mtaylor
-
Posts
26,273 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by mtaylor
-
Proposed purchases to start my first wood kit
mtaylor replied to BobSki's topic in Wood ship model kits
Bob, Go for the PVA (carpenter's or wood glue) for your model. If you make a mistake, isopropyl alcohol (90%) will separate the joint. Any CA based glue needs acetone to break the bond and acetone is nasty stuff (fire and health, both) to use. -
I find it helpful when doing lines on the mast/yard off ship to coil them and mark them with an identifier using paper tape. Otherwise, at some point, you'll sit there scratching your head, going... "What is this? Where does it go?". .
-
Per, You might try asking this in the Research area. I've kinda' vague one how this all was actually accomplished since ship anchors were quite heavy. There was something I read somewhere about using the longboat to also retrieve anchors if the line was cut. Using the bouy got to the anchor and the grapple and windlass would have been used to retrieve it. The windlasses were removeable as I recall, so it's coming down to Captain's Choice, I think. But do ask it in Research. I'm curious about the answers.
- 335 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- 18th century longboat
- Finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Per, They seem to have had it and I don't think Chuck would have included it otherwise. There's logs where the ship's boat took the ship's anchor out and dropped it so the ship could use it's capstan and move. Yet, it still does seem strange though, doesn't it?
- 335 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- 18th century longboat
- Finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Tom, I'd bend the sails to the yards first before hang the yards, but that's me. There are ways to billow the sails before mounting which seems to work. The more you can do off ship before stepping the masts or (in your case) attaching the yards, the easier it will be.
-
Micro-Mark MicroLux LaserKnife 2525 – A Review
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
John, Well someone had to be the damned fool... It was my turn I guess. As I explained earlier, I have the scroll saw, but given some eye problems, my scroll saw skills suck. The machine is working for what I wanted it for, now inspite of the problems (solved) and the learning curve. It won't do everything like thicker wood yet, but it will when I finally pull the trigger for some 3rd party upgrades. It's no worse than someone doing a CNC mill or CNC lathe. It does shine on multiple pieces of the same part. As I've said before, "is it for everyone? NO!". Nor will I recommend that anyone go buy tech. -
Tom, I understand that frustration... It is frustrating to get moving along on a kit and find out that they shorted you on parts. On my Constellation, when I got the kit, I opened the box, drooled. took a deep breath and started inventorying. The kit was advertised as having a display board and stanchions... nope. Not there. I got a hold of the people who sold it to my and they, in turn, contacted AL. Got the stanchions but never got the display board. Also found I was missing the walnut second planking strips. AL did send a complete bundle of strips (not just the walnut). Sloppy quality control, but good customer service. This was some years ago so I don't know if contacting them on the missing bits would help.
-
Stunning work, Mobbsie. Your use of woods and natural colors is wonderful to the eyes.
- 255 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- granado
- bomb ketch
- (and 2 more)
-
Proposed purchases to start my first wood kit
mtaylor replied to BobSki's topic in Wood ship model kits
I find it's not "patience" but "determination and focus" that gets me through. Being stubborn about some things is a good trait. At least that's what I tell the Admiral. -
Mayhoo, The guns only on the gundeck would have been shifted and usually not from bow to stern but from the closest gunports. For the forecastle and quarterdeck, no such luck as the gangways wouldn't handle the weight. I'd suggest just leave it as it is as the quarterdeck shifting of the last two guns would indeed crowd things a bit.
- 188 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- surprise
- artesania latina
- (and 1 more)
-
Phil, What Jan said about the balsa is good info. Most hobby type places sell sheet basswood which would work better.
-
ancre Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Wow is a good choice to describe this. Make that a double wow!- 332 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- le fleuron
- 64 gun
- (and 1 more)
-
Giorgio, I think either way will look great. I'm partial to natural wood, but that's just my personal preference. Painting would look very good also.
-
It also looks like there's a few steel beams and frames... although those might just be jigs.
-
Allan, You're right.. the setup on a mill is a pain. However, it does make things repeatable. So if you're doing several scarf joints or any other work that needs be identical (or nearly identical... I'm not good enough to get exact yet) then a mill will help. Still... there's something to be said for doing things by hand and I'm sometimes sitting indecisively between either method.
-
The bright side about photography today is it's digital. You can shot 100's of photos for that one shot and not feel bad. Back when I was doing it semi-professionally (drag race photog...) it was film. Spend two nights processing just the color negatives from a Saturday night shoot or a Sunday shoot then spend the rest of the week to pick and print only the good ones. With digital, there's not that big chunk of time in the dark or costs anymore. I'm not the best when it comes to this hobby (ship models) but it's part of the fun.
-
Excellent link Lehmann. Thanks. I'll add the link for the linen threads: http://www.threadneedlestreet.com/linbody.htm and the PDF link is down the page a bit just before the DMC thread listing. It took a bit of digging to find it so.... save you all a bit of time.
-
It's good to see you back and that you had a great summer. The guns look great as do the bees.
-
Steve, The engine looks good. As for the pictures.. after uploading them (use Attach This File) , if you hit the "Add to Post" on each in the order you want them that will set them in the proper order. In other words, if you want the third one showing in the thumbnails to be first, click the "Add" on that one first.
- 208 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- john cudahy
- finished
- (and 1 more)
-
Micro-Mark MicroLux LaserKnife 2525 – A Review
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Excellent feedback and news, Debbie. I'm tickled that the second generation is working for you. I know it's been a hair-puller for you and Charles on this. I've been following along with Debbie and Charles on this journey and I will note that MM has updated their manuals which, if available, would have solved most of my issues. The hobby market is maturing so who knows where we'll be in a few years. After my teething problems which are normal for any early adapter, it's working as I expected. As a side note, I will more than likely upgrade to an aftermarket laser tube for more power to able to cut the wood (3/16" and 1/4" boxwood in one pass) that I'm thinking of using for my next build. It seems doable from the research and will take some modification (can't I ever leave anything stock? ) to fit the tube.- 82 replies
-
- 10
-
-
striping the planks
mtaylor replied to kier's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Kier, Have a look at this post: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/439-planking-tutorials/ Check out the tutorial by Chuck as it is excellent and profusely illustrated. There's a lot of ways to spile... some mark and use a scroll saw, others heat and edge bend, others sandpaper. It'll take some experimentation to figure out what's best for you. -
Nicely done on the wale, Jason.
-
Here's one I've used for roughing in hawse timbers and fillers. It's basically a dremel felt disk with some sandpaper on it. I use it like a rotary sander. Just go slow and light as it really chews off the wood. I also use it for the first sanding of decks.
-
From experience and I'm still learning... I'm not there yet, but getting there... Ok... so much for the personal disclaimer. No dremels on joints, ever! I use files and even then have to gauge. Just a stroke or two at a time and keep offering it up to check. If I can, I will use a disk sander but it's only to get close. Files finish the job. Sanding sticks can work, but are not as precise as files. A scroll saw can get you close. From what your wrote it sounds like you're using a spiral blade. Don't. Use a flat one with appropriate tooth count. I like the reverse tooth as they don't splinter the wood on the bottom of the cut. Just leave lots of meat to final fit. Rather than a scroll saw, use chisels to cut the scarfs. I haven't got this one figured out and am still working on technique but a lot the builders use them. Gives a clean and precise cut when done right. Lastly, practice, practice, practice. Use scrap wood of course but the more you do something, the better you become. I hope this helps.
- 15 replies
-
- 15
-
Our Emblem ®
