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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Another theory! The upper hole was used for a strop to secure the block to something else (assuming that the illustration shows the block right way up!). The lower hole was for securing the standing end of the fall to the system. Does this make sense? Another factor is how much the holes may have been scoured out larger than originally made.
  2. Sheaves at right angles? Sounds like a shoe block. These were in common use in the 18th century, as Steel illustrates this type of block. He describes these as "...used for legs and falls of buntlines, but are seldom used." Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 156.
  3. From the excerpt, this appears to be a very readable history of ordnance.
  4. Very impressive work, Steven. You might try spraying primer on the foil, then acrylic paint should 'stick'.
  5. Knees were always made of 'compass timber' for strength. I suspect some of the more exotic shapes came from the trunk/main root junctions. When compass timber became scarce during the Napoleonic Wars, iron was substituted for the wooden knees. If you run the grain diagonally, you should be OK. Also, by 'cranking' the upper end of the knee, not only did it clear the lodging knees, the bolts could be shorter and more easily driven through the knee and beam.
  6. What a delightful subject, Ab! I remember your earlier articles which were very educational for me and thank you - belatedly - for those.
  7. Have fun with those cast knees! Gary's posted images will help you a lot. As you can see, they usually crank around to end (or start!) against the side of the beam.
  8. The structure so far looks very fair, Gary. Often in contemporary models the lower molding is radiused around the corner rather than coming to a point.
  9. Yes, foaming products are a snare and delusion in ship modeling!
  10. Check out planking tutorials such as A Primer on Planking on this site - they are free!
  11. Nice progress, Maury. Does this mean that the main mast is off-center or does it 'lean' a bit to bring the mast head back to the centerline? The idea of fluorescing glue is an interesting one. That's a new one for me!
  12. This is an interesting method of construction I've not seen before. The results look very nice.
  13. Welcome, cooltouch. As a luthier, you will already have a wide range of skills and knowledge that translate into ship modelling. As an entry point, avoid cheap and nasty (often knock-off) imports, vintage kits or too-good-to-be-true offers. Also avoid over-elaborate subjects. I do not recommend a 100 gun ship for starters! Here are two suggestions (you will doubtless get a zillion more!): Syren Ship Model Company's Royal Barge Model Shipway's Bounty's launch The first is not cheap, but it is has high quality materials.
  14. I love the observation and rendering of details! Try painting Silkspan and draping it for a coat or slicker. It will drape better at small scale than material.
  15. Gary: The stool sits at the angle of the sheer. The floor of the quarter gallery is at the same angle and height as the sheer and round up of the deck inboard. Bend your mind around that! Fitting the floor to the inside of the gallery at the correct angles will amuse you for some time....
  16. Looks like you are finally winning, Mark! As a note, to 'harden' my own line, after it is spun I stretch it, then wet it. The line slackens considerably , as you have observed. I then re-stretch it while in this state and allow to dry on the stretch. It then shows no tendency to unravel when cut.
  17. Lovely progress, Rob. I have to keep reminding myself of the small scale you are working at.
  18. Looks like an Emmett locomotive creation invaded by Statler and Waldorf from Sesame Street! What fun.
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