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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    The pictures show that the last lap of the laniard is running up to the wrong place. It should run up behind the upper deadeye and thread out through the gap in the shroud just above the deadeye before wrapping around both legs of the shroud and tying off.
  2. druxey
    Looks terrific, Michael!
  3. druxey
    Interesting sheer plan and comments/quotes above, gentlemen. I assume the small rectangular shapes along the side above the wale are ventilation scuttles? If so, they seem to be placed tight against the deck level indicated. Is this correct? Usually they are lower, to clear the deck clamps.
  4. druxey
    Very cunning indeed, E&T!
  5. druxey
    Are you reeving the laniards in the right sequence? If they are on 'backwards', there will be the tendency to twist. (The twisting may well originate with the lay of the shroud above.)
  6. druxey
    Nicely done! By the way, 'ears' is the correct term for these small knees.
  7. druxey
    Most impressive miniature work, Greg.
  8. druxey
    Ingenious idea: peep-through holes in your weights!
  9. druxey
    I use a setup with a very small end mill to cut the scores for treads. Much less scary!
  10. druxey
    Moins que un demi-pouce? To that fine a tolerance? That is truly impressive, John!
  11. druxey
    Elegant but simple. Well done, Bill!
  12. druxey
    There is a small monograph on making realistic Silkspan sails on the SeaWatchBooks site. As Blue Ensign shows, the effect is very convincing.
  13. druxey
    You are very nudge-worthy and welcome, Alan!
  14. druxey
    Nicely done, Ed. How far apart are the treads in 'real size' inches?
  15. druxey
    Sweet, Michael!
  16. druxey
    That looks terrific, Michael!
  17. druxey
    There will also be 'guest ropes' to grab as you climb those steps. If you look at Chuck's version of the draught, you will see two stanchions for these ropes on either side of the steps.
  18. druxey
    There are no filler pieces for the hawse holes, Alan: the timbers themselves are wider and abut each other. The hawse pieces are cut away above and below to form the air spaces.
  19. druxey
    Lovely work and progress this week, as usual!
  20. druxey
    The last photo shows a withy-bound barrel (foreground).
  21. druxey
    Beautifully executed joinery, Karl.
  22. druxey
    I am fortunate enough to have one of the few surviving original first printing copies. Does this mean that I've got a valuable collector's item? Joking aside, my sympathies to Bob and Cathy for this unfortunate set-back. Hopefully all will work out with the insurers. For all that have not seen the book yet, it is beautifully produced, written and illustrated with photos of all the first and second rate models in the Rogers' Collection. Thoroughly recommended!
  23. druxey
    You would be amazed at the Unimat lathes and parts that appear on eBay. You could replace almost anything you need from that source.
  24. druxey
    I've used mine since 1970 and it's still a good workhorse.
  25. druxey
    Barehook is correct: the hoops were not of iron, but copper or of withy (wood).

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