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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. Eee, by gum, wefalk. I bow to your assertion. A quick nip over to the Wiki HMS Warrior pages confirms your view. I don't mind being wrong. Still, I'm surprised it was done that way.
  2. I don't think bronze would have been up to the weight of the gun, especially with the added stress on recoil. My guess is those tracks were hot rolled I-beam steel, let into the deck. Similar stuff was commonly used on rail-roads at that time. Iron would have been too brittle for the same reason. Even then there were grades of iron that didn't rust.
  3. And finally, here's my stripped, cleaned and freshly lubed Unimat3.
  4. Yup, I have the Heller Richelieu in the stash somewhere. As with all the pre-war battleships, when they fired the big guns the shock destroyed their own radar and most radio and electrical equipment. Still, when they got the chance, they could make a decent account of themselves. It wasn't until much later in the war when aircraft had such an overwhelming effect.
  5. I do so admire your understated colour choices with your models, Alex. It gives them great dignity.
  6. Thanks for that Literalman. So the Americans were there (one way or another) afterall. Intrigueing. Did they pick up any survivors after the Brits left?
  7. An un asked for tip.......a strip of rubber on the inside of one of the sides would give some friction, which would keep the pins where you wanted them to stay.
  8. It's such a shame Revell moulded the deck in two sections; the join is always an eye-sore. When I eventually get going on mine, I'm seriously considering making my own in one piece. Or cover it all with planking, either way it's a pain. I'm following your build and looking forward to seeing your progress.
  9. I whole heartedly agree with you, Dafi. Now the weight on the keel has been relieved should help considerably (much like what was done with Cutty Sark). Considering Britain's notorious weather, it's remarkable how well Victory survives. Unfortunately, I've never managed a visit and deeply regret realising I never will. I was a big fan of the longridge model, but often wonder why he never did a set of boats. It would be interesting to know more of him.
  10. Valeriy, your skills are rare gifts today. Did you teach yourself, or learn them as part of your occupation? I'm following your posts with awe.
  11. It's worth remembering that nearly all the outer hull planking was replaced years ago. In some areas wood laminates were used to save money. It would seem a lot of the modern materials used during the previous (but modern) re-fit has already rotted and has been replaced again! See thorough description of this previous work in Alan McGowan's book 'HMS Victory: Her Construction, Career, and Restoration'. One important use (among many) was synthetic materials for the shrouds which aren't as thick as they should be (same book). The list is probably endless.
  12. Joseph, your models are sublime. Thank you for sharing.

    1. Joe100

      Joe100

      Thank you, glad you like!

  13. For that price it would be cheaper to get some craftsman to make them or make them yourself.
  14. Bob, I agree, the SL is a lovely bit of kit. I've enjoyed servicing them. Of course they have their limitations, but for model making and small projects they have a long and fine pedigree. I'm in the lucky position, where I can use one as a regular lathe and set the other up in milling mode and still have room on my table for breakfast, LOL. I've even seen (on this forum) a pair set up in tandem to turn long masts. Now that was thinking out of the box and impressed me. I do have the manual and several books about using the Unimat, so am aware of the motor issue. Here in the UK, on ebay, it's amazing to see examples in appalling deep rusty condition fetching silly money. Clearly there's a market; but who's buying this stuff? Your comment suggesting someone would do us all a favour and make clones. Hasn't this forum got strong views on such things? Shame on you. Take care; be kind.
  15. Hi Bruce. I've just completed a full strip-down, check over and lube job as you suggest. I've had them sitting in a drawer for 25/30 years. Neither seems to have much previous use. The 'standard' chuck is as new, the other had some bruising which I eased out. The unusual version, on close inspection is identical (machining and stamping) so there's a good chance it's a Unimat component. Both motors are fine and remarkably had new brushes installed. All up and raring to go! Oh, I also have the associated milling post fittings and a slow speed bracket for each and a dividing head, various adaptors (12/14mm to use stuff from my Unimat 3) and sundry other accessories. It would be nice to have a 'steady'.
  16. Just a few photo's of my now restored lathes and my extemporised workstation from dumpster materials. Realised one of the tailstocks is mounted the wrong way! Note the chuck jaw differences (how and why?) I also made a circular saw table to fit, then put together a free standing mini saw bench which you may find interesting (again, using scrap materials and hand tools).
  17. Managed to see this film and thoroughly enjoyed the ride. CGI is a game changer. I suspected a Fletcher on Atlantic convoy duty at that time was iffy; thanks for confirming that, Jud. Whatever the detail faults, I felt it was a convincing fictional drama of a much neglected aspect of 'The longest battle'.
  18. Just got to admire your skill and determination. I do understand this build is your own very personal interpretation of an old bogey. Somehow it looks like a film prop from the 1940's. Well done and thanks for sharing so much.
  19. Nah, mate. Those are real individual rivets. This build is a constant delight. No doubt those cranes are so good, they'll give you a lift next time you are feeling down.
  20. Back with a bump! After examining the tailstock spindle in my other lathe, it was clear the spindle is blind bored from both ends. The centre's are a very snug fit in the front bore and have a steep (45degree?) taper land. There is no provision to drift it out if it gets stuck. The cure was application of gentle heat; the temperature differential released the stuck centre! Job done. Like most things mechanical, the best care is to use it and/or do the periodic servicing. Thank you to Bob and Bruce for their welcome interest.
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