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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Very impressive work! Thanks for posting these. I don't think it's bending forum rules at all: there's a boat in the diorama, isn't there?
  2. Nor drilling that hole was a very close call, Keith! Whew! Current wife? Are you thinking of changing the model and year??
  3. What material are you using for the sails?
  4. One can use solvent based paints and varnishes over water based ones, but not the other way around. Perhaps that is why you have the adhesion issue.
  5. Pins on a board for a simple jig to keep the distance between rings consistent? That is fine work, in both senses of the word!
  6. Some bamboo skewers do not have straight grain or are too soft to draw through. I've ended up with more scrap than treenails. Actually, garden bamboo is generally superior. Try using parallel pliers to grip the material as you pull it through. There will be less crushing of the ends.
  7. Mark brings up a good point: a 'Six foote Skarfe' means that the adjacent timbers are in contact with each others' sides for a minimum of six feet, as opposed to a scarf joint, where two timbers are joined end to end.
  8. Sounds like you are a victim of your own success. It's good to know that folk want to ask questions and engage you in conversation. Potentially there could be a new ship modeler or two as a result....
  9. The older set is the lower one, judging by its style. The upper set, being complete, is the nicer. With light surface corrosion of the steel, try a little penetrating oil on a Q-tip first. If that fails to move it, light buffing using Scotch-Brite radial bristle discs in a rotary tool at slow speed will work. I'd start with 400-grit and move into finer grades from there.
  10. A cheap way to keep Sparex heated safely is one of those little gismos that keep your mug of coffee warm. Hint: don't try to sip hot Sparex!
  11. I assumed irregular curves, Roger, but for regular ones a spline or flexible curve will certainly do the job.
  12. I've never seen a tutorial on this subject, so it's an interesting question. Some pointers: You need an adequate number of points plotted first. Fit a curve through the first three points and try to visualize how the line will extend to meet the next point or two. Fit a curve to the previous two points on the curve and the next point (or two). Continue through to the other end of the series of points and see if further smoothing is required. With some practice, this shouldn't be necessary.
  13. Congratulations on that finishing touch and completion of your model, Frank. An outstanding piece of work!
  14. You - and we - know the pins are correct beneath those belayed lines! Lovely pictures, Ed. Particularly the stern quarter shot (second one down).
  15. Ooh! Nice, Jim. For owners of the standard table, can this top be retrofitted?
  16. My head hurts from thinking about your level of OCD, Mark! I think, as long as you don't exceed any maximum quoted block size you should be fine. Think of it this way: Ship's carpenter: We need an 18" double aloft immediately. Bosun: I've got a 16" handy. Should do, eh? S.C. Yup. Cap'n'll never notice. B: Not up there, he won't. S.C. (Laughs.) And neither will Mark! (More raucous laughter.)
  17. If I may butt in - just scanning through the last number of posts - the 'angels' are not actually angels! They are representations of Fame blowing their trumpets. Much of this Rococo imagery has Classical allusions, such as the men with fish-tails blowing conch shells: these are Tritons, sons of Neptune, God of the Seas.
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