druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Carl: he's building his model a step at a time. Seems logical to me. -
You have confirmed to me that traditional lofting on the drawing board is best for one's mental health!
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Um, a regular face mask does not protect you from volatile organic vapours. Only a respirator with suitable filters does that. Provided you have reasonable ventilation, the small quantity of these compounds should not affect you. For cleaning up square holes, use either a square section escapement file (it's a tiny version of a Swiss file) or a small broach.
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Looks like you've anticipated every difficulty, Chuck!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Exemplary work. Absolutely impressive!
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Cruizer-class Brig-Sloops of the Royal Navy
druxey replied to molasses's topic in Nautical/Naval History
There are Cruizer class plans on the Royal Museums Greenwich web site. However, to interpret the framing, etc, you need to have quite a bit of knowledge of wooden ship construction for the navy of that time. See, for example: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/83931.html -
Thanks for the trip down memory lane to Vic Smeed. Takes me back a long way as well! Nice cut-out work there, Pete. As for quality ply, I don't know whether 'Baltic birch' ply is available Down Under, but it is of high quality, no voids and has many layers.
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A standard reference to have!
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Sorry, but brown gummed paper and brown paper do become very brittle with time due to acid content. Check the back of old paintings and framed prints! Only archival (read 'acid free) papers have longevity.
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Yes, good prep work pays dividends even if it delays the pay-off! I swear by Zinsser primer as does CDW.
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It's one of those things that is usually shown exaggerated and out of scale. It originated in days before modern adhesives and tiny pins or lengths of wire were used to attach the plates to models. These were already more visible than the real thing. Look at photos of the actual Victory or Cutty Sark, and you'll barely see tiny dimples. It is better to forget about them on scale models, really.
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Dobri!
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Yup, old time manual drafting sets usually had one or more of them. By turning the wheel, you can vary your line thickness. You may want to use a finer emery paper on the insides of the blade tips so that the paint doesn't flow too quickly!
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This question came up on another build log. Another way is paint, thinned to just flow, using a bow pen.
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I suspect making new frames for the lights would be quicker and less frustrating than trying to get consistent results thinning the existing ones.
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- heller
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One has to experiment with the consistency and viscosity of paint when using a bow pen, but I've generally had good success. I used a fine 1000 grit wet and dry paper on the inside of the tips to make it less likely for a 'glob' to occur. Also, on the odd occasion I didn't like the result, it was easily mopped up with a cotton bud and a little solvent, allowed to dry and done over.
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How to use a Circle Cutter by Dan Vadas
druxey replied to Dan Vadas's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you, Dan! -
Thanks for the description, Dan. The cutter I had used was the yellow Olfa one. I shall try again!
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Everything 'sits down' visually very nicely except for those red handwheels. Should they be softened down a little?
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