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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    The large one (on the gun deck) was for anchor handling and when set up with the proper blocks, could handle the heavier lines on the main mast including the braces that came in through the side of the ship. I'm also of the belief that it was also used in handling the ships boats. The "small one" was for handling lines on the foremast, possibly assisting with anchor and ship's boat handling as well as the loading of ship's stores. Just curious.. are you doing a build log of her? I'd like to see it.
  2. mtaylor
    I use one of two things... either a 50/50 mix of water and white glue with sanding dust to make a slurry or final finish (Wipe On Poly) and sanding dust. Just put the mix in the gap and continue sanding. Seems to work for me.
  3. mtaylor
    Sweet!!!!!!!!
  4. mtaylor
    Lovely work, Per.. and yes... more photos....!!!!!!
  5. mtaylor
    Take care of yourself first, OC. The model can wait.
  6. mtaylor
    Lovely metalwork, Keith.
  7. mtaylor
    There's a lot of discussion on how to do these things here:
  8. mtaylor
    Steve.... bummer on the no insert. Hopefully what I posted will help someone else.
  9. mtaylor
    Model Expo used to sell that book, Cristos. I've also seen it on Amazon. Or go to the top of this planking forum and look at the pinned topics on planking. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ There's also a tutorial here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php
  10. mtaylor
    Steve, go the easy way... find a piece of wood or plastic (I have heard of someone using aluminum but not seen it) and make a zero-clearance insert. Cut to fit the blade opening and then just run the blade up through the wood. See picture. I've modified mine and currently it has numerous holes drilled in it. The new shop vac was sucking the insert into the saw and holes relieve the air pressure as well as providing additional dust removal.
  11. mtaylor
    I'm curious... can the Journal be sent to members overseas as a PDF? Or even stateside? Maybe reduce the dues a bit? By PDF via email it would solve some the delivery problems we've read about like for some, it takes a couple of months to get it to them.
  12. mtaylor
    Hello George,
  13. mtaylor
    Welcome back home, Michel. New paint, a bit of re-decorating here, but it's still home and glad to see you back.
  14. mtaylor
    Impressive build, and the lighting really makes the eyes "pop".
  15. mtaylor
    Looks fantastic, Per.
  16. mtaylor
    Holy cow.... mind-boggling to say the least. One never thinks of bigger models need a lot bigger wood...
  17. mtaylor
    It's great to see you back, Walter. You've been through hell, my friend, I hope things hit some normalcy now.
  18. mtaylor
    Allergies and wood seem to go together. The best advice was above: Wear a face mask to filter the dust (paraphrased). Ebony is nasty but boxwood has issues also. Dust by itself is bad for your lungs. If you've applied paint or a finish to the wood and then need to re-sand it.. definitely wear a mask. Also.. any nut wood can induce serious problems if you are allergic to nuts. Walnut comes to mind but there's others also.
  19. mtaylor
    I guess the good thing is, that we can only delete topics we start ourselves otherwise mayhem could occur. Thanks for that delete button for posts. Oh... cool.. I found the delete for PM's.
  20. mtaylor
  21. mtaylor
    Beautiful work, John. I think the museum would be crazy to pass this up.
  22. mtaylor
    Wonderful, Igor. Congratulations on Lena!
  23. mtaylor
    That's true on frigates, 74's, etc. The problem with cutters is room at the bow. Looking at most them, I'm not sure a gun could even be moved into position, much less fired.
  24. mtaylor
    Have look here as there's some diagrams on this.
  25. mtaylor
    Good choice of models, Phil. There's plenty of builds of this boat and I'm sure you'll have lots of eyes to help.

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