Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Note: Keep in mind that Monfeld shows one side without sails, in which case, the yards are lower on the masts.. Here is a nice model at NMM showing the topsails lowered. Speedwell Another note, is that topgalant sails were often " set flying ". The yards were not present when no sails were rigged. They were rigged on the deck, and hoisted ( set flying ) when required... For modeling purposes, I think the yards without sails are often shown in a raised position, with the topgallant yards as well.
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Here is an example from Mondfeld: You can rig your Bounty with these drawings and feel you are doing it right.. If you are not going to include sails, you might consider leaving some lines off, such as clews, leech and bow lines.. Again it is up to you.
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Does Amati name the ropes, i.e., main topsail lift ? If they don't, using any good book that does, is way ahead of them.. For instance, Peterson will show you the main topsail lift and exactly how to run it and what the blocks and siezings should look like. It would serve the same purpose whether it is the Bounty or the Victory. If Amati is showing something different, I wouldn't waste time trying to follow their instructions. other than a rough starting point. Of course, you must proceed with what you are comfortable with, and I am sure you are learning a lot as you go along..
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One more book to think about later; Rigging Period Ship Models: This book has received some criticism because of perceived errors, but it is based on what the author observed on a contemporary model, and the model may have had an error or two. It is a great resource that shows how every line ran on a ship including the belaying point. Even though it would not be a point for point match for Bounty, one could easily extrapolate for a reasonably accurate match.. Here is an example of the drawings in the book: The author draws every rope on the model one at a time, showing exactly how it runs, with blocks, hooks and everything.
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The AOTS book is good to have, but the rigging diagrams are relatively small and not easy to sort out.. If i were going to recommend a book that covers rigging in the spirit that Roger speaks of it would be this: Historic Ship Models by Mondfeld. He goes into detail about each line and how it is used.. This would have always been the same across various ships, as Roger pointed out.
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
This is your log.. Post whatever you like! 🙂 -
Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Looking really good! Here are some pictures from the Mary plans, showing how the bowsprit is set up.. The end is stepped under the fife rail in front of the windless.. Might give you some ideas for setting yours up..
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Dying/coloring rope; sources for purchase of quality rope
Gregory replied to Tomculb's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The problem with dyeing/coloring, synthetics don't take color very well, and naturals; cotton, linen, etc. may not hold up well over time, with coloring. If coffee didn't work, it sounds like you are dealing with synthetic. One of our sponsors, CraftySailor has some that looks good in the pictures.. Not sure how competitive they are, But I have had real good experience buying other products from them.. And don't forget: Making your own rope
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Just another possibility for consideration. The Confederacy comes without rigging plans and is presented with this image. I think the bowsprit without the stub masts might look a little incongruous.. But, that is my personal opinion, and has no bearing on what is considered proper.. Consider the painting of Enterprize: No bowsprit, no masts.
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Found this Googling.. Bell Forest P.S. It's hard to Google " Holly Wood ".. Guess why? 😁 Try " Holly lumber "
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New spar-tapering tool from Bridge City Tools!
Gregory replied to Bob Cleek's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I was interested at $98, but $16 shipping seems unreasonable.. I might have pulled the trigger for $10. -
Pictures in wrong order
Gregory replied to Tomasz B's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
I don't know if this will help anyone, I have got in the habit of just opening a folder nearby where my pictures reside and just dragging and dropping my images to the current cursor position, rather than choosing and uploading pictures. Here is a little video that shows how I created the post that follows. Posting images.mp4 Then I drag another after moving my cursor to a new line... And another.. Now I continue typing my text and pictures are where I want them to be.. I can also go to the " Uploaded images " area and click on the trash can if I want to delete an image.. If I put an image in the wrong place, or want a different image, I just delete it with the trash can. Put my cursor where I want the new image, and drag the image to the cursor position.
