mtaylor

Manual?? Do you need a set? A translation? Your post tells us nothing about what you are looking for.

It's practically impossible to convert a wood lathe to metal due to the pieces needed probably would necessitate the bed being replaced. And there's the motor speeds...

Lovely work, Sean. And wood choices look good.

The tutorials Grant mentioned are here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ The first two pinned topics. There's also one here that's much simplified: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ The database of articles has a lot of great info it.

That is a sweet looking boat, Giampiero. Maybe I missed it but how many ship's boats will you make?

That could probably be done with the right equipment. There are bespoke cutting service out there that have the equipment. Probably, one would have to design, send the prints out for cutting some samples, and then give notice they're taking orders. If you get some made for yourself, pop a notice in the trader's forum and see where it goes.

Hi Dan,

Nice work. So much for rules, right?

Interesting idea. Most use balsa and then paint it with a 50/50 mix of water and white glue to harden it. The problem with laser cutting would be the thickness and type of the wood as lasers are limited in that respect. It would be great if the manufacturers would increase the number of bulkheads but we know that won't happen. I think there are some out there who do include some bread and butter type of bow and stern fillers that still need be faired. I've not tried anything like plywood or MDF on my machine yet... nor have I done any pieces over 6" long by 3" wide yet. So I'm not an expert. Check around your area for someone with a cutter like a trophy company, engraving company. They usually have some pretty powerful machines that might be able to do it. I think Dave at the Lumberyard has access to a 100W machine which might be able to do something like that but what the cost would be for one-of's I have no idea.

Lovely work on the lights, Kees.

Hi Daniele,

That appears to be the armed boat used by the army. It had a cannon, as I recall and was used to ferry troops across rivers and also land them from transport ships. It's bigger than a ship's boat and also much later (1834) than the L'Amarante (1749)

Thanks for looking in. So far, so good on planking. This Deathstar II, Rev2. I think. Ah.. just call it Deathstar III. I've got one pesky setting that won't stay in place on a mirror adjustment. Considering my options.... Locktite, epoxy, or weld it. Jason, Here's a couple of screen shots that might help. The first is complete drawing (as of today) with all the layers of which there are 10. I started with a scanned image of the deck, then added reference lines (red and blue). Then each part of the deck got it's own layer so I could lock it and turn it on or off as needed. The red tick marks off the vertical lines is where the planks cross the beams (actual measurements). I started in the center and worked both ways by copy/pasting the original set of marks and then adjusting the size to fit the space (scaled them). So far, so good. It seems to be working. This is a computer variation of the planking fan that Chuck uses in his planking methods. This shot is of the cutting layers for the plankings.... Any questions, feel free to ask.

What Carl said... we want to see these beauties...

Looks great from here, Greg.

Thanks Dan. I'm looking forward to it also. Worse case is that rip up the deck and cut the planks using a scroll saw... a bit tedious to say the least but doable.

Rich, Can you preshape them a bit? Maybe put them in place and mark with a pencil the approximate edges (inner and outer) then cut or shape off ship? I'd leave some meat on them just to be sure you don't go too far with the shaping.

Thanks for the comments and the "likes". Life and other things continues to take my shipyard time..... So.. some replies first, update next. Eric, I was tech writer for 25 years in a previous life (the one before I went into IT work)... I still get caught on such stuff. I did some manuals in my previous life for equipment used by the Brits. I had to learn a whole new language for them. I believe (and am probably wrong) that it was Winston Churchill who said "We're two countries, separated by a common language". After sorting out how the deck was planked by referencing other French frigates as much as I could, used the cross-section drawing as my baseline. Licorne is definitely an oddball in this regard. The references show the traditional planking that follows the waterway and tapers. Some use nibbing at the bow, some use hook scarfs. Others... nada. Towards the stern... there's where I ran into headaches. Some use drop planks, some don't. Some have parquet floors in the great cabin. Some don't. So.. decision time. I went with the spirit of the beast. No drop planks, no scarfs or nibbing at the bow, There's two wide planks thicker than the rest at the waterway.. much like binding strakes. Then theres 3 stakes of "normal planks", a very wide binding strake, and 5 "normal planks. None of the works showed hook scarfs in the binding strakes like the English used.. So.. I'm going with what I have. I began by doing a reference drawing (actually reworking what I had done already) with actual dimensions to account for errors in building with respect to width of the area to be planked and beam placement. I then added tic marks along the centerline of each beam for the plankwidth starting at the 0 station line (dead flat, widest point) and scaled them to both the stern and the bow. Next came drawing in the planks. The cutting part was the easy part and am now installing the aft planking first. The first picture shows the result of this work in the great cabin aft of the mizzen mast. The drawings and cuttings were tweaked to account for the kerf of the laser. Also, the planking that showing is actually the bottom side of the sheet. Given the way the kerf is, this provided a natural beveling. I lightly sanded the char but didn't remove all of it as a) there's little glue used on the edge of the plank and it gives a nice (to my eye) simulation of caulking. There's also another plank laying on the beams ready for installation. The second photo merely shows the planks cut and still held in place in the sheet stock. These planks are from where the existing planking is to the waterway. I left a bit of extra meat on the outside plank goes by the waterway for fitting. I'm having a lot of fun with this once I figure out what needs to be done. The "how" is just as important as the "what" in this case. Frustrating at times, but very satisfying when it comes together. As always, feel free to point out errors, misadventures, etc. This is pretty much virgin territory for me...

Impressive work, Carl. Patience grasshopper... patience is the key.

Just amazing work, Ken. The helmet and breastplate look full-size.

I wish there was a "love it" button. Just a "like" isn't enough.

Reider, Have look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6207-greek-bireme-by-bensid54-radio/

Just no words, Gatean. Everyone else has said it all. Your work is beyond us mere mortals. As for the next build, I trust you'll just follow your heart and build a ship you love.

There is the Loom-a-Line tool.. which is considered a waste of money. The biggest problem with looming is getting everything in the right place including deadeyes, etc. I did a Heller Vic with their loom. Ended up tossing it as it was more trouble than it was worth and doing the shrouds and rats on ship.

I'll play Devil's Advocate here.. I've found it's easier for me to hold off on the ratlines as long as possible as many times it's easier to connect up the running rigging by reaching with my tools through the shrouds. Ratlines would prevent that. That being said.... whatever way you think will work best for you is the way to go.