druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
At each step, be as accurate as you possibly can be. Cumulative error adds up very quickly. Errors never seem to cancel each other out! For cant frames and hawse pieces, check all these factors: 1) Angle of foot 2) Height of step 3) Height from the board to the toptimber line 4) Verticality 5) For hawse timbers, the accumulated width across them as you add each one 6) For cant frames, making sure that the sided dimension (thickness ) at the foot is correct and does not push the next cant off its step 7) Width must equal that of the maximum breadth on the baseboard -
Quite the collection, Alan! Perhaps the groove for the line around the open hearts could be more semicircular, like you have on the closed hearts?
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Just for the record, Allan, I read Ship Modelling Hints and Tips in about 1955!
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I agree with you, Bob. Most belaying pins on models are poorly proportioned and usually out of scale. However, as far as commercial pins go, those shown from Model Expo are far better than others I've seen!
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Wood. I doubt weighing documents with a wooden belaying pin would be particularly effective! The brass ones look nice and are well shaped, but I'd paint them ochre brown.
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When starting out using silver solder, there will be more failures than successes. However, after a while, success will become routine stuff. Occasionally, though, there will be a day where nothing goes right. I had one of those last week. Either the wind was in the wrong direction, the milk had gone sour or I'd stepped on the cat, but when one experiences failure after failure, walk away. The next day I nailed it first time. There's alchemy in there somewhere....
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The raising of waterline or boot topping fore and aft to counteract the optical illusion of 'droop' was something I first read years ago in Lt. Commander L.H. Craine's Ship Modelling Hints and Tips, 1948.
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The other possibility is to reduce the gas flow on the torch (if you can) so that the flame does not blow away the silver solder paillon.
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I guess that the windlass won't wind, alas! It's interesting the things one discovers on the journey of a build. Either "They can't possibly have done that like that," or "Aha! So that what that's for!".
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Almost. Get rid of the sharp edges where the lanyard will run, or it will fray through in no time!
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Your block shapes are great. However, the hearts should be rounded off more on the inner sides/edges.
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Ooh! Nice project, Chris. I'm on board here for a vicarious ride....
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Interesting procedure. Does the set silicon stone have any slight flex or is it perfectly rigid like conventional dental stone?
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- clipper
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
That cross-chock is one of the trickiest bits to do. Looks like you are beating it into submission! -
An interesting assortment! Many of the models seem to be sailor-made.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Of course, one could also wrap them to protect them from damage or be a little more careful! Just sayin'.... -
I'll rise to the bait -again. My limited understanding is that conservators' wax (Renaissance) is pH neutral so should not deteriorate line like beeswax (acidic) will do in time.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Perseverance also helps. On my first framed model, the cant frames were torn out and replaced four times! After that experience, I was successful every first time. It's simply the learning curve - a steep one in this case. -
The aesthetic may have changed, but also the height and protrusion of the knee of the head. Presumably the curve of the rails followed....
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Nice carved statue, but I doubt whether it was ever a figurehead. It stands nicely on its pedestal.
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Here's what I think happened with Victory. Originally the beakhead platform was flush with, and an extension of, the upper deck. The original head rails had a greater curve or 'bag', so the lowest part of the main rail was in line with the upper deck. At some point the headwork was replaced. The new head rails had a flatter curve. To make the gratings of the head flush and level with the rail, a platform was constructed over the fore end of the upper deck. The two plans shown above demonstrate my point.
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Interesting catalog, Bruce! Unfortunately Nereus of 1821 is nothing like the model shown. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81806.html The style of the model in the catalog looks later 18th century, not 19th. The 1821 ship had 38 guns and was considerably less sleek! The model appears to look similar to Speedy of 1781, but the tiny ports make me suspect that this was a merchant vessel, not a naval one. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/84422.html
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I agree that hand-stitched French rasps are amazing. I've had two Auriou rasps for many years. They are expensive but far out-perform any commercial mass-produced tool.
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There is a dimensioned drawing on page 3 of the instructions, SkiBee.
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- norwegian sailing pram
- model shipways
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Dating 18th-century map from ship drawings
druxey replied to Stephen Gadd's topic in Nautical/Naval History
With all due respect, the image looks more like a typical Revenue cutter of c.1800. However, as there is little hull detail, it's hard to say. I believe that Deal built cutters, heavy and clinker built, were the most common at this time.- 17 replies
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- flag
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