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Don't forget Alaskan Yellow Cedar.. I was really impressed with how the grain showed up on Glenn Barlow's Cheerful. It reminds me of curly maple. Of course the effect would depend on the way the wood is sawn. Then not everyone wants to see dramatic grain patterns because they feel it is out of scale.
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I got side tracked last night, but later today I will show you the plans from Mary as to how the bowsprit is stepped. I think you will find it doable as well.. -
Nice concept.. I think the gammoning might still be an option that would fit in, but it would be up to you..
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I hate to be discouraging, but laser cutting is not generally considered 3D. You could get some 3D effects with a combination of engraving and cutting but it is a very complex process that would take multiple steps to produce useable parts. 3D renderings would have to come from 3D printers, CNC machines or a combination of these along with some possible laser cutting. If 3D drawings/ files of Titanic exist they would be in-house at some model manufacturing company. I do not expect you to find such drawings available to the general public. However, if anyone here is aware of such drawings/files, I'm sure they will let you know about what would be possible in acquiring them.
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Just a thought.. Those rails will really get in the way when you start doing some rigging; particularly the bowsprit gammoning.. You might think about getting all your parts ready and mounting them permanently at a later time..
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I'm sure Chuck may have other sources, but I have received very good wood and service from Ocooch.. They show a lot of thicknesses, but Chuck says if you don't see what you want they will help with custom orders. I have always found their email response to be very prompt.. They have accommodated me when I requested lighter or darker sheets. Color can vary quite a bit, but when I have placed an order for several sheets, they matched up pretty good within the order.
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Henry, here is a snip from a model that is very similar to Mary, but way superior.. You can see here how the builder chose to secure the bowsprit.. Here is a link to more pictures of this model. Be prepared to be blown away. I have often used it as a reference to try to improve my skills. Ship model yacht Max Emanuel Here is the story about the model: Historical background of the yacht Max Emanuel
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Dutch yacht by henry x - RESTORATION
Gregory replied to henry x's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I don't know if this will help, but on the Mamoli Yacht Mary, the bowsprit is set up to the side of the stem with gammoning going to a metal fitting that should be easy to fabricate. I will get you a shot of the plans later where it will be easier to see.
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I really can't say much more than has already been said.. You have made an attention to detail that I am not ready to tackle yet, but I will be referring to your methods often, in an effort to improve my skills. Something that caught my attention is the grain detail on your planking. It wasn't as obvious on the long shots of the hull, but now with the closeups of your channels, it really pops. It reminds me of curly maple. Beautiful !
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Formula for the thickness of rope on any scale ship
Gregory replied to flying_dutchman2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
See my edit! You are correct. Mondfeld obviously has an error in the print.. -
Formula for the thickness of rope on any scale ship
Gregory replied to flying_dutchman2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
OOps.. Let me recheck my work! You sound right. I have it now.. Its not .166 percent, its .166 period.. You are absolutely correct. I apologize for questioning you.. -
Formula for the thickness of rope on any scale ship
Gregory replied to flying_dutchman2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Are you saying the mainstay would be 498 inches in diameter? That doesn't sound right.. Whereas 5" sounds about right.. Even 49 inches ( 1.66% ) doesn't sound right either.. -
Formula for the thickness of rope on any scale ship
Gregory replied to flying_dutchman2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Mondfeldt says that the thickness (diameter ) of the mainstay shall be .166% of the diameter of the main mast at the deck . ( which deck? ) The percentages in the tables are a percentage of the mainstay as measured. So if the diameter of the main mast at the deck is 2'6" ( 30" ) then the main stay should be .166 x 30 = 4.98 ". The bowsprit gammoning should be 40% of this = .40 x 4.98 = 1.992 ", and so on. Obviously you can't proceed without the main mast measurement, and the confidence that it is correct. Someone else would have to establish if Mondfeld has a reliable basis for making these claims. I think someone could give this a go on a few ropes and see if it looks good as discussed above..
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