Jump to content

mtaylor

Moderators
  • Posts

    25,994
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. You really should give some thought to opening a log for this crane in the Non-Ship Model area in the Shore Leave. Looks interesting. And good wishes that you have success with the weathering.
  2. Translation to English for the text at the top of Black Wolf's last post: Thanking friends for their appreciation and visit in the wip, I finished updating with the latest images of the MS, as previously shown, I treated straws with straw-colored oil, even if the details are still missing, the straw color oil allows to recover the "stress" of the fibers of the wood derived from the various previous processes by giving essences a softer and honeyed appearance, the walnut takes on a darker shade (probably the natural reaction of the tannin) the cherry is another shade " honey "surely, in both the external fibers" they soften ", if the parts are passed with an old woolen cloth, the surface is polished to satin, that is to say the effect is very beautiful and gives the wood a particular view, there are no problems with the gluing of other pieces of wood on the treated surfaces, over time, being a light treatment loses the polishing characteristics, the only flaw is that it is more ppropriato for the treatment of antique furniture that has a naval model if the intent is to reproduce naturally as it should have been, certainly the exposure to atmospheric agents and the rooms created in "fast" times very different conditions from those obtained with straw oil, however the eye wants its part,
  3. I cheat a bit with rigging. After lines are in place and properly tensioned, I coat them lightly with a 50-50 mix of white glue and water. Outside of re-working the rigging, try what Gregory suggested. One question.... Is the model in "controlled environment"? Humidity usually causes this and we've seen issues with rigging loosening and then tightening as the humidity changes. But that's for cotton.
  4. Can you give us some help? What model is a Billings II #600? Actually, depending on the scale, a plank 3mm X 0.5mm could be about right.
  5. Here ya' go Denis. Some light reading relating to your build. https://warfarehistorynetwork.com/daily/civil-war/james-andrews-vs-william-fuller-in-the-great-locomotive-chase/
  6. Thanks for the likes and comments. Time for a proof of life update. Life has gotten quite a bit quieter lately, which is good. So I focused on these little boats. The barge (the middle sized one) jig went well and so deciding to be bold and do both at the same time, I started on the cutter jig. Hmm... not so good. It's smaller and everything is proportionally more fragile. So.... spent a lot of time remake parts that I broke in the fitting. I solved the breakage problem by reducing down the laser marking in thickness and expanding the "bits" that hold the pieces together. Ended up coating many of them with 2 coats of white glue and water. Seems to work and tests say I'll be able to snap those naughty bits on the lines without damage. The jigs are built, the keels installed with few other necessary bits and pieces and I'm ready to start actually building the boats. So, I'm off to fix the ribs and start planking. Here's a photo of the jigs and the larger boat (finished). The Longboat (finished) is 6 inches long (152.4mm), the barge is 5 inches (127mm), and the cutter is 4 inches (101.6mm) long.
  7. Nicolas, Did you miss this part of the download for the dimensions: As for the rigging, I'm not sure where to look for that as I've not built an English frigate.
  8. Sorry, missed that part. BTW, try sending Frank a PM. I see that he was last on this week.
  9. Everyone's given you great advice. I will re-enforce what's been said about the Chinese kits.. many are pirated kits and would not be allowed here. So, look around site, there's plenty of tutorials in the various forums to help, and start a big log when you're ready.
  10. What I see is that there's a raised platform and and what looks to be another one more forward but on the top view it doesn't show. This is the cutter (a ship's boat) right? Are there any other drawings of these areas? I don't have this monograph to check but I did some logs which I linked to below. There's several others but these two are still in work. Have look here: And here:
  11. Hi Adrian, Welcome to MSW. Once you get settled, a good place to put a link to them is here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/4-nautical-general-discussion/
  12. The answer is yes, ships were painted back then. Look at the Vasa for example. Edit: Painting of ships go back to the earliest times in history. Eygptian, Greek do seem the earliest found but from tomb painting, possibly a lot earlier. As for the Mayflower... yes.
  13. Are you doing this on wood or plastic? Painted or natural wood? If painted, have a look in Kit area for plastic builds by RGL and some of the newer logs for WWII, WWI ships. RGL and some of the others have definitely got the art of "grunch" mastered. I'd think that some of those techniques would also apply to wood.
  14. I'm not sure where I saw it, but one our builds someone tried foam. It didnt' end well as I recall.
  15. Looks good from here. Both the build and the picture placements As for the positing issue, are you uploading all your pictures first? Then move the cursor where you want the photo and move the mouse down to the photo that needs inserting there. Once there, move the mouse to the lower left of the thumbnail and click on the "+".
  16. Derek, This might be of value then: Byrnes Saw Operation.pdf The source of blades for this guide recently shut down, but there are others out there. It has lots of great tips.
  17. Ah, ok. In the 50's? I did have some brain faid. Carbs it is then. I just remember what I saw in the late 60's/early 70's.
  18. Beautiful, I love it. This is at the "new" place right? I daresay you have been busy.
  19. It might be age also. Some hobby shops don't sell much and it sits in a warehouse or even in the store for quite awhile. But, as Chris said, go with something harder, boxwood is the best but pear is also good.
×
×
  • Create New...