allanyed

Based on the years 1765 for San Juan Nepomuceno and 1794 for Montanes, if the Spanish ships were close to the British when belaying pins came into standard use (about 1770), the SJN would NOT have pins, but the Montanes would have them. If you are interested in accuracy check everything from these two kit makers against contemporary information before using them. Based on the build logs here at MSW, all the kits from both are loaded with incorrect parts and designs. Definitely check the diameter of the pins. At a scale of 1:70 for the Montanes, the handle diameter should be no more than about 0.025". At this size, wood will be difficult to work with and maybe weak, so consider brass that is painted or other wise colored brown. Allan

Out of curiosity, what are the kit lengths for the yawl, pinnace, and long boat and those of Marquardt? I could not find the lengths for her boats specifically only for ships of war in the time frame for Endeavour. Thanks Peter Allan

Good day to you and welcome to MSW Dobbrick! Please post in English. Google or some other translator is pretty close except for some nautical terms. Good morning Have a question about the Revenge Amati. Where do I place the barrels and buckets that come with it Allan

Penfold, the second layer is much neater. Congratulations. For the future keep in mind the strakes are tapered and end at the rabbet fore and aft, not on another plank, except for the occasional drop strake or stealer. If you wish, take the time to study the tutorials for how to put in planking that is realistic. Is the method you show from the kit instructions? It is seen on a number of kit builds here at MSW but no ship was ever planked this way. Allan

On whatever decks there were hammocks would be appropriate. Allan

Hi Daniel I have always used carpenter's glue for wood to wood. I have no had issues with the blackened glue or tape or pencil lines in 40 years so not a bad track record. The blackened glue also works well for keel and other similar items where the joints would show. So little is needed to darken the mass that it does not weaken the bonding action at all. Allan

I agree that they are very hard to make at most scales we see here, but as you are showing so much fine detail inboard, the battens themselves would still be nice touch as they are rarely seen on models. Allan

As a novice, SERIOUSLY consider starting with the three boat series from Model Shipway designed by David Antscherl. You will learn proper techniques and wind up with realistic looking models. Study the kit build logs, look at the details and end results of all the brands, then note the few brands that are being built far more often, including Syren, MS, and Vanguard. There is a reason for this. Allan

Your Terror is one of the best renditions I have seen, kudos!! It is a shame that the kit maker knows nothing about sails and puts what another member here at MSW likened to door mats in the box. This has been a gripe for many builders and why they look for alternative solutions. Just as a comparison of a sail and the thing the kit supplied, the below might be more clear. The dimensional information on the sketch on the right comes from sources based on contemporary information, including Lees' Masting and Rigging. The dimensions may be a bit off but if you or someone building this kit can give me the length of the yard I can give more accurate dimensions on the kit sail to make a more fair comparison. I left off quite a few of the additional reinforcing panels on the drawing, but these can be found in a number of books and probably on line. Allan

You are absolutely correct EZ, but unfortunately, many kit builders are not very experienced thus a little naïve as would be expected, so they do not know that many kits are loaded with mistakes. For some, the research is as much fun and definitely as satisfying when there is the VOILA moment that you find a mistake and know you can fix it! There are a couple kit makers that do a much more credible job of it and they too are in business to make a profit, so it can be done. All anyone has to do is look how many kits are in the various build logs and which manufacturers continue to gain more customers and which are not thanks to the former having high quality products. Allan

Daniel, As it is a predominant part of the finished model, you may want to consider buying some replacement strips of wood and remaking the deck. At your scale, acrylic paint or black tissue paper are great ways to indicate the tarred seams. I tried several methods when we were working on the Euryalus project and included the following: From Volume 2 of Frigates of the Royal Navy, HMS Euryalus page 10 .........The first is to use tinted glue. In requires only a single small drop of black or burnt umber gouache or acrylic artist paint to a puddle of aliphatic glue. We recommend making a batch with a small bottle of glue rather than many small batches. Add enough paint to give a dark tint to the glue and keep track of the ratio of paint to glue. In this way, additional batches can be made with the same tint level. Using this method, glue must be carefully applied to the entire edge of a plank without breaks. If the builder has concerns about the glue being weak, untinted glue can be used where the plank fays to the frames and tinted glue on the edges of the planks. The next method is to paint the edge of the plank. Acrylic artist colors are readily found and one small bottle will be enough for the entire model. Use this right out of the bottle or tube, do not thin it. Once the paint has dried, the plank is glued in place. Any paint that may get on the outboard face of the plank will be scraped or sanded away once the hull is finished. The edges can be darkened with a pencil in place of the paint. This is far easier and presents a similar result. The last method that we used was simulating the caulking with tissue wrapping paper that is often used inside gift boxes. The material is found in most craft stores in a variety of colors and is much thinner than craft or construction paper. Black craft paper is far too thick for ⅛″scale, and may appear a bit heavy to some even for ¼″ scale. Once the plank is ready to be installed, a bead of thinned white glue is run on one edge. Allan

