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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Nice laser cutting machine, Chuck. would it be any trouble to bring it to St. Louis and give a demo?
  2. dvm27
    My goodness that's a huge anchor. Thanks for including the scale reference.Beautiful metalwork!
  3. dvm27
    Good luck with this build Hans. You may wish to also check out the model build of Glen Greico, a Texas A&M University professional model builder. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/report1/belleinprogress.htm
  4. dvm27
    I have unglued the same area with concommitant surrounding alcohol seepage several times and the adjacent joints still seem fine. Perhaps it's possible that the glue rehardens after the alcohol evaporates? I ain't no chemist but I've had no structural failures and have gotten a bit more liberal with my ungluing. At any rate your model looks terrific Toni and it looks like your patch fits well with the grain of the surrounding plank. As you move on with construction the "glaring repaired area" will likely recede into the background and you won't see it unless you're looking for it.
  5. dvm27
    Yes, Chuck, it's time for some well deserved "me time"!
  6. dvm27
    Real ropes have weight, Ken (especially when wet), and develop a graceful curve or catenary. Most old models such as those in the Naval Academy museum (rigged with silk or linen rope) have this feature and it looks lovely. But it is very hard to reproduce with modern rigging. Excessively taught ropes seldom exist on real sailing ships so don't feel bad about some slackness in your lines.
  7. dvm27
    Hahn's rigging plan is available through the Lumber Yard. As Russ points out, however, Hannah did not have belaying pins and the lines are secured on various timberheads, shroud cleats and block and tackle arrangements on the deck. Unfortunately, Harold shows none of these falls. His model is in the Washington Navy Yard and I spent hours figuring out how his rigging was done.
  8. dvm27
    Love those clamps and the research behind them, Mark. I also have never been a fan of the milky white color used in the cabins and hope you stick to natural or varnished wood. As a mater of fact, I can't recall the use of white as an interior feature on many Navy Board models, can you?
  9. dvm27
    I wouldn't go above 180 grit sandpaper for the surfaces. You need to have a "tooth" for the glue to bond. Variations in color shouldn't be a major issue since the finished frames comprise only a small portion of the blank used. After cutting your blanks for the Hahn-style build make sure to mix and match your different blank piles when gluing up the frames to minimize these streaks.
  10. dvm27
    It's amazingly difficult to execute a fair run of planking from fore to aft. It all starts with the black strake and wales so if you can get these right the rest should work out well.
  11. dvm27
    Works fine for this rightie, Richard. I often rest my wrist on the motor casing while adjusting the height. Actually makes fine adjustments easier I find.
  12. dvm27
    Remco was right - we haven't seen the full project recently. It looks phenomenal, Dan!
  13. dvm27
    Somehow, I missed your build log, Nils. Thank you for sharing this beautiful example of the model maker's art!
  14. dvm27
    Excellent work, Ben. You may wish to fabricate and temporarily fit frames L fore and 14 aft before raising those last cants. In a perfect world, your cant frames will fair right into the first full frames. Having those full frames ready as reference will show you how you have done. I must admit having to rework one cant and full frame to make a smooth flow after beveling. I suspect I had made an error transferring the half-breadth to the building board.
  15. dvm27
    Remember the movie Good Will Hunting? There's a scene in there where the brilliant math professor tells the math prodigy that there may only be five people in the world who could tell the difference between their work and unfortunatly he was one of them...and it haunted him. When you get to Remco's level, these differences that are invisible to the vast majority of us stick out like a sore thumb.
  16. dvm27
    Theoretically, that outboard slope is approximately 8 degrees for the reasons tha Ben has stated.
  17. dvm27
    The hawse holes finished diameter is 10.5". If you plan to add 1" liners and lead them you need to open up the holes by 1.5 - 2" so that, after adding these, the final diameter is 10.5".
  18. dvm27
    Great job, Toni. They look well aligned and positioned. Toni would have to open the hawse holes a bit to accommodate the lining. This feature won't show if the hull is planked in this area so that needs to be factored in.
  19. dvm27
    I agree with Druxey that nailing that cross-chock the first time around is indeed impressive. Just for fun, you should make another to see if you could go two for two!
  20. dvm27
    Excellent start Maury. It looks like you have one of the newer plugs with the cast separator so the problem Toni described should not be an issue. I also made my apron separate from the stem and found it much easier this way. I look forward to your build.
  21. dvm27
    Beautiful planking, Toni. Alas, all of your fine joinery will most likely disappear after painting.
  22. dvm27
    A wonderful story, Remco, but you will have to change one detail. Calico cats are overwhelmingly females except for the rare hermaphrodite (I've seen only a couple in 35 years of practice). I'd need a higher resolution photo to verify it though.
  23. dvm27
    Just tell people it's the result of musket fire in battle. Looks great, Remco.
  24. dvm27
    Beautiful, Rusty!
  25. dvm27
    Well done, Ben. I see you decided to ignore Druxey's advice and execute the hawse holes afterwards (as I have). Please mark them out carefully and triple. check their positions. There's a bit of an optical illusion from the side but the outer one is slightly lower from the bow view. Start with a very small hole and gradually expand them with Swiss files. I purchased one that was the exact diameter of the hawse holes to avoid ellipsing them.

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