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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I find that the work does not 'catch' if the feed rate is kept down, the oscillating rate not too slow, and one exerts a downward pressure (with the hold-down removed). A new blade from time to time also helps!
  2. druxey
    The model that appeals to you the most!
  3. druxey
    Just found this thread. The quantity and quality of carved work on the gondola is amazing. Congratulations, Merchen. Wunderbar! Perhaps you would get more responses if you posted the pictures under the subject 'scratch built models' rather than 'organization of wood'.
  4. druxey
    Just found this thread. The quantity and quality of carved work on the gondola is amazing. Congratulations, Merchen. Wunderbar!
  5. druxey
    Kieth: by the time you are done with all those frames, you will be an expert in scroll-sawing!
  6. druxey
    Just 'whipped up a couple more' vents? You make it sound as easy as sharpening a pencil, Michael!
  7. druxey
    Very neatly done, Pat!
  8. druxey
    Your research and notes are very impressive, Woodeater. The detail photographs are excellent as well.
  9. druxey
    With that range of humidity, you would need both humidifier and dehumidifier, I'm afraid. It's a difficult situation you have in your cellar.
  10. druxey
    Welcome back, Kevin! Onward....
  11. druxey
    Sailing along there, Rob. Looking good.
  12. druxey
    Wood will move with humidity change, whether you try to stop it with glue, nails or screws. If the variation is large, then you need, as Y.T. suggests, try to lessen this by either humidifying or dehumidifying to even things out. Traditional cabinetmakers allowed for this by using 'floating' panels and joints that move with seasonal change. Even at model sizes wood will move, particularly across the grain, so use wood that had sat long enough to acclimatize in your local environment as well as control conditions.
  13. druxey
    Don't be too daunted by the idea of drafting and lofting, Bob. Broken down into a series of steps, it is quite do-able. While it's a lovely luxury to have all the equipment illustrated by Bob C, you can manage perfectly well with a set of compasses, a few inexpensive French curves and an 18" flexible curve. That's all I had when I first learned to draft and loft ships' lines.
  14. druxey
    Unfortunately, the flag is not the correct era for the ship! The model represents a ship from no earlier than the 1830's or '40's.
  15. druxey
    Truly impressive, Doris. How long does one of those take to construct?
  16. druxey
    Congrats, Dan! Looks very convincing. So, what can we expect next?
  17. druxey
    And from Niagara!
  18. druxey
    Interesting technique, Mark. Is this your own invention?
  19. druxey
    Another miniature masterpiece. Well done, Javier!
  20. druxey
    Very nice work so far.
  21. druxey
    I agree with Frankie: wire is easier to handle.
  22. druxey
    Just found your thread here, Jens: a nice project you have there!
  23. druxey
    Mark: what you are looking in that photo are the lower-edge hinged port lids, inboard of which are the various 'infernal devices' of a fireship. Close to the ports are chambers. These blow the lids open. On each side of the chamber are grenadoes that also explode. There are many other nasty contents to a fireship, but we digress....
  24. druxey
    Yes, but it's a bit fussy. A little dilute white glue helps retain the worm in the groove as one moves along the line. One only really needs to do this on large lines.
  25. druxey
    Actually, it is possible to get a clean edge on a outside corner. This is how: Use a flat brush and do not overload it. Brush in strokes at right angles to the edge from inside to out, over the edge. If you use a light touch, the edge will be perfect. Should a little paint get over the edge, let it dry completely. Then lightly scrape it off. (This works even more easily if the wood has been sealed before painting.)

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