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Everything posted by druxey
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Very impressive work! Thanks for posting these. I don't think it's bending forum rules at all: there's a boat in the diorama, isn't there?
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Nice going, Ben. Don't leave that tape on for too long, though!
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Nor drilling that hole was a very close call, Keith! Whew! Current wife? Are you thinking of changing the model and year??
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Table saw with a reasonable price
druxey replied to Clark's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ya pays for what you gets (or don't get!). -
What material are you using for the sails?
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Pins on a board for a simple jig to keep the distance between rings consistent? That is fine work, in both senses of the word!
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Admiralty model query
druxey replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Mark brings up a good point: a 'Six foote Skarfe' means that the adjacent timbers are in contact with each others' sides for a minimum of six feet, as opposed to a scarf joint, where two timbers are joined end to end. -
Sounds like you are a victim of your own success. It's good to know that folk want to ask questions and engage you in conversation. Potentially there could be a new ship modeler or two as a result....
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Admiralty model query
druxey replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The older set is the lower one, judging by its style. The upper set, being complete, is the nicer. With light surface corrosion of the steel, try a little penetrating oil on a Q-tip first. If that fails to move it, light buffing using Scotch-Brite radial bristle discs in a rotary tool at slow speed will work. I'd start with 400-grit and move into finer grades from there. -
Cleaning Small parts prior to blackening
druxey replied to src's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
A cheap way to keep Sparex heated safely is one of those little gismos that keep your mug of coffee warm. Hint: don't try to sip hot Sparex! -
Admiralty model query
druxey replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I assumed irregular curves, Roger, but for regular ones a spline or flexible curve will certainly do the job. -
Admiralty model query
druxey replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I've never seen a tutorial on this subject, so it's an interesting question. Some pointers: You need an adequate number of points plotted first. Fit a curve through the first three points and try to visualize how the line will extend to meet the next point or two. Fit a curve to the previous two points on the curve and the next point (or two). Continue through to the other end of the series of points and see if further smoothing is required. With some practice, this shouldn't be necessary. -
Congratulations on that finishing touch and completion of your model, Frank. An outstanding piece of work!
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You - and we - know the pins are correct beneath those belayed lines! Lovely pictures, Ed. Particularly the stern quarter shot (second one down).
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Hobby saw with larger table top
druxey replied to ONEVW's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ooh! Nice, Jim. For owners of the standard table, can this top be retrofitted? -
My head hurts from thinking about your level of OCD, Mark! I think, as long as you don't exceed any maximum quoted block size you should be fine. Think of it this way: Ship's carpenter: We need an 18" double aloft immediately. Bosun: I've got a 16" handy. Should do, eh? S.C. Yup. Cap'n'll never notice. B: Not up there, he won't. S.C. (Laughs.) And neither will Mark! (More raucous laughter.)
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If I may butt in - just scanning through the last number of posts - the 'angels' are not actually angels! They are representations of Fame blowing their trumpets. Much of this Rococo imagery has Classical allusions, such as the men with fish-tails blowing conch shells: these are Tritons, sons of Neptune, God of the Seas.
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