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Everything posted by druxey
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
druxey replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Welcome back, Doris, and congratulations on a stunning model! I'm sure many of us were wondering what and how you were doing. I hope your new work is satisfying and will allow you time to continue to create more outstanding models. Dobri!- 883 replies
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- royal caroline
- ship of the line
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Sorry, Robin: it is the lights that can be hinged up and aft for ventilation. The sections of the bulkhead would be struck for cable handling in this case. I apologize for any confusion.
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If it's 18th century you are after, the book suggested above is The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV, published by SeWatchBooks. That gives you all the detail you'll ever want for the period 1760 to about 1785.
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For cable handling, the bulkhead panels would be hinged up under the forecastle against the beams, Robin.
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Fiebing's Leather Dye
druxey replied to JohnB40's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Good advice, Pete, and very nice chairs! -
Today I made a Light (box) Stand
druxey replied to AON's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nicely done. I feel my own method much inferior now; I simply hold the pieces up to the window (daytime) or task light (night)! -
Nice looking bulkhead, Toni, although I was puzzled that you applied a comedian to both sides of the basswood. Perhaps you meant to type 'Castello'?
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I would think that deadlights that swing up would be more likely. The more elaborate hidden sliding versions would be for Admiral's quarters on a first rate!
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endeavour shrouds & ratlines (moved by admin)
druxey replied to geoff's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Interesting question. Steel (1794) states that the ratlines only go across every 6th lower shroud. However, contemporary models show all the ratlines going all the way across. -
Tom's idea is a good one, but I'd try this out on a sample of fabric before you make a whole suit of sails, just in case it doesn't work!
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Fastening of the false keel
druxey replied to dafi's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
While I'm sure that staple spacing was calculated using some proportional formula, Alex, the photos I was looking at showed much closer spacing than you suggest. -
Fastening of the false keel
druxey replied to dafi's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The photos seem to indicate a spacing of about 12", judged from the length of the staples. -
Fastening of the false keel
druxey replied to dafi's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Good question. I've not come across any specification, but think 18" to 24" would be reasonable. -
Your model is looking very good, Fam. Might I suggest you look at your lining out with the hull right way up? I found that things looked very good while the hull was upside down, but more adjustments were needed once I was looking at it as one would normally see the model. I like the method you are developing for scupper linings. However, as the holes come through at an angle, would the flared ends be more oval in shape than round?
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Lovely! But would she have had royal yards?
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Scratchbuilt Hull Decision
druxey replied to CDR_Ret's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Ah: thanks for the clarification, Terry. One composite method of forming the hull would be bulkheads with filler pieces between to form a solid landing for the planks. This would avoid flat spots. (see the Hohenzollern 1660 model thread by Mr. Hollum).
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