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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Lovely planking, Mike. I see you're using spacers between the planks. I look forward to seeing how you caulk them.
  2. dvm27
    Bravo, Mike. That's a very Chuck-looking transom and you can't do better than that!
  3. dvm27
    Lovely work, Toni. Working out the setups on the mill is fun, isn't it? Takes much longer than the actual machining.
  4. dvm27
    Very nice Maury. Leaving the "black strake" clear saves you from making a two toned entry step.
  5. dvm27
    I do love this build!
  6. dvm27
    Splendid work, Johann!
  7. dvm27
    The simplest and most important tip that I learned from my mentor is to clean up every glued joint with water and a small paint brush immediately. It's very hard to scrape or remove glue once set.
  8. dvm27
    I used the top and butt method of anchor stock planking. The combined two lower strakes of the main wale are 20" wide. I used 12" for the thickest part and 8" for the thinnest part. I used 20' for the length of the plank with a 14' and 6' section. Once you lay this out on paper the angles are set. It's very easy to cut these using the taper jig on the Byrnes table saw. If you are planning to paint or dye the wales you may wish to forgo this and just use plain strakes. As you'll see in the photo my meticulous top and butt joinery is not visible after sanding and staining. One last point - the "black" strake may be either blackened or not.
  9. dvm27
    The hardest part of building a fully framed model (at least for me) is establishing a nice clean run of the gun port sills. Cumulative error makes it very difficult to add the mortises for the sills before raising the frames. I believe Toni (?) cut all hers after fully framing the model and drawing a nice shear line across the entire hull. However, it is a bit more difficult to cut the mortises when the frames are installed. Of course if you are planking the model it makes no difference as sills can be cut back or padded as needed to match the planking.
  10. dvm27
    Terrific job , Grant. I've never used the radius turning attachment but it's perfect for this piece. A slight modification to your sequence might help in the future. After mounting the square and inserting the live center, mark the jaws with their concurrent ebony face (1-4). Then remove the blank and shape it to eight square or even sixteen square back to, but not including, the base portion in the head-stock. it's the same principle as making a mast. Now reinsert the ebony blank as before, matching up the numbered jaws with the numbered surfaces of the blank. You can now turn it to a round shape in just a few seconds and the dreaded ebony dust will be reduced considerably.
  11. dvm27
    The pump dale scupper needs to exit through the wale, so the deeper angle is appropriate. This does create a somewhat wider opening in the waterway but the pump dale covers this. The other scupper has a similar issue but the carriage also covers this up. In actuality, the scupper angle was 24 degrees and I note the shape was sometimes elbowed so that the waterway hole had less inboard lip to it. My advice would be to drill the inboard scupper opening at a steeper angle for a normal final appearance. Then drill the outboard scupper hole in the wale at an angle but don't try to connect them. They'll appear normal and nobody will know they're not functional (unless you immerse your model in water). Were I to do mine again this is the approach I'd take. You can see the somewhat elongated inner scupper hole in the photo.
  12. dvm27
    Wonderful work, Mike. She looks like a full sized vessel in the yard.
  13. dvm27
    Whatever floats you boat Maury. Hacksaw or small slitting blade (.020-ish) on your table saw would do fine.
  14. dvm27
    Love your work, Augie. Very clean. Surprised you can find any shop time with the little ones probably all over the place by now.
  15. dvm27
    You could mill a veritcal slit from the bottom of the rhoding to just even with the top of the axeltrees. Once you've slid the rhoding down into place the remaining slit opening should be almost inperceptible.
  16. dvm27
    Toni's right. Just position them inboard (like Toni did) and no one will ever know there's a clearance issue. Are you retrofitting the cistern rhodings? I see you have the surfaces shaped to receive them.
  17. dvm27
    Of course a mill makes this easy to do but you can accomplish the same result with a chisel. It needs to be very well honed (most newly purchased chisels are not) and the proper width for the mortise. Score stop cuts on the sides and bottom first then remove the wood in between with light passes. {practice on some scrap first!
  18. dvm27
    Nice work Maury. Like the way you soldered everything with those rhodings in place.
  19. dvm27
    Actually, Tom, I believe lathes have been around for centuries in one form or another. There are some tasks that just can't be accomplished easily by hand tools. I also get considerable "warmth" from setting up my Sherline mill to make complicated cuts. I suspect that Nirvana and others using laser cutters and 3-D printers derive the same satisfaction, as it takes considerable knowlege and skill to set up and execute these programs. Chacun son gout!
  20. dvm27
    That's exactly what I did, Danny. I constructed a cross-section of my Swan class Pegasus model. It was a lot of fun and actually fits on a shelf above my desk.
  21. dvm27
    That's a clever jig for scoring the rising wood to accept the frames. Part of the fun of using a mill is figuring out the setups. I would make sure the pattern is marked out on top of the rising wood and checked every few passes. Even with the spacer, cumulative error can creep in and the last few mortices could be off by an inch or so. For those without a mill, you can accomplish the same result using a table saw with a .052 or larger blade set to the correct height. The pattern is affixed to the side of the rising wood with rubber cement (or your preference) and successive cuts made. Note - in the photo the sides are also scored.
  22. dvm27
    Perfectly executed hammock battens, Remco!
  23. dvm27
    Looking forward to this build John. I am currently finishing an Echo class cross-section which has a very French influence. Very elegant lines. Thanks also for the cross references on the building terms. Some translations are easy somet terms such as elancement are a bit trickier.
  24. dvm27
    This book will be available in the US from IPG Publishers in October. The postal costs will be much diminished by purchasing it in the US.
  25. dvm27
    Congratulations on the completion of a truly outstanding Swan class model, Danny!

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