druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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By re-numbering the frames you are making things difficult for yourself. This letter/number system was the way old-time shipwrights did things, and there was always a good reason for it! -
One can use scrapers - to a point. But beyond that it's miniature cutting tools and files. I found it easiest to glue the rail to a backing piece of wood so that I could hold and turn it without risk to the workpiece or my fingers. The finished piece is soaked in rubbing alcohol to release it from the backing.
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Sometimes museum models can also mislead, having names painted on as an 'improvement' at a later date!
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Speaking of convention/myth: English ships in the 18th century never had lettering in relief - only painted on. This 'style' was started by a well-known American model-maker - some of you will know who I am referring to - in the last century.
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Apart from the weather deck/no port lid question, the angle of the transom would make reading any lettering on it problematic.
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Congratulations on some very fine molding work for the main rail, Alex! Beautifully done.
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Any frame letter or number with brackets around it signifies that it is exactly the same as the dead flat.
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Until I saw your hand, I'd forgotten just how small the model is. Very impressive.
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Dead flat stations
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
All numbers or letters in brackets mean that their shape is identical and 'dead flat'. The dead flat area is always an odd number (usually 3 or 5), to allow for the change in direction of the floors in the frames. -
So sorry for you both, Michael. Been there, not easy.... Any missing pet really leaves a hole. I imagine Tyra had a great life with you both. 20 years is a good innings, but that isn't of much consolation.
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Friezes
druxey replied to Diver's topic in Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
Or use slightly watered PVA (white) glue. -
Dilute the white glue to a milk or light cream consistency.
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The measurement question is answered in that the ship was built using British feet and inches, ans measurement for the model are quoted in the same system. Instead of driving yourself crazy converting measurements from duodecimal to metric and then dividing by 48, try to buy a scale ruler (on eBay or elsewhere) that has a 1:48 scale on it. Then you can measure everything directly.
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Looking forward to your progress, Luc.
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I've not used an Exacto handle in many decades, having switched to Swann-Morton like Allan. I'm amazed that they still make their handles round. Has nobody sued them for injuries such as Allan has mentioned?
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Joinery
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I'm trying to imagine the inside of the joints! -
Ah, the really fun pieces! That is a very good start to these tricky parts.
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Moulded dimension (or the moulding way) is measured across the face of a curved timber. Sided dimension is its thickness. Usually the latter is constant in dimension.
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Similar diagonal braces against the side of the hull aft were called sleepers, not pointers.
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I'm sure that you are correct about your statement on the non-naval ships, Bruce. I don't think I suggested otherwise.
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Oh, my! I'm just catching up on your last few weeks of work. That chaloupe is simply a lovely little gem. Hopefully the geometry of the quarter gallery lights will work out for you. Looking good!
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To confirm: pointers were X oriented diagonal braces across the ship's hull, popular in the 16th and 17th centuries. However, they cut down on space in the hold. Riders replaced these.
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I understand this arrangement and don't question it, Siggi but, in general, it is unusual! I imagine the hinges would be well protected when under the replaceable lining. Also, even when not shown on the draughts, the lining would have been there.
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