EZ, I hope Clementine, who has done an admirable job on his build, would agree that you should not be afraid to research each part before you put it in place. Some kit makers do not appear to spend much time on research before putting out a kit, or, if they do, they ignore it, but fortunately many of their mistakes can be fixed as you move along on the build. Allan

Techtonic There have been a few nice looking cloth sail sets in recent logs and it would really be super if those builders prepared a short write up on their methods that could go into the articles data base. Sadly, there have also been many that look awful, including pre-sewn sails from most kit makers. Bad sails plus the fact that most of the rigging is blocked from view is possibly why so many model makers from the 17th through the 21st centuries leave off the sails. In the end, of course we should all go with what makes us happy😁 Allan

This entire topic has been fascinating and extremely informative. I truly hope I never have to go back to this string for using the information. 😀 Allan

Maybe hammock battens on the sides of the deck beams where they were normally secured and a few hammocks hung from those battens? Allan

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Your model is really looking good. I fully realize there are proponents of using cloth sails that are not so concerned with scale and the choice is always that of the model builder. Keep in mind that at 1:72 there is no cloth in existence or sewing method that will be to scale and many feel will detract from all the beauty you have put into your model to this point. Maybe consider non-woven materials. The $7 booklet on making sails by David Antsherl from SeaWatch books is a great guide on making realistic sails. Tom Lauria has a two part video on sail making that you may find helpful as well.

If you consider 3D printed barrels, the price is very low. Figure about $0.30-$0.50 each. All you need is an appropriate drawing in STL or other format that is 3D printer friendly. Check out the below for more details and a couple pics. These happen to be 17th century barrels (note the tapered trunnions for this era) but others are certainly doable as you can see in responding posts. Allan

Assuming the round holes, which really should be six or eight sided, are for the pumps and the square holes are for the bitt pins, why would you want to block them? Your photo shows you have the contemporary drawings. Do you have the deck drawings as well? https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86459 has all of them. Allan

Scrubbyj427 I would be happy to help out in 2D based on the many scaled drawings of barrels and carriages in Caruana's book. I only have volume 2 which goes from 1715 to 1815, but if anyone can provide earlier drawings I can do them in 2D for you to convert to 3D STLs. Might take awhile, but I would give it a go for you. Allan

You are absolutely correct. This is the reason to check everything before putting it permanently in place, whether scratch built or kit supplied. There are thousands of contemporary plans and models to check against that are available for free on line at RMG, Wiki Commons etc. so why not use them? There is a myriad of books available based on contemporary information for those that wish to expand their library as well. Allan

Below is text and a picture from David Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, page 42. "A deadeye was turned in the end, left handed if shroud laid rope was used, right handed if cable laid." I think this would have the ends finishing up aft on the port side and forward on the starboard side for cable laid rope as Henry mentions. This view is from inboard.

You may get more responses on particular methods for the different parts from corroded guns to moldy deck if the pictures were all right side up. 😀🤪🤪 I got dizzy looking at them. When was the model built? With all the other issues, it is good to see the rigging seems to have held up regarding aging. Matching this is something to watch for regarding material and color, making sure it is miniature rope, not thread from the local craft center. Good luck. Allan

Shipaholic I agree based on a few sources mentioned above. Hopefully you have others you can share. The truss pendants replaced parrels on the lower yards and were around much longer than in the Endeavour era, lasting from 1760 to 1850. The rope pendants did change in that they rove downwards from 1760-1810 then upwards to blocks in the trestle trees from 1810 to 1850 and finally replaced with chain pendants from about 1850 on. Allan

No offense at all, just curious if that is what your friends call you. I have been called far worse over the years so no worries using Weedboy 11😀 Allan