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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    The wales of this Echo class cross-sectional model are holly, blackened with Fiebings leather dye. Staining was done off the model. I used three coats, lightly sanded in between, added one coat of dilute sanding sealer and finished with a light buffing of 0000 steel wool. Treenails were added after gluing in place and touched up with more dye on a very fine paint brush. I wear disposable gloves and treat the dye like it is a potential disaster in the making...which it is if spilled or seeps into adjacent work.
  2. dvm27
    I love your wilder mane version, Ben. I have the tamer dreads on my Pegasus. David probably matched them to our personalities. Hopefully others will note the way the tail is included in both starboard and port views as was done with classical lion and equestrian figureheads.
  3. dvm27
    Just found your build log, Mark. She's a beauty of a ship as well as model. Love your photos and techniques.
  4. dvm27
    Wonderful work, Alex. Will you be spray painting her or blackening with a chemical agent?
  5. dvm27
    There are a million picture editing programs out there but if your computer comes with Word you can easily resize them there. Choose the "web large" option under the "edit pictures" tab to do this.
  6. dvm27
    Jim - the palette I used for the hull planking is boxwood, ebonized holly (Feibings leather dye) for the wales and black strake and holly below the wales. Boxwood for all framing components and holly for the deck. Bamboo treenails. Watcos Danish oil is used for the boxwood and dilute sanding sealer for the holly (does not impart a yellowish hue like Watcos). I should add that I first saw these finishes on David Antscherl's models.
  7. dvm27
    Here's an update for those of you building the Echo cross-section. We are developing a second, fitting out package with a full instruction booklet. It should be available in the next few months.Stay tuned
  8. dvm27
    Very well described, Jim. Obviously, accompanying photographs would clarify things for those whose heads are spinning. It literally takes less time to make a frame than reading the descriptive text. Especially after you've done a few. One caveat here. The chocked joints become angled as you progress towards the fore and aft hulls. Note the dashed lines in frames 4 & 5 on the plan. Otherwise the fairing process could break through the face of the chock. However, this angle is so slight on the cross-section section we have chosen it's not really an issue. The setup for doing this is exactly the same as what you have described but the mill vice is attached to an angle plate. One could calculate the angle via geometry or just eye ball it as I did. David Antscherl discusses the laying out of the angled chock in The Fully Framed Model. It's simply a matter of milling the correct angled face on both sides of the mating futtocks on one side, then reversing the direction of the angled plate to mill the chocks on the other side.
  9. dvm27
    That looks terrific,, Toni. Well done!
  10. dvm27
    Hmm... complementary $15 pedicure for I'm guessing $3000 of veterinary bills. Sounds like a good deal, Toni. It's an axiom among us veterinarians that if there is to be a "complication" it will always be a physician or lawyer's pet. I hope she continues to improve under you home care and remember - she's as likely to eat your new galley oven as she is her treats!
  11. dvm27
    Just to be clear that's his opinion. Personally I think your models are brilliant!
  12. dvm27
    Translation: "Superb! Gaetan, Unfortunately, the choice of wood is unfortunate.The veins are quite pronounced, which rescaled 1/1 gives a very curious aspect. This does not detract from the very good performance you are doing. Congratulations. Kind regards, Gloaguen"
  13. dvm27
    Thanks, all, for the kind words. I have completed the last update and photos follow. The starboard axletree and winches are installed, along with the unusual rhodings displayed on the Annapolis Swan class model. Exterior planking to follow. As a reminder, the entire port side is left in frame to represent the Echo cross-section timbering package provided by Admiralty Models. The starboard side shows will show her fully fitted out.
  14. dvm27
    Went to look up the bio on this fascinating ship builder and I believe his middle initial is actually "L".
  15. dvm27
    Looking great, Ben. I actually made the fore and aft sections before framing as it was easy to transfer the bottom shapes this way.
  16. dvm27
    WQ3296 - The has also been some conjecture that the quarterdeck is in reality a Bermuda deck, fully removable for fair weather, and that the small space may have been used for storage. One day Grant Walker, of the Naval Academy Museum, will take a look inside their model and see what lies within but's it not a priority for them.
  17. dvm27
    They deserve to be in a real museum one day, Karl!
  18. dvm27
    Perfect, Ben. Now they'll both fly off with a good swipe of the elbow .
  19. dvm27
    Wonderful work, Mark. I used this duplicator once but had such a hard time reassembling the gibs and making the cross-slide run smoothly again I haven't used it since.
  20. dvm27
    That's the way to do it, Ben. Be extra careful around them once installed. One inadvertent swipe with an elbow will snap them off (I know from experience).
  21. dvm27
    One certainly can't fight the Admiralty. Splendid work, Karl!
  22. dvm27
    Beautiful work and wood palette. Love that spacing jig for the ratlines. Is it two pieces with the center mortised out?
  23. dvm27
    That's pretty impressive. I imagine painting might be a tad difficult on the conjoined pieces though.
  24. dvm27
    Well, on eBay "Museum Quality" usually refers to over-scale models lovingly hand crafted by well paid Philippine artisans (@$50/month) who have been extensively trained for at least two weeks and who use walnut and other exotic over-scale woods, cloth and real brass cannons (one size fits all ships). At least this was the case in 1976 when I visited a ship model "factory" there (actually a combined Nepa hut and Sari-Sari store). Seriously, there are many modelers on this site who build museum quality ship models but it is hard to define precisely what makes them so. You just know them when you see them. A study of The American Marine Model Gallery website http://www.shipmodel.com/index.php will provide numerous examples, as well as the costs of such models.
  25. dvm27
    It's all personal taste Ben. I finished my unplanked area with 180 grit paper followed by a light 220 swipe. Even though it's very smooth it presents a slight "rough hewn" appearance that might more closely approximate actual practice.

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