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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. It's amazingly difficult to execute a fair run of planking from fore to aft. It all starts with the black strake and wales so if you can get these right the rest should work out well.
  2. Works fine for this rightie, Richard. I often rest my wrist on the motor casing while adjusting the height. Actually makes fine adjustments easier I find.
  3. Remco was right - we haven't seen the full project recently. It looks phenomenal, Dan!
  4. Somehow, I missed your build log, Nils. Thank you for sharing this beautiful example of the model maker's art!
  5. Excellent work, Ben. You may wish to fabricate and temporarily fit frames L fore and 14 aft before raising those last cants. In a perfect world, your cant frames will fair right into the first full frames. Having those full frames ready as reference will show you how you have done. I must admit having to rework one cant and full frame to make a smooth flow after beveling. I suspect I had made an error transferring the half-breadth to the building board.
  6. Remember the movie Good Will Hunting? There's a scene in there where the brilliant math professor tells the math prodigy that there may only be five people in the world who could tell the difference between their work and unfortunatly he was one of them...and it haunted him. When you get to Remco's level, these differences that are invisible to the vast majority of us stick out like a sore thumb.
  7. Theoretically, that outboard slope is approximately 8 degrees for the reasons tha Ben has stated.
  8. The hawse holes finished diameter is 10.5". If you plan to add 1" liners and lead them you need to open up the holes by 1.5 - 2" so that, after adding these, the final diameter is 10.5".
  9. Great job, Toni. They look well aligned and positioned. Toni would have to open the hawse holes a bit to accommodate the lining. This feature won't show if the hull is planked in this area so that needs to be factored in.
  10. I agree with Druxey that nailing that cross-chock the first time around is indeed impressive. Just for fun, you should make another to see if you could go two for two!
  11. Excellent start Maury. It looks like you have one of the newer plugs with the cast separator so the problem Toni described should not be an issue. I also made my apron separate from the stem and found it much easier this way. I look forward to your build.
  12. Beautiful planking, Toni. Alas, all of your fine joinery will most likely disappear after painting.
  13. A wonderful story, Remco, but you will have to change one detail. Calico cats are overwhelmingly females except for the rare hermaphrodite (I've seen only a couple in 35 years of practice). I'd need a higher resolution photo to verify it though.
  14. Just tell people it's the result of musket fire in battle. Looks great, Remco.
  15. Well done, Ben. I see you decided to ignore Druxey's advice and execute the hawse holes afterwards (as I have). Please mark them out carefully and triple. check their positions. There's a bit of an optical illusion from the side but the outer one is slightly lower from the bow view. Start with a very small hole and gradually expand them with Swiss files. I purchased one that was the exact diameter of the hawse holes to avoid ellipsing them.
  16. Alan, During the process of building a fully framed model I occasionally arrived at a place where the stress overwhelmed the fun of doing a hobby. At those times I took a break to work on other projects. Sometimes for a week, sometimes longer but when I came back to it the stress was gone and the work improved.
  17. I also love this book Michael. It packs a lot of information into the smaller format and referencing the SLR numbers is a great bonus. This is supposed to be the first of a series on the collection. Let's hope so!
  18. The symmetry looks very good, Toni. Your should have a nice run of lights when you've completed this extremely challenging area.
  19. Love the scarph jig and everything else, Mark! I don't think you can prevent all spring-back. I've always followed Harold Hahn's advice of boiling and clamping over a shaped mold that has too much curve. This allows for natural spring-back after the piece has dried.
  20. Looks like a piece of furniture, Michael!
  21. Looking very good, Ben. As long as you're using those as practice pieces I'd recommend a test go at the hawse holes too. They can be very challenging and you only get one shot at them!
  22. Wow, Kurt, that last photo demonstrates the finest possible example of the model makers art.
  23. Excellent planking work, Toni! Just curious - were those holly striations visible befor the application of the finish? I've learned to look at my holly with a strong light before using it for just the same reason. Good luck with the stern. It's like a 3-d puzzle with no reference points.
  24. Beautiful, Remco. Same sanding stick, just a helluva lot smaller, for the sweeps. For those who haven't done this before make sure the sandpaper (rubber cemented on) does not extend to the opposite port.
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