druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I had no idea that planking a transom could be skirting danger! Looking very fine, Keith. -
Very neatly done, Clare! The tiller/wheel set-up is unlike any I've seen - usually if a wheel is present, it is on the quarterdeck where the funnel-like structure is sitting.
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Research in the HMS Ulysses 1797, a Roebuck class ship
druxey replied to Kevin Kenny's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Did you not recieve my two pm's, Kevin? -
Looking really nice so far. Two suggestions: One, skin tones are always darker than you think. Two, blend the upper edge of the beard into the skin are a bit for a softer natural edge.
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Welcome aboard - or should one say, welcome home?
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At miniature scales 'cheats' to fool the eye are necessary. Perhaps at least try some of the suggested methods that the experts use to see if you can get a result that pleases you.
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Brass wire: it bends, it breaks!
druxey replied to Mollusc's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
The brulée torch is perfect for modelmaking as well. Heat the metal in dim light to cherry red and then let it air-cool to room temperature. Take care not to burn yourself - or anything else, for that matter. -
First, you've done a very neat and workmanlike job of your first wooden model build. Well done! Clamping parts on a model where nothing is square is always a challenge in this hobby. Your solution worked well - not one I've seen before. As you work your way through more models, problem solving is half the challenge and fun!
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
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Too thin for wood poles: those appear to be lines (ropes).
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- Speeljacht
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Nice! It's amazing with accurate mark-out and the correct hand tool what one can accomplish.
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- hahn
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Beautiful work, as always!
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Jaguar XK-E by CDW - Gunze Sangyo High Tech Model - 1:24 Scale
druxey replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Is that a pair, but one mounted the wrong way around? -
Don't be too hard on yourself, Mike. These parts look deceptively easy, but they are not - as you've discovered.
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What would be the rise and tread of those steps, Rich? Also, how does that upper rail look in plan view? Does it extend in a straight fore and aft line, or is it cranked?
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My apologies for confusing the issue of the depth of keel.
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Excellent result. You now only need a ship to attach it to.
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Rich: re post #164, I took this quote from post #119, first page of the manuscript at the top.
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Ah! "...with the shoe moulds 46 inches..." that/those are the false keel(s). So, 46 - 32 = 14". Not unreasonable to have a double false keel in 7" thicknesses.
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I read that at 16" wide (sided). Two pieces: upper 20" high (moulded) and the lower 12"high. Total 32".
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For short radiused curves, perhaps two layers of 1/64" aircraft ply with the outer grain direction vertical?
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Well done so far. I often find I dread certain making certain parts because I over-think the process. When it comes to actually making them, it usually goes better than I expected. Sounds like that was the case with your cast toptimbers. Enjoy your vacation and safe travels!
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The font you picture (post #982)is a modern late 19th/20th century one. It is quite unlike that used in the 18th century. The letter have thick and thin strokes, as well as serifs (the triangular pointy bits). Bold san serif lettering will detract from your lovely model. If you can't imitate the style, perhaps omit the name altogether?
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For a ship of her size, 30" seems entirely plausible.
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Bienvenue ici, Michel!
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