popeye the sailor

finally got a chance to really tune in this weekend.........very nice work on the galleries Mark!

this has turned into quite a project.......the detail you've put into each aspect is really super. I'm sure you'll figure out the assembly as you go along...one idea will facilitate the next. you will do well my friend

I agree with Dave as well........you did a great job with the planking. you've set yourself up quite well....the second planking will be a breeze!

sounds interesting.....I'm sure you'll find more missing details that can be added. the model is large enough. a friend of mine who owned a Billing Boats franchise {warehouse}, was supposed to send me a copy of the plans. sadly he couldn't get them {I imagine}. the kit is too expensive and out of my price range {for now, anyway}. I haven't had too many problems with the laser cutting, except for the occasional delamination of parts {ply separation}. I've built enough Billing's kits to overlook the vagueness of the plans........I don't squint so much any more

....and the shark smiled for the camera

you'll do just fine.........I'm sure of it well done Nenad

that could very be the wave of the future

you do fish very well the figures look super..........I like where this is going

I should also mention that, if your planning to paint the hull, you can use filler to fix all of the imperfections....prime and paint. save all that wonderful walnut for trim work and other fun stuff. if you still wish to veneer and are going to do the coppering too........mark off the waterline, plank down to that line, and then copper from there. many creative ways to accomplish this.

there are a few different approaches to planking. I'm not an expert at it. looking at your photos, in planking at the stern, you've already done a 'stealer', which is simply a wedge of planking used to fill in a gap. basically, it follows the way that the plank wants to run. but there are time where the plank wants to run on top of the previous planking. here, you want to taper the plank....remove that excess material, so that the plank will fall into place without hinder. the best way to do it, is to create a straight line along the hull {bow to stern}, and maintain that line all the way to the keel. using the scale planking method, as I mentioned earlier, you can work with a shorter plank and shape it much easier. some folks will figure and determine what the scale length is for their particular scale, but there is an easier way {that I use}. I use two bulkheads as the scale length. where you mentioned that the veneer is shorter than the hull, this should work well for you. remember to end your plank on half the bulkhead width, so that the next one butted to it has a cement point. one method will have you 'band off' quadrants of the hull form bow to stern. with this method, the planks are trimmed to fit the quadrant, before moving on to the next one. each quadrant is measured so that all of them are equal and take into account that the bow and stern are wider than the mid ship. this will determine how the plank must be fashioned to fit the quadrant and fill it in. every method use these three ways of preparation. taper: when a plank wants to fall over the previous plank line. this excess material need to be trimmed and removed, so the plank will fall into place naturally, without any gaps. stealers: when a plank wants to fall away from the plank line, leaving a gap. the field in which this plank is to lay, is too wide. there are two methods to remedy this, but this the easier of the two, and is mostly used at the stern. a wedge of planking is trimmed to shape and installed, filling in the gap, and maintaining the plank line. jogging {or joggling}: this is the second approach to the stealer, and is mostly used at the bow. this calls for the merging of two planks at the bow, into one at the mid ship, back to two planks at the stern. two planks are tapered towards the mid ship, each tapered to 1/2 the width of the plank. the mid ship planking butts up to these planks and runs until the width begins to widen from the line again towards the stern. at this point, it will then be tapered and fitted back to two planks for the stern. the plank line must be maintained throughout this process. this doesn't always occur like this, but that's where careful planning come into play. from what I see, there are no hard rules to planking....it changes from ship to ship. some start at the bulwarks...some start at the keel. some will even plank down to the chine and then merge it from the keel. the second planking goes a bit easier, working with thin strips. I try to do the best I can with the first planking.....most of the time I could get away from doing the second planking. {unless it's a decorative wood or too many glue blotches} I hope I gave you something useful........as mentioned, there are folks who are much better at it than I am. it gets the job done

thanks everyone for the kind word.......I saw all the comments. my goodness....thank a heap! I wish I had an update for ya.......problem is, it was so nice out today, I got hung up doing yard work. I should have more free time on my hands tomorrow. thanks again!

saw a few of these kits on the various E-Bays........UK.......Japan......looks like they are {or were} based out of Spain. I couldn't find a website for them. I did see an Australian model train company by that name.

well, for one thing....you won't need those rollers to be honest...I've never heard of the manufacturer, but it looks like your doing a super job so far! got a kick out of the paragraph.......at least they have a sense of humor yes......if the walnut planking doesn't go from bow to stern, most likely, you'll have to do scale planking, or some form of it. there are tutorials here on the site, or do a search and you'll find plenty of material on the subject. you've probably done some tapering of the planking, with the first planking.......your familiar with that.....it's a very good start. there are also many fine books out there, that have good information on clipper ships. research is key.......most models lack detail that will enhance the model. adding extra detail not only gives good results, but it make ya feel good, cuz you pulled it off I'm sure others who have more knowledge than me will chime in along the way.......post plenty of pictures and ask any question you encounter...no matter how odd..........there's no such thing as a silly question. I'm pull'in up a seat........this looks like a neat look'in build. I'm off to go look'in up this company great job so far.........remember......daunted is not in the modeler's vocabulary

thanks Bob.......very kind of you. there are many who are way better than me........I just like to have fun my keyboard died today.......developed a bad case of sticky keys. .........guess you can't drop an English muffin with marmalade on it.. cheap US crap!

very nice start. what's the story with the scratch built side heads?

thanks Jack

love it!

Thanks Kevin......and thanks for the likes every one

awesome job Mark! the galleries are going to compliment the transom wonderfully! big step forward

thanks Gerhard and Patrick.......thanks also for the likes I got a chance to do the primer work on the stairs. now that the railing is done, I can pull the structure back off to do a few more things before the color goes on. I want to get the cap railings on the bulwarks, before the hull gets painted. better weather is here........I should have more free time tomorrow.

interesting jig

deck is getting more populated.........super job!

rigging looks fantastic Ron.............you've done a super job!

Bounty's look'in sweet..........rigging is very well done. I do believe that some of the sheet rigging is left up........simply tied off somewhere to aide when the sails are hoisted back up. glad to hear Jerry's on the mend

I cannot even put a like to that bit of news my friend..........then I have lost a friend as well Keith and I got to know one another .....PM chat every once in a while. out of the blue, he sends me a Popeye lunch box..........but not long after it explains why I'd send cards and never get a reply. I hope he gets better, or finds relief......and I wish the same for you as well. thanks for the update.........grim news to be sure. positive thinking my friend