Jump to content

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    12,930
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Volume IV of The Fully Framed Model details all this for you, if you have a copy.
  2. Allanyed's response is a good one. A very sharp pencil (hard lead is best) and accurate mark-out are the critical parts of the operation, as well as a sharp chisel. By the way 'scarph' is the correct spelling; 'scarf' is the thing you put around your neck to stay warm!
  3. Thanks for coming back, Doris. Your paper/card models are amazing.
  4. Well, you do have a strange idea of light entertainment, Michael! The extreme change in scale must be hard to wrap your head around. Both models are looking very nice indeed.
  5. Nothing is silly when it comes to the complexities of wooden shipbuilding. The octagonal space is the 'unfinished' partner, as you've stated. The finished one is very like your mock-up with the wedges made circular. I think you have it!
  6. That's an interesting degree of detail shown on your draught, Jim. Anchor chain, rather than cable?
  7. My understanding is that the octagonal space was cut back after assembly to become circular. The space between the partners' hole and the mast was filled with segmental wedges that were driven in. Once driven, the protruding ends of the wedges were cut and smoothed, then covered with a canvas 'boot'.
  8. I'm also enjoying this not-quite-instant replay!
  9. Those port sills are more complex than British style ones. And how many do you have to make? That's an impressive amount of work you have to do.
  10. I agree, Clay. There is always useful information to be gleaned from studying actual ships' draughts.
  11. Those are awkward customers to deal with, for sure. The jig holder is a great idea. If you make register marks across the holder for the scores, that will align them all properly.
  12. Very, very nice magazine area, Egan.
  13. Very impressive. The French certainly liked their officers to live in style!
  14. I find producing blocks on an 'as needed' basis, rather than all at once, works for me. Perhaps it's less efficient, but it's a lot less daunting that way.
  15. The most reliable way is to taper a square stick, plane it octagonal ('eight-square') then round it with sandpaper strips pulled back and forth around the diameter.
  16. Well, that's a nice workbench that you built, Mark. Particularly those long dovetails - sweet detail!
  17. I agree with Russ. Brass is soft enough to form easily around the deadeye after silver soldering. That way there will not be risk of a small fire!
  18. Those stern lights are beautifully done. I like the way you've also shown the sashes. Can you tell us a little more about your varnish technique for the glazing. Is it just held in place by surface tension when you apply it, or do you do this on a non-sticking surface?
  19. The low-tack frosted Scotch brand tape works really well for this method.
  20. If you glue the oversized sandpaper to the stick first (I use rubber cement), then cut the sandpaper to the edges of the stick, you will have 'safe' sides that won't mark the adjacent wood as you sand the chamfer.
  21. Scantling means the dimension or, in this case, thickness.
  22. Beautiful work. I was heart-stopped at your 'disaster' photos, but very glad that you had the patience and courage to start over again. Well done, Karl!
  23. It's like fast-forwarding a video through your build! Looking forward to future instalments.
×
×
  • Create New...