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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Brilliant, Ed. I would have thought that forming the spokes and adding them later would have been the way to go but your method is both simple and elegant. Were there any issues with deflection of the disk while machining the spokes and boring the holes? Doesn't seem like a lot of contact between the jaws and the disk.
  2. dvm27
    Just marvellous, Siggi. It reflects very favorably on Georgian/Navy Board contemporary models in museums. What's next in the Siggi shipyard?
  3. dvm27
    Don't believe it, Maury. I've visited Druxey's workshop and you could do surgery there!
  4. dvm27
    Cannon and carriages look very nice, Maury. I now use matte black automotive primer, several lightly sprayed coats, to blacken many of my brass items. It has the advantage of filling in small defects and blending mated parts into one. It also imparts a slight texture to the surface, which is reminiscent of iron.
  5. dvm27
    Great video, Jay. Two small tips for novice machinists: 1. If you want to turn wood down to a very small diameter use an oversized piece of wood in the headstock and only work on small lengths (perhaps 1") at a time. The minimizes deflection. 2. When parting off small, repetitive pieces with a drilled out center (such as cannon wheels) insert a length of thin wire down the center with plenty of overhang. The wheel will stay on the wire when parted as opposed to flying across the workshop.
  6. dvm27
    If there is a ship modeler who nailed the bollard timbers on the first attempt I'd like to shake his or her hand, Gary. Looks terrific no matter how many attempts it took. I don't know if it was in Ed's book or your idea, but installing the foremost cant frames now as you have done makes the fitting of the hawse timbers much easier and more accurate. Welcome to the "#11 stabbed-myself-with-a-blade-or-chisel club". As a multiple offender, I opine that there is no difference in outcomes between spending a day (and $'s) at an ER with painful lidocaine injections and sutures vs. closing the wound with a bandaid so long as the wound edges are in contact. Unless, of course, you are a hand model.
  7. dvm27
    At last - a Druxey build log! Between this one and Glen's we get to see how professional ship model makers approach our hobby.
  8. dvm27
    It looks like a floating bathtub, yet you've managed to make it beautiful. Is your lab webcam permanently disabled. It was fascinating watching you build in real time.
  9. dvm27
    Beautiful, Dan. Makes me wish you had taken and posted higher resolution photos here. Isn't ther also a model of Boston in the Smithsonian Museum by Robert Bruckshaw? Always loved it's lines.
  10. dvm27
    That's a beautiful mother/daughter photo, Ed. It would be a shame to leave junior in it's unfinished state as she is so lovely. But I can understand how burned out you may be after rigging the larger one. Is there any task more repetitive than rigging a clipper ship?
  11. dvm27
    I know copyright has been discussed ad-infinitum here but this dovetails into the post by Chuck the other day on pulling photos from the interned and posting them here. There are companies that troll the internet on behalf of photo distributors searching for copyright protected photographs. Once they locate one, they contact the owner and strong arm the offender with threats and a high fee to resolve the grievance. One of my employees saw a cute photo of a dog with a bandaged leg and put it on our website a while ago. I received a strongly worded e-mail to take it down immediatly and pay them $800 or the fee would continue to rise. I did some research to discover the photo distributor and am in the process of negotiating a settlement, thereby bypassing the heavy-handed third party. Our web posting protocol has now been heavily modified and, if Chuck seems paranoid about random photos and material, it's because there are people out there looking for such offences and wanting to profit from them. An expensive lesson for me
  12. dvm27
    Sorry for your staining issues, Remco. All my Fiebings-dyed wales are as black as the day I applied them. But, I have never placed any other finish over them. Perhaps there was some sort of interaction between the dye and the oil. Based on your log I have no doubt you'll get it sorted out.
  13. dvm27
    Nice job on the port and sweep linings. Fun? Maybe the first few, but after that a lot of tedium!
  14. dvm27
    Very nice mast step, Danny, and beautiful wood palette you've chosen.
  15. dvm27
    Would love to see some more photographs of your lovely model. What scale are you building at?
  16. dvm27
    Great work and planning Marsalv. The hanging knees are the most difficult to fit but for some reason I usually install the beams and lodging knees first. Your building sequence makes a lot of sense.
  17. dvm27
    Having a solid wall of timber is probably not the best idea, as I found out on my Speedwell model, Mike. There are gaps between the fillers in the winter. I have filled them with sawdust and glue and they have appeared elsewhere. They'll probably disappear as the humidity rises, as you perdict. I am reminded of the problem Franklin had when building his beautiful model Egmont (which was purchased by the NMM). He noted that his hull shrank almost 1/4" after framing as the humidity decreased. He applied a wet towel overnight and the length of the hull was the full 1/4" longer the following day. He then applied the wales and the problem was solved. if there's one thing I learned after watching This Old House for 30+ years is that wood is a living material that expands and contracts. One must always compensate for this (although I'm not quite sure how this could be done with a full set of filler frames unless the model was kept in an environment with consistant humidity forever).
  18. dvm27
    Eye candy, Remco. The hammock battens make your model unique, I think.
  19. dvm27
    According to Goodwin, The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650 - 1850, "The most common (scarph) was the butt and coak method and like all the methods used the scarph was set in the vertical". This corresponds to David White's excellent series of articles in Model Shipwright. Perhaps the vertical scarph joint presents less exposed area for water to seep into and promote rot within the keel.
  20. dvm27
    Sweet work Danny. Those inlets fit the recesses perfectly. Are you going to leave part of the pump well unplanked so people can see details like these?
  21. dvm27
    When using paper to simulate caulking between joints I make numerous pricks throught the paper everywhere but at the edges before gluing. Perhaps this allows better glue adhesion. In addition I use bamboo treenails glued, or brass wire epoxied, to reinforce the joint. As yet, I have had no papered joint faliures. The most perfect joints result from using slightly oversized scantlings and reducing them too finished dimensions on the Byrnes thickness sander.
  22. dvm27
    I've used both pigmented glue and black kraft paper to good effect. Do one further test before you proceed. Liberally apply isopropyl alcohol to a test joint to see if the stain runs during the debonding process. I've had some adjacent pigment bleed during the process. Or, never make a mistake and this won't be an issue.
  23. dvm27
    Great looking model, Daniel! I also checked out your website and there are some amazing models there!
  24. dvm27
    Looks terrific, Dave. I fit out just one-half of mine and it makes for a very nice display.
  25. dvm27
    Looking great, Gary. You 're obviously very comfortable working with wood. The scarph joint between your upper and lower apron appears to be S-shaped on your mock-up. I believe the actual scarph joint consists of three flat surfaces, much like the upper apron, but much shorter.

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