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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Certainly an ambitious 'first', and well done for seeing such a major project through. Many others would have fallen by the wayside.
  2. Would thin brass or copper shim sheet work better than card for the roves?
  3. Bien fait, monsieur! Nicely done, sir.
  4. Off to a good start there, jw. I like your shipyard helper as well.
  5. He models, he machines, he cooks. Is there anything Keith can't do?
  6. By the time you build your third framed model, you won't have to re-do the cant frames over at all you'll be so experienced. It will be too late to recant! I notice that you tried to camouflage your bandaged thumb with the same color as your coverall. I hope it's healing well.
  7. I think that the deck plan outlines are representative only, not properly lofted!
  8. I wish you luck wrestling the frames into a new shape. Wood has a mind of its own and tends to go back to the place where it started.
  9. Looking lovely, Mark. But what is that piece just aft of the aftermost lower deck port?
  10. Better (read 'generally more expensive') units are usually better for vibration-free running. Cheap ones tend to 'thrash'.
  11. And now you have earned the title of Master Shipwright, Mark. Congratulations!
  12. SilkSpan is a form of paper. The fibers run randomly , which contribute to its strength.
  13. I didn't realise from the previous elevations that 13 A and 14A were the curved half beams. As most of the stress on these is from the mast and sails, it would be lateral rather than compressive. An heretical thought: was perhaps hanging knee 15 omitted altogether?
  14. Welcome aboard, Vladislav!
  15. Almost exactly what I envisaged, Mark. A workable solution! The hanging knee in this position does not have to be so extreme: the surfaces that are near horizontal can be a few inches higher and still provide room for the bolts to the beam.
  16. Are you sure that the hanging knee off 15 is to the aft side of the port? A little fettling of the standard's tupper arm , then the shorter route would be for it to locate between the standard and hanging knee 14A. If I were master shipwright I might be tempted to place 14A forward of the beam as well....
  17. Looking at the photos, I keep forgetting that this is at 1:96, not 1:48 scale! Simply lovely work, Giampiero.
  18. I suspect through the standard in such a case. The bolt needs to be ithrough solid wood, not just planking!
  19. SilkSpan actually has pretty good wet strength, much, much greater than tissue!
  20. Just catching up with your progress, Ohla. Looking lovely! Getting the sheer of the wale at the bow exactly right is difficult, but you've nailed it.
  21. Might I suggest that, for a scale model, stitching is not the best or easiest option? However, fine the stitching, it will always be way over scale. Also, as you've discovered, stitching a straight line is very tricky. Let me suggest another possibility: First, gently stretch the uncut material over plastic wrap. Give it a dilute coat of acrylic matt medium to slightly stiffen it. Also, when you cut the material, it will not fray. When it is dry, mark out the shape of the sail in pencil, then another set of lines outside this to give the 'hem'. Draw pencil lines the width of the sail cloths apart or, if this is at a large scale, a double set of lines. Using a straightedge this should be easy! Cut the sail out to the outer lines. Turn over the edges and either glue them down with white glue or matt medium. Detail the sail to taste and you are done.
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