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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Eventually there were training ships for boys and young offenders.... https://www.victorianlondon.org/charities/trainingships.htm but there was an earlier institution by Captain Hanway in the 1750's: http://childrenshomes.org.uk/TS/
  2. Dilute acrylic matt varnish will work nicely.
  3. This is all very interesting, well thought through and impressive, HH. The stern looks like quite the wedding cake in its uncolored state.
  4. I use acrylic paint to simulate the turned over lead of a scupper.
  5. Lovely grungy effect, Gary! Sponges of varying textures are great for creating texture in full size as well, such as stage sets.
  6. Take a look through these Royal Museums Greenwich photos of a Union ensign, pre 1801. It is almost 4 meters by 5.5 meters in size! https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/730.html
  7. Here is the 'official' complete set:
  8. Whether or not the actual ships' dummy lights were glazed or not is uncertain. However, contemporary models all show glazing. Draw your own inferences....
  9. Well, YT, you must have a very steady hand! I find the long curves very useful for laying out spiled planks.
  10. I feel your pain, Bob. Current prices certainly make for attitude adjustment. I also have a lovely pearwood set of radius curves 3" to 200". Those earlier, heady days of eBay, when bargains could still be had! I still occasionally look and whimper softly.
  11. Flush, Mark. Yes, the dummy lights fooled me years ago as well!
  12. Nice to see a complete set, but I think $600 is overpriced. Either that or I'm sitting on a gold mine with my own complete set!
  13. Sailor: the steps are cut into the fore deadwood as the base for the cant frames. If this is a foreign language for you, you should read up about it in a standard text on wooden warship construction like: Longridge, The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships Goodwin, The Sailing Man of War Both of these books are highly recommended.
  14. Yes, glass aft of the wood panelling. As for tapering planks see: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66299.html Look at the upper edge of the black strake. There the tapering is obvious. Unfortunately, Steel and others don't mention this in their texts!
  15. If I understand your question correctly, your issue is with the varied thicknesses of planking as you approach the outer counter timbers. I believe that the wale thickness diminishes as it approaches the stern to that of the planking between the wales. I think this is 3" in your instance. This partially solves the issue. Secondly, the outer light of the stern gallery is a dummy one, so is boarded in anyway. One will not see the plank ends here. I recall this being the only reasonable solution when I built Polyphemus, 64 guns of 1781, some years ago.
  16. I've only used mica for miniature glazing, Eberhard. I was simply musing....
  17. Jose: your framing work is beautifully done, but I repectfully agree with Hubac. Please consider what he has suggested.
  18. However, the rowers were not a Broadway chorus line: the slight variation in oar placement makes the overall effect more realistic. Looks good to me!
  19. You must use a very low speed when applying poly. I can just see spraying it over everything if I tried that under power! Looking great, Keith.
  20. As already mentioned, please read the planking tutorials on this site - they are free!
  21. Thanks for the explanation, Eberhard. Now I wonder if mica is also a possible material to work with....
  22. This stern is the ultimate expression of my father's dictum, "Never make thing simple if you can make it complicated"! You are making good headway on interpreting this incredibly complex area of the ship. I appreciate the amount of thought that you've put into this project.
  23. The hawse arrangement was definitely designed that way, Dan. If the inner hawsehole was used it would have worn the main rail fairly quickly! I had noticed that peculiarity some time ago.
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