druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Good to read that the shipyard is back in business. Check the wet dock gates on the next spring tide! -
Taken in context, one can usually figure out the odd error.
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Terrific miniature metalwork on the chains and rhodings!
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Well overcome, Sal. See my PM to you.
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Excellent advice from Allan. If you can afford it, the Byrnes unit is the way to go.
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Well done on crossing the finishing line! That looks very nicely done indeed.
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- Harriet Lane
- Model Shipways
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Ideally acid-free rag paper would be the best option for frieze work. On old museum models you can see the 'laid' paper lines through the paint. Now, this may sound heretical, but I use regular 20lb paper. It is stretched like watercolor paper prior to painting using acrylics. As the front of the paper is sealed by paint and the back adhered with PVA, it is sealed from the atmosphere and is not likely to deteriorate. However, I'l let you know in 200 years.
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Welcome aboard, Dave. I have happy memories as a student, spending weekends in Suffolk. Ah, those were the days....
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I'm sorry to read that the model is too large to continue. The work you have done is first class, Karl.
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Coming along really nicely, Sal.
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So sorry to read of your calamity, Alan. I hope that you did not lose many things.
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Those waterway pieces are seriously impressive! Well done. Mark.
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Well done to get to the finish line, David - so many don't! One small suggestion: the ensign. Normally wind blows from aft, directing the flag forward. Also a natural fold would improve the look immensely. Just a suggestion - it's your model.
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- Victory
- Caldercraft
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Looking good, Eric.
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For painting frieze details you need to invest in top quality sable brushes. Try Winsor and Newton Series 9 or Rosemary & Co. Expensive? Yes, but properly cared for they will 'point' beautifully and last a lifetime.
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Very tricky work, very nicely accomplished!
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Good progress, Greg.
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HMS SUSSEX by KarenM - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Nice. Getting the lines not to torque is always a challenge! -
Mike: There are no contemporary draughts (I wish!), just a van de Velde painting, a copy of another van de Velde, now lost, and a v de V drawing of 'de fob'. There is also a contemporary model in private hands that is an 'Admiralty' style model that we have identified as Fubbs. The findings of the SYRG will get published, but the manuscript is still in preparation with no date yet set.
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- Fubbs
- Weasel Works
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For many years there has been confusion over the different versions of Fubbs. The one you show here is the 1724 rebuild, not the 1682 original Fubbs. The original had a straight cutwater, more vertical stern post and a taller, rounded tafferel. The inboard arrangements were very different than that of the rebuild. That the above statements are accurate is part of the result of several years research by the Stuart Yacht Research Group, a small international group of historians and model-makers of which I happen to be a member.
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- Fubbs
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The 'Ac' in PVAc stands for acetate and PVA for alcohol. I am unsure of the difference in the properties or pH of each, though. Perhaps someone else can inform us.
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It seems that smaller 17th century ships did not have pintle straps, but the inverted pintles were driven though the keel instead. Several contemporary models in the NMM show this feature. (The photo here is of my current model of 1682, following this design). Presumably earlier ships also were built this way.
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Longridge's book The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships has good plans by G.F. Campbell.
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