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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Translation: "Superb! Gaetan, Unfortunately, the choice of wood is unfortunate.The veins are quite pronounced, which rescaled 1/1 gives a very curious aspect. This does not detract from the very good performance you are doing. Congratulations. Kind regards, Gloaguen"
  2. Thanks, all, for the kind words. I have completed the last update and photos follow. The starboard axletree and winches are installed, along with the unusual rhodings displayed on the Annapolis Swan class model. Exterior planking to follow. As a reminder, the entire port side is left in frame to represent the Echo cross-section timbering package provided by Admiralty Models. The starboard side shows will show her fully fitted out.
  3. Went to look up the bio on this fascinating ship builder and I believe his middle initial is actually "L".
  4. Looking great, Ben. I actually made the fore and aft sections before framing as it was easy to transfer the bottom shapes this way.
  5. WQ3296 - The has also been some conjecture that the quarterdeck is in reality a Bermuda deck, fully removable for fair weather, and that the small space may have been used for storage. One day Grant Walker, of the Naval Academy Museum, will take a look inside their model and see what lies within but's it not a priority for them.
  6. They deserve to be in a real museum one day, Karl!
  7. Perfect, Ben. Now they'll both fly off with a good swipe of the elbow .
  8. Wonderful work, Mark. I used this duplicator once but had such a hard time reassembling the gibs and making the cross-slide run smoothly again I haven't used it since.
  9. That's the way to do it, Ben. Be extra careful around them once installed. One inadvertent swipe with an elbow will snap them off (I know from experience).
  10. One certainly can't fight the Admiralty. Splendid work, Karl!
  11. Beautiful work and wood palette. Love that spacing jig for the ratlines. Is it two pieces with the center mortised out?
  12. That's pretty impressive. I imagine painting might be a tad difficult on the conjoined pieces though.
  13. Well, on eBay "Museum Quality" usually refers to over-scale models lovingly hand crafted by well paid Philippine artisans (@$50/month) who have been extensively trained for at least two weeks and who use walnut and other exotic over-scale woods, cloth and real brass cannons (one size fits all ships). At least this was the case in 1976 when I visited a ship model "factory" there (actually a combined Nepa hut and Sari-Sari store). Seriously, there are many modelers on this site who build museum quality ship models but it is hard to define precisely what makes them so. You just know them when you see them. A study of The American Marine Model Gallery website http://www.shipmodel.com/index.php will provide numerous examples, as well as the costs of such models.
  14. It's all personal taste Ben. I finished my unplanked area with 180 grit paper followed by a light 220 swipe. Even though it's very smooth it presents a slight "rough hewn" appearance that might more closely approximate actual practice.
  15. Thank you George. An you are indeed correct - Echo cross-section is a great first time scratch building project.
  16. Hornbeam (English) has a reputation for being one of the hardest woods, Alex, but it's a great color for decking. Did you find this to be the case?
  17. Very nice, Ben. I'm sure you're discovering that, when sanding, you can feel when the hull is almost fair as the high and low spots converge.
  18. Well, plating would certainly hide the beautiful planking on your hull. I do like it on clipper ships though. For the record, all navy ships were to be coppered as of 1783 (despite the issues with the underlying bolts corroding them, destroying many hulls). But I can't speak to the practice during Cheerful's build 23 years later. It was a struggle between the bean counters decrying the cost of coppering the fleet and the Captains extolling the virtues of faster ships and longer lives for the hulls.
  19. Beautiful work, as always, JoHann. Looking at the quarter galleries (if that's what they're called on a corvette) I guess the designers were more interested in function than form. Sort of looks like a barn. Must have been a very dark space.
  20. Although I have no idea about how an engine works I am fascinated by your machining processes. Thanks for including the ruler in your photos so that we can better appreciate the small sizes you are working with.
  21. Ben, I also had small gaps develop between my fillers, no doubt due to humidity changes in the environment. I did fill them by applying carpenters glue and sanding until they disappeared. However, I do suspect they'll open up from time to time due to expansion and contraction. I suppose a fully planked and fastened hull might diminish this. I believe it was Bob Bruckshaw who reported his framed hull shrank over 1/4 inch during an extended storage. His solution was to apply a wet cloth over-top for a day or so and it returned to it's original length. After applying longitudinals (wales and some planking) it remained the same.
  22. Yes, much fun fairing and knuckle bleeding, Ben. Keep applying pencil marks across the hull to pick up the high and low spots while fairing. When all pencil traces are done, so are you.
  23. It is easy to contain the planed shavings, Richard. Just aim them at the wall and scoop them up later. Works for me! Specs are listed on their site http://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/37040.php. I believe you can remove up to 1/32" (0.8 mm) per pass or as little as 0.1mm. The blades are reversable which extends their life but I have honestly not changed them since I purchased it almost a decade ago.
  24. An Alex update is like a ray of sunshine on a cloudy day!
  25. Wonderful work, Ed. Could you discuss how you handled the joggled planks? Were they fashioned and traced onyo the margin plank which was then cut to receive them or vice-verso?
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