druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Such bumpkins can be seen rigged on Cutty Sark. I must say, when I first read the subject header, I thought this thread was about simple country folk and their partner-swapping habits.... -
ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
druxey replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Terrific work: definitely stupendo! -
My own take is that the cants did not cross the doorways, but I could be wrong. Nice going, Dan!
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Echo by jml1083 - cross-section
druxey replied to jml1083's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Truckin' right along there, Jim. Good stuff! -
Copper, bronze and brass. How to treat them.
druxey replied to Modeler12's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Thank you, gentlemen, for this interesting and informative discussion! -
Those carlings line up very nicely, Toni. Well done! One can't finish a fully framed model in weeks or months, unfortunately.... Good things take time.
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Ah! Contact cement is a very different beast from rubber cement. One can now get non-solvent based contact cement, I believe. Much safer and better for health and the environment. -
Well, Grant, it's your model and you have to be happy with how it looks. My opinion doesn't matter!
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Allan: higher up, it wasn't so critical as it was well above water level. The wale and side planking there extended aft past the planks of the counter.
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I agree that in model work that is the usual convention. However, in many real ships both the side and transom planks hooded into rabbets in the fashion piece (the curved timber that made the 'corner' of the stern). This was to avoid exposed end-grain, where moisture could wick in to the planks and start rot. I've done this the 'correct' way on a model and can state that it is a very tricky job! No wonder one doesn't see this on models.
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Bob: I use VM&P naphtha as rubber cement solvent, available from paint merchants. -
I agree with you, Kester, that this was sometimes done. Thanks for reminding me. However, on a model I would tone the blocks down from pure white anyway so that they would not jump out visually.
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Regardless of the wood used, the shade should not be too pale. Models with white or pale blocks look very distracting: they look like a snowstorm in the rigging to my eye.
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Jim: once you've made a successful cast timber, you won't look back. Except, perhaps, unless you make two right-hand ones instead of a left and a right pair! -
Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
A very nice, methodical approach, Bob! Looking good. -
I agree with Chazz' comments. The other advantage of a graver is that it is more rigid than, say, a micro chisel or gouge. The latter have long shafts and tend to flex in use.
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Nice shots of the model. Nice garden as well!
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Note that there are always a odd number of holes in the rim of the top, or reeving the line won't work out properly! One of these holes is always on the midline, of course.
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Also Admiralty Models sell some plans for scratch-built 18th century models. See www.admiraltymodels.com
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Exactly, Greg! -
Well played, sir!
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Looks like you're doing a nice job on your model, George. I assume the line is what was supplied with the kit. That is the problem, by the look of it. I can suggest three possible solutions. One, before you rig, take the length of line and stretch it under tension. This might 'set' it, so that it loses the tendency to twist. If the fibre is synthetic it will have a 'memory', so this may not work for you. Two, make your own rope from cotton thread. There are various simple ropewalk designs (probably you can find designs for them elsewhere on this site). It is not too difficult, and will supply stable line in different sizes as you need them. The raw materials are not expensive, either! My own ropewalk is made from an old electric drill and my childhood Meccano gears, among other ingredients. Three, there are companies that supply commercially made rope for model makers.
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This is an interesting project with a history! I'm looking forward as you continue to restore her, Russ.
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This is looking good, Joss!
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