Jump to content

yvesvidal

Members
  • Posts

    3,445
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by yvesvidal

  1. Thank you 7Youngs. I did find some details and will present them soon. That is a very nice set that you got. Yves
  2. Kevin, Very nice jetty that you are building. May I suggest you stagger the rails so as not to have their links at the same place. You could also use metal rails from Scale One (1/32) or even G scale (1/29). Brass rails can be purchased individually for these scales. Yves
  3. For the aficionados of Type VII-c, here are a few drawings representing the Control Room being worked on at this time: The Tank view clearly shows how the various fuel tanks are arranged inside the pressure hull. The Control room is basically sitting on top of the fuel tanks and the main ballast of a capacity of 47.75 cubic meters. On the top view, you can see the well for the attack periscope which is missing in the Trumpeter kit. The blue-print also shows the various curvatures of the control room and the fuel tanks. Trumpeter could have provided some convex bulkheads for that room, but they decide otherwise, to make the final assembly in the hull, easier. Too bad, it would have been an interesting feature. Another blatant mistake from Trumpeter is the curvature of the Control Room floor. I have already mentioned that limitation and this is how it should have looked like: Of course, the entire internal arrangement of the hull would have had to be modified, but it would have been so cool to have this feature represented, at least partially (from left to a partial right on the drawing, as to allow the viewers to peruse into the compartment. I thought about doing it, but the modifications are way too extreme and decided against it. Yves
  4. Just a quick update. I am working on the rear bulkhead and will not glue or install the front bulkhead, until I am done with both of them. It is in fact really difficult to paint and glue all the small parts if you do not have a direct access to the bulkheads. So, the rear one is pretty much completed: As indicated, this fuel tank (picture below) will be painted after gluing the front bulkhead. Then resin will be poured to match the level of the front fuel tank, in the forward compartment. Finally, more resin will be poured to simulate some sea water in the main ballast. All this "liquid" will do for a rather heavy module at the end. Yves
  5. Superb model and details Cathead. I like the painting/poster of the Arabia, that you have on your bench. Yves
  6. A couple more pictures to situate the action: This is the left over space in the hull that will accommodate the two compartments under construction. View of the Control Room floor. Notice the hole drilled and the tube allowing the attack periscope to slide down in the guts of the beast: View of the main ballast, before any sea water is poured into it (below): The tank located under the control room *below): And the two ends of the rear fuel tank: You can notice the different appearance of the resin mixed at (too) low temperature (left) and at correct temperature (right). Since these two sections are separated by the outside hull and not much of them is visible, it does not come as a blatant contrast. Still, I wish I had waited one more day before pouring that very sensitive resin. One day was in the 50's, the following in the low 80's. Yves
  7. Yes, very true. You described the mechanism very well. Here is a picture to illustrate the concept: Yves
  8. The next compartment is the Control room. All these compartments are linked to each other by the fuel tanks located underneath. It is therefore essential to build them almost at the same time for a perfect continuity. Thus, I started the Control room which is probably the most ambitious project as you will see. The lower level of the Control Room is composed of: Front Fuel tank....Main Ballast....Rear Fuel tank. Of course, Trumpeter did not see the need to represent any of these three sections and instead gave us a "semi" container for the periscope mechanism and well, and a few bulkheads. The result is a pale approximation of what this compartment is about. So, let's look at how we can improve on the kit: I decided to build a pressure hull and to install in it, the three tanks referenced earlier. I am using a lid from a NEST packaging (cut in half, to represent the convex bulkheads facing the fuel tanks. Tat lid is exactly of the right diameter and fits perfectly against the Trumpeter bulkheads. It does take a lot of fine tuning and adjustments to make it work, but I think I managed to create something that looks realistic. The pressure hull is made with a sheet of 0.5 mm thick, 16 cm long and about 11.5 cm wide. Above, you can see the front section of the rear fuel tank (extension of what is around the rear batteries compartment). From the other side, this is what we have: With both convex bulkheads installed and the resin poured in the rear fuel tank: Of course, the level of fuel matches the level we saw in the previous compartment: The main ballast structure requires a lot of work, cutting and sanding to bring it to something slightly more prototypical: Everything is glued under the control room floor. A tube (left on the picture) is added to represent the well of the attack periscope. That detail is missing from the Trumpeter kit (anybody surprised ?) The main ballast is painted with anti-fouling color: And the pressure hull is slightly opened to show the intricacies of the main ballast structure: Next step: glue the control room floor and start populating the rear bulkhead with all its details, before installing the front bulkhead and pouring resin in the front fuel tank. The main ballast will also have some water "poured" into it, for extra realism. Yves
