Ship - Royal Caroline.. It might be similar, and just angled into the deck..
- 274 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Earlier you said: The NMM plans and the Alert book is all I would have recommended. Perhaps when you have some photos, you can point out the problem you are having.
-
Excellent! That would serve as final planking on any ship, with very little left to do in the way of finishing..
-
What is the nature of your project? Plank on frame ? Plank on bulkhead ? Do you have any plans at all?
-
You say CNC.. Is this a laser?
-
when to rig the shrouds to the deadeyes.
Gregory replied to bobc622's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Not all of it, of course. and it would vary depending on the rig. I was thinking more about the cutter rig with the boom and gaff.. There are several lines that are easier set up but not tied off, before setting up all the standing rigging.. On a two or three mast ship it gets more complicated.. -
when to rig the shrouds to the deadeyes.
Gregory replied to bobc622's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Something I learned from you and Chuck is to set up as much of the running rigging as you can ( up to a point without tying off ) before permanently setting up the shrouds and stays. -
when to rig the shrouds to the deadeyes.
Gregory replied to bobc622's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have heard once or twice about rigging the deadeyes before setting the shrouds, but I don't think I have seen it demonstrated. If it works for you, perhaps you could share your method. The shrouds are seized in pairs, alternating port and starboard, so if you have already attached them to the deadeyes you would have to allow for some slack to be taken up. The shrouds are not actually attached to the mast. Actual practice is done in a certain way for reasons that work. For the most part actual practice works best on the model. Lay the shrouds then set the deadeyes with a lanyard. Using a spacer to set the lanyards may be helpful. It is easier to attain equal spacing on a full size rig without a spacer than it is on a model.. I borrowed some images from Glenn Barlow's Cheerful for good examples.. When you ask for help, the best we can do is show you how it is usually done. When you choose to use a different method, it is harder to provide guidance after the fact.
-
I would be interested in seeing any kit that showed the main stay collar with the detail of your drawing from Lees. The closest you will come is in some of the scratch build logs. Chuck' s Cheerful monograph and build log show very detailed rigging steps that could be used for a full rigged ship, but would be missing some of the elements like the main stay collar. Here are the instructions in the Model Shipways USS Constitution for a yard sling. There are no instructions for making the sling other than the image. This post in the Cheerful log has detailed images as well as precise instructions such as:
-
Replying to posts
Gregory replied to Neill's topic in Using the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT IN THIS SUB-FORUM**
It looks like you managed to reply in that topic.. What did you do to fix it?
Our Emblem ®
