Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I'm with you on this.. We see many examples where the modeler and the kit plans want to show all the tackle and lines that would not be present in the absence of sails.. But then again, the list is long, of those conventions that modelers follow that have little basis in reality, but might be pleasing aesthetically, depending on one's taste.. I'm still trying to wrap my head around trying to rig the Constitution without a rigging plan..
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That is a pretty complicated question, since the sheet would be different depending on which yard it was on. Is the sheet your only problem? On the courses; main and fore, the sheet would reave through a block that was one of a three block configuration, as seen here on the plans for the MS Rattlesnake. I'm thinking it would be similar on the Constitution. As you can see, without a rigging plan, it probably wouldn't be practical to try to talk you through all the sheets on the Constitution. I noticed you asked another question about the MS Constitution rigging.. Are you having to work without a rigging plan?
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Ooops.. Commented without reading all of your original comments.. You can request admin to delete this if you like.. -
MSW Member Frankie recently made reference to a book about pond Yachts:
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I have purchased great quality cherry strips from ModelExpo. I have heard others say there was a problem with their boxwood, but can't speak from experience.
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Can someone give me a run down of Santa Maria kits?
Gregory replied to a topic in Wood ship model kits
If you go to the QUICK-FIND INDEXES to BUILD LOGS FOR KITS, you can go right to a list of SantaMaria builds and see what you think. I see about 25 logs with five showing finished, -
Unless I'm missing something, they don't seem to have a very good selection.. SEARCH RESULTS FOR 'HOOKS'
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Almost an inch full scale... I can't tell if you are joking or not..
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HMS VICTORY Wood Model Kit by Mamoli (1:90 scale)
Gregory replied to PMWinter's topic in Wood ship model kits
Same answer in the other topic you posted in.. All of the instructions for Mamoli kits are included on the plans sheets. There is no separate instruction manual. Daniel Dusek, the owner of Dusek/Mamoli is a member here. You might contact him and see if he offers the plans separately..- 5 replies
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I don't recall seeing the inhaul tackle modeled, while the outhauls seem to be almost mandatory these days.. If modelers feel such detail is important, why omit the inhaul? I remember when just the breaching rope was considered a nice touch.
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You might check with these folks: Hearne Hardwoods They seem to deal in large pieces, but maybe they would work something out with you on smaller pieces.. Here is a US dealer that might ship to Australia: Cook Woods
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FWIW, it looks like that clove hitch would still make a nice knot. Once you seal it with some white glue, you could clip the ends real close to the foot rope.. PS Clip it after you get it into position..
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Very nice! The rope looks really good.
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Why not use a seperate piece of rope for each knot, then tie on as many knots as you like, then slide them to create the spacing?
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Amazing how fair the run of those bulkheads are!
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Here is a little picture of my work.. Will try to find something with my method later. Here is the little jig I use to make coils. I move the nails and pins around to get the look I want. Also, a picture I use for inspiration.
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Are you referring to coils looped over belaying pins or coils on the deck ( or both ).. I don't have access to my photos right now, and I'm sure others will join in.. My method is to get the rope saturated with a very thin white glue mixture, and create a coil/bundle resembling photos I have found. I have a jig I use that I will show you later. Once the glue dries, there is still some flexibility, it behaves sort of like wire; and I proceed to set it up on the boat, keeping it in place with more white glue that isn't visible.
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For light wood, I would get some of the Cedar from Syren Ship Model Company. For the darker stuff, to add contrast, I have had good success with various woods from ModelExpo.. Mahogany, walnut and cherry.. They have a wide variety of strips ( no strips at Syren ) and sheets. The sheets will be a better value if you can cut your own strips. ( ModelExpo is offering free shipping today on orders of $50 or more.. ) Another option to consider is to use most of what is provided in the kit, and use veneer to cover details where you choose. You can get a variety of veneer from places like Rockler and Woodcraft.
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The FA is on my to-do list for a semi-scratch build someday... I have bookmarked your log, It will provide inspiration and expertise. Keep coming with the details!
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Zap this if you feel it clutters up your topic Chuck, but here is a little iron I found ant Michael's. It gets hot enough to make steam, but haven't charred any wood so far..
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Just because that is what happens to copper plates on a floating ship, it doesn't seem to me that it is a good reason to try to model it.. I don't think I have seen any model ships with barnacles on them, and if they exist it wouldn't be something I would find appealing.. Here is a thread I came across: The Best Copper Plates? Has some impressive examples..
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My only question in a roundabout way, was if Hahn was in error for drawing it this way? Apparently he was.. Thanks for your detailed and informative ..reply...
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I have just started working on a build of the Mamoli/Dusek Rattlesnake, and hope to start a build log soon. I am working on fabricating a built up stem/keel assembly beyond what the kit provides. I have other plans than those provided by Mamoli. I have the Harold Hahn plans from an article in the NRG Journal. I also have the Admiralty drawings from the NMM, and then I have the plans from ModelExpo which are based on drawings by George F. Campbell, which were based on the drawings from the NMM.. The NMM drawings do not show the gammoning slot.. For no particular good reason I was using the Hahn drawings to fabricate my stem, which pretty much matches the NMM and the Campbell/ModelExpo drawings as far as they go. A questionable interpretation is how Hahn depicts the gammoning slot. So, my question is; wouldn't that piece that includes the gammoning slot in the Hahn drawing be wrong? It seems to me that the stresses involved for this structure would not make for a workable configuration as drawn by Hahn. When all is said and done, that joint is not ( readily ) visible on a complete model with the head rails in place. But my question remains: Would that separate piece, not be a realistic working design?
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It sounds like it was a sale by and for Modelexpo.. If you have already contacted Mark, I would be surprised if he doesnt respond. A good 2nd route is their contact page : ModelExpo, I'm sure they will make it right..
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I wouldn't be surprised if there was considerable difference in appearance between groups of sheets at the time of installation. I recall seeing a model a while back where the builder used a propane torch to change the color of random plates, to create a sort of brickwork pattern..
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