mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Jay, Did you do the batten step of the planking tutorials? That step is pretty necessary to get the line and flow of the planking. Looks like you went a bit too far, too fast on the tapering.. maybe pull off the last two strakes and run some batten and go from there. Or..... accept that this is the first planking layer and go all out on the second layer.
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- lady nelson
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That's a major milestone, Bug. I love it and the great way you did the anchors.
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- confederacy
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Ken, I do hope the power guy shows up. I imagine they're pretty stretched to the max with this storm.
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Max, How small do you want to go on the mills? For real tiny mills, look on EBay for dental burrs.
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You're taking the brunt of this storm, Ken. We'll see the outskirts of it up here. Stay safe. Dirty Dozen looks great and those two figures just bring her to life. The diver might have had a knife just "because", but for abalone, they pop off the rocks, etc. pretty easily. We used to snorkel off the coast in 20-30 foot deep water when I was stationed at Santa Ana and find abalone on the rocks on the bottom.
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Buy what thing? I'm cleaning and sorting out so small planking problems. just fussing about and not 100% focused.
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Rob, Your sails look very convincing... and these are just tests? I can't wait to see what the real deal looks like.
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I'm beginning to think this isn't a "model" but something full size. Amazing work.
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Sweet work, indeed. The carvings really look excellent.
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No problem. Moving this to better forum like the Framing area would probably get more eyes and ideas. I'm still fussing in the shop so nothing to report.
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I can't help on sizes... but for buying, there's a bunch of companies listed on the main page as sponsors. Ages of Sail, Syren Model Ship Company, Blue Jacket and Model Expo for starters. Some of the others might have line, but I don't know for certain. Google "model ship rigging line buy" (without the quotes and you'll get hits.
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Introducing myself and already seeking advice
mtaylor replied to kdm's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Keith, -
Hello Bjørnar,
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Just "wow!". The details are amazing.
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Michael Mott Designed Third Hand
mtaylor replied to BANYAN's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Wow... I hope either he or he'll find someone to market these.... Very impressive bit of kit. -
Sweet work, Matt. Those details are eye-poppers and put life in her.
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Good question Dave. Some where hinged and swung up to the beams, others taken apart and sent below. Depends on the ship. I do know the guy to ask though... Henry..(popeye2sea).
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I got to ask.. Roman.. are you ok? I'm curious but not frantic yet. I ordered last Wednesday, sent a follow up email about a mistake on my order. I've heard nothing back yet except the receipt for my order and from Paypal on the payment being made?
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Books for historic rigging reference
mtaylor replied to pshrynk's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
pshrynk, You might have a look at this then: http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/textbook-of-seamanship/ There's been others along this line. I found this link with references: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14630-furled-sails/?p=459617 Some of these are (again, as i recal) available online. -
Rikon 70-100 woodworking mini-lathe
mtaylor replied to Haliburton's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I wasn't aware of the Taig being able to do that. My apologies. There's a lot of 9 or 50 in one (some such number) types of power tools coming in China that don't do any one job well. Others, well made, etc. don't offer that option. That's seriously good news about the Taig lathe. -
Good questions... I cut a 1" square in each thickness (and type) of the wood I'm using. I then measure the kerf using the hole and the cutout piece. Close counts and still end up sanding to fit. As for that taper... in this case, I'm cutting the planks upside down. When I flip them over to install, the taper works to my advantage on the curve of the deck. The one thing I did do was change out my lens from a 2" focal point to the 2.5" focal point. Less taper. If 3" focal point lens ever becomes available, I'll try it. The beam comes out of the tube, and bangs off the mirrors and actually widens a bit (not much but the brains who know this stuff tell me it happens). Leaving the lens the beam goes V-shaped to the focal point. Thus the shorter the focal point, the wider the taper. The longer, the narrower the taper. Also, set the focus point halfway through the wood. It makes the kerf a tad wider but also reduces the taper by burning more of the material at the bottom of the cut. No matter what we do, there's still some finish sanding to get things to fit and be square.
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Dave, You have to remember that the bulkhead would be removed when they cleared for action. So it wouldn't be in the way in combat. And yeah.. a serious bash like you're doing will pop up some these types of things. Been there, done that, turned the air blue.
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