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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Wonderful work, Mike. She looks like a full sized vessel in the yard.
  2. dvm27
    Whatever floats you boat Maury. Hacksaw or small slitting blade (.020-ish) on your table saw would do fine.
  3. dvm27
    Love your work, Augie. Very clean. Surprised you can find any shop time with the little ones probably all over the place by now.
  4. dvm27
    You could mill a veritcal slit from the bottom of the rhoding to just even with the top of the axeltrees. Once you've slid the rhoding down into place the remaining slit opening should be almost inperceptible.
  5. dvm27
    Toni's right. Just position them inboard (like Toni did) and no one will ever know there's a clearance issue. Are you retrofitting the cistern rhodings? I see you have the surfaces shaped to receive them.
  6. dvm27
    Of course a mill makes this easy to do but you can accomplish the same result with a chisel. It needs to be very well honed (most newly purchased chisels are not) and the proper width for the mortise. Score stop cuts on the sides and bottom first then remove the wood in between with light passes. {practice on some scrap first!
  7. dvm27
    Nice work Maury. Like the way you soldered everything with those rhodings in place.
  8. dvm27
    Actually, Tom, I believe lathes have been around for centuries in one form or another. There are some tasks that just can't be accomplished easily by hand tools. I also get considerable "warmth" from setting up my Sherline mill to make complicated cuts. I suspect that Nirvana and others using laser cutters and 3-D printers derive the same satisfaction, as it takes considerable knowlege and skill to set up and execute these programs. Chacun son gout!
  9. dvm27
    That's exactly what I did, Danny. I constructed a cross-section of my Swan class Pegasus model. It was a lot of fun and actually fits on a shelf above my desk.
  10. dvm27
    That's a clever jig for scoring the rising wood to accept the frames. Part of the fun of using a mill is figuring out the setups. I would make sure the pattern is marked out on top of the rising wood and checked every few passes. Even with the spacer, cumulative error can creep in and the last few mortices could be off by an inch or so. For those without a mill, you can accomplish the same result using a table saw with a .052 or larger blade set to the correct height. The pattern is affixed to the side of the rising wood with rubber cement (or your preference) and successive cuts made. Note - in the photo the sides are also scored.
  11. dvm27
    Perfectly executed hammock battens, Remco!
  12. dvm27
    Looking forward to this build John. I am currently finishing an Echo class cross-section which has a very French influence. Very elegant lines. Thanks also for the cross references on the building terms. Some translations are easy somet terms such as elancement are a bit trickier.
  13. dvm27
    This book will be available in the US from IPG Publishers in October. The postal costs will be much diminished by purchasing it in the US.
  14. dvm27
    Congratulations on the completion of a truly outstanding Swan class model, Danny!
  15. dvm27
    Perfect, as always, Remco. Did you use a duplicator on the lathe for the pillars or freehand them? The sail room is magnificent
  16. dvm27
    Ivan is an amazing talent, Karl. I often wonder about the wisdom of having such elaborately carved figureheads adorning ships of war (not Royal barges and the like - those I understand). With the high cost of the carvings and undoubtable high cost of replacement why would they be placed on naval vessels? If I were an enemy gunner I'd take personal pride in knocking it off. I seem to recall however, that the actual number of vessels that ever saw battle was quite low so perhaps damage to them was rather rare.
  17. dvm27
    That look's terrific, Ben. You may wish to add a temporary batten at the toptomber line as the whole assembly is pretty fragile. I believe both Toni and myself have snapped off portions with errant elbows.
  18. dvm27
    Have to agree with M. Wellington. The single color looks cleaner and less fussy.
  19. dvm27
    Well if you can't live with the results I would be happy to take it off your hands, Alex! Love especially the square to round galley cowl.
  20. dvm27
    Beautiful, Alex. Not many models can stand up to close up photography like yours. The plated and riveted galley funnel blew me away.
  21. dvm27
    John - I use the knurled knob for moving the piece and just use a push stick to sandwich the end against the jig until the cut begins. It will stay in place once the blade starts cutting. The key, as always, is in the setup. It takes some trial and error to establish the correct angle and point of initial plunge cut into the wood. Once established, I make all the cuts on the blanks at the same time. Then the opposite end setup is established and the process repeated. Some adjustment may be necessary at the bow and stern due to tapering or widening of the strakes. However, my clever solution of only showing a small section of planked hull avoids this!
  22. dvm27
    Thank for the link to the beautiful model, Wayne. Certainly useful for anyone contemplating building one. I was trying to figure out the scale as it is so detailed.The size of the model works out to @ 13" x 10" x 10" so that explains the quality and level of detail.
  23. dvm27
    Here's how I did it. Cut all the fore faces then the rear ones. Just used a push stick.
  24. dvm27
    Beautiful, Doris. The fit and finish of the elements in the Royal quarters compares with the finest of doll houses. I wonder what would happen if you entered the model in a doll house exhibition? I bet they'd be blown away. Pass me a slice of that watermelon!
  25. dvm27
    It's a perfect little jewel, Alex. How did you attach those oven doors? Epoxy? I assume those are faux hinges.

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