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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Ivan is an amazing talent, Karl. I often wonder about the wisdom of having such elaborately carved figureheads adorning ships of war (not Royal barges and the like - those I understand). With the high cost of the carvings and undoubtable high cost of replacement why would they be placed on naval vessels? If I were an enemy gunner I'd take personal pride in knocking it off. I seem to recall however, that the actual number of vessels that ever saw battle was quite low so perhaps damage to them was rather rare.
  2. That look's terrific, Ben. You may wish to add a temporary batten at the toptomber line as the whole assembly is pretty fragile. I believe both Toni and myself have snapped off portions with errant elbows.
  3. Have to agree with M. Wellington. The single color looks cleaner and less fussy.
  4. Well if you can't live with the results I would be happy to take it off your hands, Alex! Love especially the square to round galley cowl.
  5. Beautiful, Alex. Not many models can stand up to close up photography like yours. The plated and riveted galley funnel blew me away.
  6. John - I use the knurled knob for moving the piece and just use a push stick to sandwich the end against the jig until the cut begins. It will stay in place once the blade starts cutting. The key, as always, is in the setup. It takes some trial and error to establish the correct angle and point of initial plunge cut into the wood. Once established, I make all the cuts on the blanks at the same time. Then the opposite end setup is established and the process repeated. Some adjustment may be necessary at the bow and stern due to tapering or widening of the strakes. However, my clever solution of only showing a small section of planked hull avoids this!
  7. Thank for the link to the beautiful model, Wayne. Certainly useful for anyone contemplating building one. I was trying to figure out the scale as it is so detailed.The size of the model works out to @ 13" x 10" x 10" so that explains the quality and level of detail.
  8. Here's how I did it. Cut all the fore faces then the rear ones. Just used a push stick.
  9. Beautiful, Doris. The fit and finish of the elements in the Royal quarters compares with the finest of doll houses. I wonder what would happen if you entered the model in a doll house exhibition? I bet they'd be blown away. Pass me a slice of that watermelon!
  10. It's a perfect little jewel, Alex. How did you attach those oven doors? Epoxy? I assume those are faux hinges.
  11. The wales of this Echo class cross-sectional model are holly, blackened with Fiebings leather dye. Staining was done off the model. I used three coats, lightly sanded in between, added one coat of dilute sanding sealer and finished with a light buffing of 0000 steel wool. Treenails were added after gluing in place and touched up with more dye on a very fine paint brush. I wear disposable gloves and treat the dye like it is a potential disaster in the making...which it is if spilled or seeps into adjacent work.
  12. I love your wilder mane version, Ben. I have the tamer dreads on my Pegasus. David probably matched them to our personalities. Hopefully others will note the way the tail is included in both starboard and port views as was done with classical lion and equestrian figureheads.
  13. Just found your build log, Mark. She's a beauty of a ship as well as model. Love your photos and techniques.
  14. Wonderful work, Alex. Will you be spray painting her or blackening with a chemical agent?
  15. There are a million picture editing programs out there but if your computer comes with Word you can easily resize them there. Choose the "web large" option under the "edit pictures" tab to do this.
  16. Jim - the palette I used for the hull planking is boxwood, ebonized holly (Feibings leather dye) for the wales and black strake and holly below the wales. Boxwood for all framing components and holly for the deck. Bamboo treenails. Watcos Danish oil is used for the boxwood and dilute sanding sealer for the holly (does not impart a yellowish hue like Watcos). I should add that I first saw these finishes on David Antscherl's models.
  17. Here's an update for those of you building the Echo cross-section. We are developing a second, fitting out package with a full instruction booklet. It should be available in the next few months.Stay tuned
  18. Very well described, Jim. Obviously, accompanying photographs would clarify things for those whose heads are spinning. It literally takes less time to make a frame than reading the descriptive text. Especially after you've done a few. One caveat here. The chocked joints become angled as you progress towards the fore and aft hulls. Note the dashed lines in frames 4 & 5 on the plan. Otherwise the fairing process could break through the face of the chock. However, this angle is so slight on the cross-section section we have chosen it's not really an issue. The setup for doing this is exactly the same as what you have described but the mill vice is attached to an angle plate. One could calculate the angle via geometry or just eye ball it as I did. David Antscherl discusses the laying out of the angled chock in The Fully Framed Model. It's simply a matter of milling the correct angled face on both sides of the mating futtocks on one side, then reversing the direction of the angled plate to mill the chocks on the other side.
  19. Hmm... complementary $15 pedicure for I'm guessing $3000 of veterinary bills. Sounds like a good deal, Toni. It's an axiom among us veterinarians that if there is to be a "complication" it will always be a physician or lawyer's pet. I hope she continues to improve under you home care and remember - she's as likely to eat your new galley oven as she is her treats!
  20. Just to be clear that's his opinion. Personally I think your models are brilliant!
  21. Translation: "Superb! Gaetan, Unfortunately, the choice of wood is unfortunate.The veins are quite pronounced, which rescaled 1/1 gives a very curious aspect. This does not detract from the very good performance you are doing. Congratulations. Kind regards, Gloaguen"
  22. Thanks, all, for the kind words. I have completed the last update and photos follow. The starboard axletree and winches are installed, along with the unusual rhodings displayed on the Annapolis Swan class model. Exterior planking to follow. As a reminder, the entire port side is left in frame to represent the Echo cross-section timbering package provided by Admiralty Models. The starboard side shows will show her fully fitted out.
  23. Went to look up the bio on this fascinating ship builder and I believe his middle initial is actually "L".
  24. Looking great, Ben. I actually made the fore and aft sections before framing as it was easy to transfer the bottom shapes this way.
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