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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Jaager has a good point and it jogged my mind. Somewhere here, I remember seeing a build that used a drill to cut out the deadeyes. Ah.. found a couple: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/1005-la-belle-1624-by-cabrapente/?do=findComment&comment=18693 and here: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/410-hms-sphynx-by-alex-m-scale-148-english-20-gun-frigate-as-build-1775/?do=findComment&comment=10133 There's more, I used keywords "deadeye making" not as a phrase. But the others I looked at pretty much do the same. There's others that use the same technique of basically making a cutting tool that cuts out a length from a block of wood then they put it on lathe and shape and then cut free.
  2. Are you notching the keel or the bottom of the frame? If not, will be putting a wooden peg through the frame to the keel? I'm wondering about strength if relying only on glue.
  3. I'm going to suggest you read the planking tutorials pinned at the top if this sub-forum. It'll save you a lot of problems on your next ship. As for this one.. looks good. A little sanding and she'll be good.
  4. In case anyone missed it, there's a Flickr link at the bottom of their page which has tons more photos.
  5. Welcome to MSW, Al. MSW is a great resource for any info you need.
  6. Depending on the country, commas are used instead of decimal points. And I have no idea why.
  7. The easiest way for brass would be to blacken it by using Birchwood Casey Brass Black. Many gunshops carry it as well as getting it online.
  8. I think you're right.. lower right hand corner. Time to get the band going.
  9. Good start on the whaler. As for the Constellatoin.... all I can say is "yikes! you have your work cut out for you.".
  10. That would a really tough one to do as manufacturers don't stay with on scale. So you would basically have to go through each site.
  11. Just amazing models. Thanks for the link.
  12. Paul, I'm being cautious here, but can do the shrouds before the yards. On a cross section, you'll have plenty of room to the yards and rigging for them On full hull, think about 30 steps ahead as you'll have to reach through the shrouds or around them to do the rigging. You may want to hold on the ratlines until the yards and rigging are installed.
  13. Looks like the greenies were around back then.
  14. Welcome to MSW, Krzysztof.
  15. Thanks for the likes. Update.. sanding is done though I will recheck everything before planking. Next is to set it upright and work on the gundeck by adding some decking and framing in the bulwarks, gun ports, and stern. Not necessarily in that order. I happy to be done with the balsa... miserable sawdust it makes. I'll clean up the shop in the morning. Here's photos.
  16. We'll just leave them here. I can't move OC's post.
  17. No rush, Hamilton. Life does come first as this is only a hobby. It could be that you have a bit of burnout so switching back and forth on models might help with that. Stay safe from the virus.
  18. Hi Sparky, welcome to MSW. Give some thought to opening a log in the Scratch area if you decide to restore it. People will follow along and offer advice, etc.
  19. A additional thought on this. Were the bulkheads a tight fit or an easy fit? Being a tight fit can warp a keel. The other advice is all good so test until you find one that works for you.
  20. So just the cockpit is a flight simulator? Works for me. I did a number of manuals back in the day for real simulators that weren't much more than that. But did some with full blown graphics and hydraulics to give a sense of movement.
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