druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
By the time you build your third framed model, you won't have to re-do the cant frames over at all you'll be so experienced. It will be too late to recant! I notice that you tried to camouflage your bandaged thumb with the same color as your coverall. I hope it's healing well. -
I wish you luck wrestling the frames into a new shape. Wood has a mind of its own and tends to go back to the place where it started.
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Looking lovely, Mark. But what is that piece just aft of the aftermost lower deck port?
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Looking for info on scroll saws.
druxey replied to Moab's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Better (read 'generally more expensive') units are usually better for vibration-free running. Cheap ones tend to 'thrash'. -
And now you have earned the title of Master Shipwright, Mark. Congratulations!
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A very impressive result, especially considering the scale. Well done!
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- heller
- soleil royal
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SilkSpan is a form of paper. The fibers run randomly , which contribute to its strength.
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I didn't realise from the previous elevations that 13 A and 14A were the curved half beams. As most of the stress on these is from the mast and sails, it would be lateral rather than compressive. An heretical thought: was perhaps hanging knee 15 omitted altogether?
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Welcome aboard, Vladislav!
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Almost exactly what I envisaged, Mark. A workable solution! The hanging knee in this position does not have to be so extreme: the surfaces that are near horizontal can be a few inches higher and still provide room for the bolts to the beam.
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Are you sure that the hanging knee off 15 is to the aft side of the port? A little fettling of the standard's tupper arm , then the shorter route would be for it to locate between the standard and hanging knee 14A. If I were master shipwright I might be tempted to place 14A forward of the beam as well....
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Nice progress, Gaetan!
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Looking at the photos, I keep forgetting that this is at 1:96, not 1:48 scale! Simply lovely work, Giampiero.
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I suspect through the standard in such a case. The bolt needs to be ithrough solid wood, not just planking!
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SilkSpan actually has pretty good wet strength, much, much greater than tissue!
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Just catching up with your progress, Ohla. Looking lovely! Getting the sheer of the wale at the bow exactly right is difficult, but you've nailed it.
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Stitching sails with sewing machine
druxey replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Might I suggest that, for a scale model, stitching is not the best or easiest option? However, fine the stitching, it will always be way over scale. Also, as you've discovered, stitching a straight line is very tricky. Let me suggest another possibility: First, gently stretch the uncut material over plastic wrap. Give it a dilute coat of acrylic matt medium to slightly stiffen it. Also, when you cut the material, it will not fray. When it is dry, mark out the shape of the sail in pencil, then another set of lines outside this to give the 'hem'. Draw pencil lines the width of the sail cloths apart or, if this is at a large scale, a double set of lines. Using a straightedge this should be easy! Cut the sail out to the outer lines. Turn over the edges and either glue them down with white glue or matt medium. Detail the sail to taste and you are done. -
The cigarette cards I referred to earlier are shown here (Black Prince is bottom row far left).
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In post #31 the armed, crowned figure striking with his sword is Black Prince. One of a series of Players' cigarette cards of figureheads features this.
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Syren Servo-Matic mouse making attachment
druxey replied to WalrusGuy's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The issue with making an authentic looking mouse is that it is woven, not spun. An uneven number of longitudinal threads have line wrapped around them, but in an in-and-out fashion. The only assistance by a serving machine would be to slowly revolve the mouse as you weave. It's a labor-intensive exercise! There are other ways of making a reasonably good looking mouse, as I'm sure you can find elsewhere on this site.
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