  9. I have been doing some experiments with some acrylic resin. I am mildly happy with the results. As some of you who are following closely the development of that insanity know, I am trying to replicate the fuel tanks located on each side and under the control room and spanning into the living quarters modules, around the batteries compartments. Because we are using that resin on a delicate plastic model, the Polyester resin with its fast polymerization cannot be used: the heat generated during the hardening reaction is simply too much for the plastic parts surrounding the resin. Therefore, I decided to go with Acrylic resin which presents a certain number of good points when compared to the polyester resin: - Less toxic - Less stinky - Almost no heat during the reaction - More affordable - Crystal clear - Compatible with Acrylic paints - Long working time (40 minutes) - Easier to clean (alcohol or soap) - Very small shrinking once hardened. The only drawbacks I noticed are the following: - Extremely temperature sensitive - Need to mix perfect 1:1 ratio - Mixing time of at least 3-4 minutes (no less) - Very long to harden (24 hours to 48 hours at high temperature). What I am using is this product: My first attempt was not perfect but gave a very realistic results (even more realistic than when perfect): The top surface has a lot of small bubbles mimicking the motion of the fuel into the tank, while the submarine is under way. When I did the first attempt, the temperature during the mixing of the resin was a little bit too low (they recommend 72-78). Mixing the resin during 4 minutes created some tiny air bubbles that had a hard time getting to the surface and disappearing. As you can see, the mold is nothing more than two pieces of scotch tape to prevent the resin from running away. Once the resin is cured, the tape is removed and we have a perfect wall of fuel in the tank. Yves
  10. Kevin, I like you, love diorama. However, in this case, your model is so beautiful and full of details that I fear its intrinsic perfection is going to be drowned in the diorama. In addition, this model is big and to make the diorama realistic, it will have to be really large. Now, whatever decision you go with, I will follow with interest. Yves
  11. Oh...I see a Calypso on the window sill. Is that the Billing Boat kit or the Revell Kit? If it was the Billing Boats, then your window would be really large.... You do have quite a collection of models. Yves
  12. That Putty is amazing. Thanks for posting that video CDW. I am currently using Squadron Petroleum based Putty, but I do not like it: dries too fast, smells and a pain in the neck to clean the tools. Yves
  13. Trident Models has been teasing us with gorgeous pictures of the Alert Model, but no information on the kit, its price, availability or even if it will be allowed on this forum, has come to light. There are two previous threads on that Trident Models Alert kit, and both ended up nowhere. We need facts!!! Yves
  14. Absolutely stunning. I think "Master Korabel" should use your model for the box artwork and pictures of the finished model, in the instructions. What a Masterpiece!!! Yves
  15. Module is almost completed. A few more details, the ceiling/pressure hull and it will be over. In the meantime, enjoy some shots: The fuel tank (below) surrounding the batteries room: The sleeping quarter, also used for eating and relaxing (as far as you can relax inside a submarine): Galley, pantry and toilet room: Lots of magazines (propaganda) and Nazis ideology posters on the walls: Magazines are made of a cover printed at scale and glued on a thin cardboard sheet. All covers are authentic Kriegsmarine and Adler publications from the early 40's. Girls are the Olympic champions of 1936, held in Berlin. Aerial view of the galley: I still have to solder some electrical wires, glue the ceiling and fill up the tank. Some painting on the outside and the main air hose to be added on top of the pressure hull, and the module will be ready to rest in the hull. Yves
  16. That is Trumpeter choice and reasoning. As someone mentioned it before, I suspect that these independent modules were designed by different groups and ended up with a different level of quality and details. I thought about it. The hard part is to find the perishables..... actually, I have a lot in my fridge right now 🙂 Honestly, I have a trail and need to order a couple of things. Yves
  17. Very well done. Congratulations. I would place a couple of lines to tie the vessel to the pier. The illusion will then be complete. Yves
  18. Installation of four white LEDs on the ceiling/pressure hull: The "Cook Hatch" has been improved with a large wheel (not in the kit). Wiring of the LEDs in series (4 x 3 volts = 12 Volts). Some putty blobs to prevent light leaks. Once painted, they should prevent any unpleasant light leaking outside of the pressure hull. All this will not be visible once the hull is closed. Also working on the bulkhead of the control room. Openings have to match: All this is to help represent the large rear fuel tank, located around the rear officer compartment and under the control room. Back to the sub-officer and kitchen compartment, Trumpeter screwed up royally by mixing up the toilet room and the pantry. Instead of the necessary appliances, Trumpeter is giving us a wooden box..... Very useful to dump a c...!!! I have built a small platform to install the second set of toilet bowl and sink (which is of course not provided in the original kit). They could have offered a second set to populate that very visible room..... But no! Let's not forget the toilet paper....apparently a very valuable (and rare) item, nowadays. View on the ducting bringing fresh air: Very soon, we will be closing the lid on the batteries room: Hope you enjoy. Yves
×
×
  • Create New...