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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    It's all personal taste Ben. I finished my unplanked area with 180 grit paper followed by a light 220 swipe. Even though it's very smooth it presents a slight "rough hewn" appearance that might more closely approximate actual practice.
  2. dvm27
    Thank you George. An you are indeed correct - Echo cross-section is a great first time scratch building project.
  3. dvm27
    Hornbeam (English) has a reputation for being one of the hardest woods, Alex, but it's a great color for decking. Did you find this to be the case?
  4. dvm27
    Very nice, Ben. I'm sure you're discovering that, when sanding, you can feel when the hull is almost fair as the high and low spots converge.
  5. dvm27
    Well, plating would certainly hide the beautiful planking on your hull. I do like it on clipper ships though. For the record, all navy ships were to be coppered as of 1783 (despite the issues with the underlying bolts corroding them, destroying many hulls). But I can't speak to the practice during Cheerful's build 23 years later. It was a struggle between the bean counters decrying the cost of coppering the fleet and the Captains extolling the virtues of faster ships and longer lives for the hulls.
  6. dvm27
    Beautiful work, as always, JoHann. Looking at the quarter galleries (if that's what they're called on a corvette) I guess the designers were more interested in function than form. Sort of looks like a barn. Must have been a very dark space.
  7. dvm27
    Although I have no idea about how an engine works I am fascinated by your machining processes. Thanks for including the ruler in your photos so that we can better appreciate the small sizes you are working with.
  8. dvm27
    Ben, I also had small gaps develop between my fillers, no doubt due to humidity changes in the environment. I did fill them by applying carpenters glue and sanding until they disappeared. However, I do suspect they'll open up from time to time due to expansion and contraction. I suppose a fully planked and fastened hull might diminish this. I believe it was Bob Bruckshaw who reported his framed hull shrank over 1/4 inch during an extended storage. His solution was to apply a wet cloth over-top for a day or so and it returned to it's original length. After applying longitudinals (wales and some planking) it remained the same.
  9. dvm27
    Yes, much fun fairing and knuckle bleeding, Ben. Keep applying pencil marks across the hull to pick up the high and low spots while fairing. When all pencil traces are done, so are you.
  10. dvm27
    It is easy to contain the planed shavings, Richard. Just aim them at the wall and scoop them up later. Works for me! Specs are listed on their site http://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/37040.php. I believe you can remove up to 1/32" (0.8 mm) per pass or as little as 0.1mm. The blades are reversable which extends their life but I have honestly not changed them since I purchased it almost a decade ago.
  11. dvm27
    An Alex update is like a ray of sunshine on a cloudy day!
  12. dvm27
    Wonderful work, Ed. Could you discuss how you handled the joggled planks? Were they fashioned and traced onyo the margin plank which was then cut to receive them or vice-verso?
  13. dvm27
    She's a fine looking ship model. Congratulations, Gary. What's next? I used the LumberYards laser cut package to build Hannah (Hahn style) after my FA. and it was very nice progression. Look at Toni Levines build log.
  14. dvm27
    Since real ships were not made of boxwood or pear I find it unusual that the judge would find your choice of wood objectionable, unless the criteria was making a perfect model of an antique model. The choice of wood is purely aesthetic and the cherry is gorgeous. For those not familiar with no. 11 surgical blades, they are the same size and shape as the x-Acto blades, but thinner and rather flimsy for wood work in general. They are designed to cut skin and really do not hold up well for hobby work. However Gaetan seems to prefer them and perhaps they are ideally suited for very fine carving as they are certainly sharper.
  15. dvm27
    Microscope cover slips are the perfect thickness but have you had success trimming them to size, Nigel? I have found no consistent way to cut them without their breaking.
  16. dvm27
    Both machines have their use in the workshop. For thicker billets that need to be quickly reduced the Proxxon planer is perfect. It makes very fast and smooth cuts. For dimensioned wood that is close to final thickness I use the Byrnes thickness sander. You could get by with just the Byrnes sander but it is designed to remove a few thousandths of an inch at a time (hence it's use as a precision tool).
  17. dvm27
    The Proxxon planer is a first class piece of machinery. It cuts smoothly and consistently and the auto-feed feature is outstanding. You can affix the wood to a sled (thicker piece of wood) with a couple tacks of glue to facilitate the process of getting very thin pieces.
  18. dvm27
    You've clearly mastered the sail technique, both furled and set. The back lit photo could pass for the real ship. Have a great tropical rest, Dan! I think we've all had our fill of this winter
  19. dvm27
    Cumulative error is a constant threat in plank on frame modeling. It's still a beautiful looking hull and you might consider fairing out any unevenness and planking her outside. That would cover most of what you are not happy with. It would make a very nice companion to your fully framed next effort.
  20. dvm27
    Sweet work, Al. You are going to need to invest in a camera with macro capability so that we can better appreciate your work!
  21. dvm27
    Beautiful work, as always. Love the planking detail of the port lid to match the billboard!
  22. dvm27
    Damned sneaky, Mike. And quite brilliant solution to getting those transom slots perfect! Will definitely file that one away.
  23. dvm27
    Well Chuck, you're in good company. Dean of plank of frame ship modelers Harold Hahn wrote that he never spiled a plank or needed a stealer strake.
  24. dvm27
    I believe the Nobel Prize is in order for figuring out how to keep small sliced pieces from flying off the saw table! Also love that Sherline accessory. Does it have a special name?
  25. dvm27
    Fabulous, Chuck. It's a pretty simple technique to do but not live in front of twenty guys! Your club is lucky to have a mentor like you.

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