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Everything posted by druxey
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Their Lordships at the Admiralty had a sense of humor - of sorts!
- 1,048 replies
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Much better, Gary! If you hadn't adjusted that, all the gallery work above would have been thrown off. Provided that all the work above is parallel to what you have now, all should be well.
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I'll be contrary: Black and red!
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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You make it look so easy, as if you installed these knees at a rate of two per minute!
- 3,596 replies
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- young america
- clipper
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Recommendations for soldering equipment
druxey replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
After you get used to a little more fussiness in preparing (such as fitting the faces of the pieces to be joined to each other) you will be amazed at the strength of a silver soldered joint vs a soft soldered one. It is well worth learning to silver solder. -
The rods of the lower deck pumps pass through the boxes of the middle deck pumps. Rhodings (bearings) would support the rods here. There would not be wheels inside the boxes at lower deck level. The normal drive mechanism would be under the hoods at middle deck level. The only difference between the 'short' and 'long' pumps would be the boxes with their discharge dales and longer chains of the latter.
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OK, I bite! There is one level of discharge - at lower deck level - for the one pair of pumps. It would be reasonable not to have to raise bilge water any higher than necessary to discharge it. The first deck above water level was the lower gun deck. Hence the cisterns and brakes (cranks) to work these pumps placed here. The other set of pump tubes continue one deck higher - the middle deck - to terminate at their upper end in the usual cisterns and cranks. However, on their way up, there are boxes at lower deck level that the chains pass through. This would allow water to discharge at this level as well. However, the pumps were worked one deck higher: more men could be employed on both set of pumps this way. Again, less effort would be required to raise water only as far as the lower deck level, rather than all the way up to the middle deck. Does this make sense?
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Cutting and fitting around those pump tubes is very tricky. Looking good so far!- 324 replies
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Hmm. You could either omit the knee altogether, or fit a knee that is sectioned (i.e. thin) that is cut flush to the end of the model. Does that make sense?- 324 replies
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
If I understand you correctly; the hanging knee (if you fit it) will fay flush over the inner planking, not interrupt it. Nice work on the carlings and ledges!- 324 replies
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The planking at the tuck looks much better now! Well done, Toni.
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Introduction of royal yards to the Royal Navy
druxey replied to Mark P's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Enjoy the Caird Library, Mark! -
Nice discussion, gentlemen! It's this kind of exchange that makes MSW a class act.
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- Sherbourne
- bobstay
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As she was a knock-about merchant ship, I doubt if she was actually painted at all!
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ancre Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
druxey replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Cats and models do not mix! Repeat this until either you or your cat understands.- 332 replies
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- le fleuron
- 64 gun
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If stropping a block to a yard, the strop is not continuous. It has a small loop or 'ear' at each end instead. These ears go around the yard and a lashing is made between the two ears to hold the assembly to the yard. Otherwise, the part around and below the block looks like the pictures that have been posted.
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