mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Hello all and already looking for help
mtaylor replied to Signode388's topic in New member Introductions
I can't speak for others, but I never use just sandpaper and fingers. I use sanding blocks from a beauty supply house, or rubber cement some to a piece of scrap wood wherein the shape I need to sand is roughly carved/sanded on the scrap wood before gluing on the paper. My rule of thumb is the roughest I go is 100 grit, medium is around 200-300, fine is 400 and over. But then, I don't keep a lot of different sizes as stock. Size of mini files... length? Width? Number of teeth per inch? Depends on the manufacturer really. Usually they tell you how long it is overall and maybe some generic fine, medium, etc. for the teeth. There are some that usually come from China that so miss shaped that they're unusable (looked like the metal was still too soft when they cut the teeth and were bent and distorted) even if the picture looked nice. I bought to sets on Ebay and ended up just tossing them in the trash as it was too much money to send them back. -
I'm with the others, Chris. It looks great. I had to go back and look at the title to see that it was/is a card model.
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The vac hose in chrome would be great. Maybe add a zoomie strip. Seriously nice improvements, Alan.
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Hello all and already looking for help
mtaylor replied to Signode388's topic in New member Introductions
Ah, the downside (if there is one to this hobby), becoming a toolholic. I started simply also Now I have one room filled with goodies.... be afraid, be very afraid as it is contagious. I must be doing better though as I haven't bought any new tools in a couple of years. -
cutting out the gunports
mtaylor replied to ronald305's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Other than to open each port while planking, the only other way I've seen or heard about is to use a Dremel (or similar) with a small bit and drill the opening by making a lot (the more the better) of holes just to the inside of the port. Then use your knife, small saw to shape the port. It is a time consuming process but not nearly as bad as tying ratlines. . -
Tung Oil "Experiment"
mtaylor replied to knightyo's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I'm liking that Toni, not for the fire but for the message it sends. Any oil, motor, tung, etc. on a rag is a fire hazard. -
Hello all and already looking for help
mtaylor replied to Signode388's topic in New member Introductions
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That does resemble something like a Star Destroyer from Star Wars. I wonder if that was the intention or influence? Nice work all around her, Patrick.
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Looking at the pictures of the last couple days, it's really hard to remember this started as a solid block of wood. Impressive.
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Do you have any machine tools such as a mill? There's lots of different methods with Russ's being one of the better ones for doing it.
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Plank length for longboats
mtaylor replied to tkay11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Tony, It's all a learning curve. You will probably get good feedback and help and also anyone else who decides to build her will have a reference. I do see two builds logs and also a photo gallery of the build is this is any help. -
On kits, they usually don't have instructions or even mention the rabbet. So usually what you do is bevel the edge against the keel for a good fit and the finished planking will look like it's in a rabbet. Many do add filler blocks between bulkheads. Question? Why is it too late to add the rabbet? It only runs along the keel. The rudder post is usually carved out such that the planks land just a tad above the side of the rudder post and then sanded down to the rudder. I suggest you start a build log so we can follow along and help a bit better.
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It's more of a holiday season than a holiday like you Brits use the term.
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That's over across the pond where you are. Our (US) holiday kicks off on the Thanksgiving (our annual day of gluttony). The day after is known as Black Friday where stores do special sales to suck in the customers. The the madness continues until the 25th. On the 26th, the stores are again packed, this time with exchanges and returns and also low prices on Christmas supplies to be tucked away until next year such as wrapping paper, decorations, etc. Ho-Ho-Ho.
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Slap some tinsel on the build table, hang an ornament on some rigging or over the table. Sing Christmas carols while you're at the bench. Oh... and wrap some parts in appropriate paper. Job done.
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The only way I see to increase production is to get a bigger table. I'll get my coat and go quietly.....
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German WW2 Armor - Plastic kits plus trains cars n scifi
mtaylor replied to nikbud's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Money has affected just about every sport and motorsports are no exception. Here in the US Indy Car Racing used to be just basically the Indy 500 and some regional races up until around the late '60's then the big dollars and sponsorships came in. The little guys who fought hard to race were pushed out. I'm waxing nostalchic as I remember the Offenhauser's roar and the always feisty but never winning Granatelli Novi's and their 4 wheel drive. The turbine cars, and then the Lotus entries. After that.. meh.... -
I'd say a food mixer might not be the best idea. The two blades intersect in the middle and offen run pretty close to the "bowl" and the blades are rigid. Most of the tumblers (see above photos) just use sandpaper. But give it a try. It might just work.
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German WW2 Armor - Plastic kits plus trains cars n scifi
mtaylor replied to nikbud's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
As I recall, part of the reason Ford stopped winning was that they pulled out of sponsorship for many Ford teams, except maybe NASCAR. The bean counters were running amok around that time and cutting costs where ever they could. The downside is they lost some market share that racing was bringing to them. -
Have a look at Crown Timberyard (https://www.crowntimberyard.com/) boxwood, maple. Syren (https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/milled-lumber.php#!/Precision-Milled-Wood-Sheets-from-the-Syren-Woodshed/c/28580533/offset=21&sort=normal) for yellow cedar and boxwood. There's also this link which may help (the top 3 pinned posts: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/20-wood-discussion/ I don't know who among these would have pre-milled wood, though. Plus the woods that are available change regularly.
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