dvm27

They look great Remco and I really admire you're doing them at this stage, when you don't have the option of removing the sternpost.

There will be Echos at Mystic next year! As for that gap, you could have used small shims on either side to close the gaps so long as the frame ends up centered on the keel. But redoing it correctly is always the better option.

Comet's plans are drawn to the scale 1:48, or 1/4" = 1'.

The hance work, with their volute scrolls, always captures my attention on my visits to the Naval Academy Museum in Annapolis. Your illustration is brilliant. Have fun turning it into reality! Photo from one of my favorite models Royal George, 1715.

Kevin, Proxon makes a thickness planer which is very good. But you cannot plane the wood below 1/8" without putting it on a sled. Jim's product is well worth the money and you can get planks whisker thin.

That's a great way to protect and stabilize the hull while planking, Toni. I haven't seen that before.

Welcome aboard Jason. A build with the SMSNJ is a terrific idea for a group project and with Jim's help you should have no problems. Jeff is indeed generous with his wood package and you could probably squeeze out two Echos with it. You're off to a great start!

Beautiful work and workshop, Albert. Looks like you've a couple of other framed projects on the shelves. Are you taking a pause from them?

Beautiful work, Chuck. Love the ease and perfection of the rabbet.

Beautifully cast hanging knees, Alex. I shall try to emulate you panel making on my next model - it's wonderful

Safe if you don't have cats, Doris! Wonderful to see your progress whenever you find the time to post.

Here's a perfect example of tool overkill. Recommended for only the most serious tool-aholic! The piece created is the top of the brake pump, based on the illustration of David Antscherl in The Fully Framed Model (vol. 2). The piece is hexagonal with a tapered cylindrical head, a central bore and a discharge tube. Here's how I made it: 1. The hexagonal shape was laid out using the 7:10:7 technique. 2. The hexagonal shape was created using the Byrnes disk sander with the table top tilted at a 45 degree angle 3. The piece was transferred to the Sherline lathe where a center bit was used to start the bore. 4. A drill bit was used to enlarge the bore to it's final diameter. 5. Thin strips of 180 grit and 320 grit sandpaper were used to taper the head to a cylindrical shape. 6. The piece was transferred to the drill press where a center bit was used to mark the opening of the discharge tube. 8. The discharge tube was drilled using the appropriate bit. 9. The piece was transferred to the Byrnes table saw where the final sloping outboard face was created using the fence set at the correct angle. 10. An over-sized cylinder was created on the Sherline lathe for the discharge tube. 11. A center bit and drill bit were used to create the inner diameter for the discharge tube. 12. The outer diameter was then shaped using a cutting bit on the lathe. 13. The discharge tube was parted at it's correct length and glued into the pump tube. While this is a very small piece there are many angles involved, not to mention a bore which needs to be perfectly centered and a very thin walled discharge tube. Could I have made this piece using only chisels and a Dremel drill? Yes. In fact I did so, but discarded the effort because the machined version was better. Would I buy all the equipment just to make this piece? Certainly not. But I have had these tools for many years and they have paid for themselves many times over. Total time to make this piece using the above method was twenty minutes. The less successful hand produced version took over an hour. Those of you who love their power tools (Is Norm Abrams from This Old House present?) will totally get it. The rest of you will think I've gone off the deep end. I respect all views!

Unfortunately, Preac is out of business. Perhaps they're still available on the secondary market. I do still have and use a Preac. I'll have to try that blade sharpening trick Kurt, although I can honestly say I never thought the saw was under powered. I do note a Preac video available on eBay. Has anybody seen it and does it cover what Kurt is describing? It's pretty pricey. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miniature-Table-Saw-Featuring-the-PREAC-Precision-Miniature-Table-Saw-the-DVD-/251222098513?pt=US_DVD_HD_DVD_Blu_ray&hash=item3a7e010251

Might you be able to provide a link?

The perfect recipe for a workshop for scratch or semi-scratch builders: 1 part Byrnes table saw 1 part Byrnes thickness sander 1 part Byrnes disk sander After simmering, add in 1 part Sherline Mill and 1 part Proxxon planer Finish with Sherline lathe and mini drill press The above recipe will require a large portion of lettuce (green) but the finished product should last a lifetime

There's nothing crazy about talking to your dog, Chuck. The problem arises when they answer you!

Nice laser cutting machine, Chuck. would it be any trouble to bring it to St. Louis and give a demo?

My goodness that's a huge anchor. Thanks for including the scale reference.Beautiful metalwork!

Good luck with this build Hans. You may wish to also check out the model build of Glen Greico, a Texas A&M University professional model builder. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/report1/belleinprogress.htm

I have unglued the same area with concommitant surrounding alcohol seepage several times and the adjacent joints still seem fine. Perhaps it's possible that the glue rehardens after the alcohol evaporates? I ain't no chemist but I've had no structural failures and have gotten a bit more liberal with my ungluing. At any rate your model looks terrific Toni and it looks like your patch fits well with the grain of the surrounding plank. As you move on with construction the "glaring repaired area" will likely recede into the background and you won't see it unless you're looking for it.

Yes, Chuck, it's time for some well deserved "me time"!

Real ropes have weight, Ken (especially when wet), and develop a graceful curve or catenary. Most old models such as those in the Naval Academy museum (rigged with silk or linen rope) have this feature and it looks lovely. But it is very hard to reproduce with modern rigging. Excessively taught ropes seldom exist on real sailing ships so don't feel bad about some slackness in your lines.

Hahn's rigging plan is available through the Lumber Yard. As Russ points out, however, Hannah did not have belaying pins and the lines are secured on various timberheads, shroud cleats and block and tackle arrangements on the deck. Unfortunately, Harold shows none of these falls. His model is in the Washington Navy Yard and I spent hours figuring out how his rigging was done.

Love those clamps and the research behind them, Mark. I also have never been a fan of the milky white color used in the cabins and hope you stick to natural or varnished wood. As a mater of fact, I can't recall the use of white as an interior feature on many Navy Board models, can you?

I wouldn't go above 180 grit sandpaper for the surfaces. You need to have a "tooth" for the glue to bond. Variations in color shouldn't be a major issue since the finished frames comprise only a small portion of the blank used. After cutting your blanks for the Hahn-style build make sure to mix and match your different blank piles when gluing up the frames to minimize these streaks.